kryton brown

No, not with those symptoms. I have never seen an immobiliser shut a car down once it has started nor make it lose power or falter. when it shut down, you said it had no spark. You also said in a previous post that the problem also affected the tacho. I have seen this symptom when an ignition module is breaking down. Pull the distributor out and pull it apart and inspect the coil for any burn marks or hot spots and have it bench tested, i have seen these give trouble from time to time. All the symptoms you describe point directly to the distributor! So as i said before, the problem is most likely in there somewhere!

whats the temperature gauge saying, is it normal? you said it wouldnt start again after a couple of minutes, is it still cranking over and just not firing? it could also be the electronic ignition/coils. I'm not a mechanic, actually electrician, i have found this problem before on machinary and it has been the ignition, when it gets hot it breaks down and wont deliver enough voltage for the plugs. Just a suggestion. Hi, I'm an auto electrician also. Genereally when you see these symptoms it is an ignition problem, and also heat related, which is why it will start after a cooling down period. I'm guessing it is either an ignitor or coil problem. probably the easiest way to test the theory is to fit a second hand distributor as all the ignition gear is in there. If it was just plug leads or plugs you wouldn't expect to see the tacho drop like you said. Although i have seen a bad earth do that too. check all your engine earths and battery terminals as it's the simplest thing to start with. hope this helps.. ian

Also, check your battery terminals are clean and tight. It may just be a bad earth.

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What gearbow are you using? I have a T50 and the cable fitted in fine.. Also i don't know if you have hooked up your radiator yet but i used a top hose from a camira part no. CH 1494 (MACKAY) and i think i turned the thermostat housing around 180 degrees but not sure.. the hose is the perfect shape anyway.. hope this helps..

Progress is a little slow as i don't have time to work on it as much as i would like. My cam is packed up ready to be sent away to be re-ground and i'm currently working on my piping for the supercharger. I still have alot to do but it's coming along slowly..

I'm keen for one.. they look good!

Those calcs won't work with one of those centrifcal type chargers as they don't move a set amount of air per revolution. They operate like a turbo (although driven by the crank) and require the compressor wheel to be spinning at warp factor 9 before it will actually pressurise the air going through it..

Who knows man? what kind of tick noise is it? you may need to reset your tappet clearances, unless it's hydraulic? has it got enough oil in it?

It's your earth lead dude.. It goes between the moving plate the points are on to the body of the dizzy..

I think they both look gay.. unless it's functional, why bother?

Definatly DO NOT use an intercooler with a drawthrough setup! The universe might have started with a BIG BANG but we don't want to see it end that way... In draw through setup, the fuel going through the supercharger acts as a cooling agent also. I found these calculations somewhere to work out the pulley ratios for superchargers. When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised. The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection. To choose a setup you need to know :- 1. Engine capacity 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using. 3. Boost level desired I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below. FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi ) Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min. This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost. SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio) Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi) Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost) Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost. To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??) CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed) Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14. 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62 CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio) Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904. EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi. if using an SC12 just substitute 1.2litres/minute instead of the 1.5litres/minute for SC14.. if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42litres/min! and even more so use the exact displacement of your engine eg. 3T-c is 1770cc.. If you already have a pulley, you can measure it and do the calcs backwards to see what boost it will make with that size.. you'll work it out.. Hope this helps. Sorry it's a bit long winded..

I a friend of mine put a pintara diff in his KE30 without shortening it. He used FWD offset wheels and it fitted fine, i don't think he even needed to flare the guards..

It's funny you mention trying to pull a swifty.. I put a 3T-C in my ke30 (i didn't stuff around with engine numbers though) and got pulled up one day, it was a little noisy so the cop wanted to inspect it and then check to see it didn't have any oil leaks. He got me to open the bonnet and i thought "shit i'm done here.." But when he looked at it he never even got sus about it! and the 3T motor looks heaps different to the 3K.

Camtech cams have a website with all their grinds listed. There is a form you can fill out with all your engine specs and what you want to do with it etc. and they will work out what is best for you and e-mail you back. They quoted me $175 to have my 3T-C cam reground, they didn't have any new billets.

It's also possible that the idle passages and/or idle jets in the carby are blocked.

I'm not sure how much the injector will flow.. I haven't measured it. I figured once i got my motor going I would just have a play and experiment with it.. I've moved down to Hobart now.. I started my own mobile Auto Electrical buisness.. I't would've been better in Launceston but the missus had to move down for work.

Well I know it's been ages since i've updated this but i've been busy moving house to the other end of the state with the car a 2.5 hour drive away. I've been tinkering with a couple of bits, although not yet finished. I had my uncle bore a hole in the bottom of the inlet manifold, the supercharger outlet will face backwards then go up into the manifold. I have made an aluminium plate to cover the original hole in the top, I also put a cold start injector from a sv21 camry in there also.. not sure what i will use it for yet.. maybe water injection or nos if i get excited.. I have also been trying to fit this instrument cluster in from my missus' old AE92 which she wrote off last year. I've got it to fit ok although i'm not sure if i like it yet. will see what it looks like after i smooth the edges and paint it. I might even try to make some white gauge faces to mach my other gauges i have to put in the left half..

reliabilty is the key word here.. A turbo 3k would be heaps of fun to build and play with, but if you don't have the knowledge or skills to work on it yourself when there's a problem you've lost your reliability. Thats why people will always recommend more CC's..

If still no joy with the rag, use a new razor blade like the ones you put in scrapers and it'll come off.. it won't scratch the glass either.. :P

I would have said it was a switch to turn on a low oil level light..?

Hi guys, I've had this for a while now and i thought it was about time i do some more work on it.. I originally had an immaculate T-18 which i only owned for 6 months due to my brother writing off! *Spewin* ;) I then bought this KE30 4door, it was rough as guts but after i lost my pride and joy i had no money, and as a struggling first year apprentice i had to make do.. I proceeded to pull out the engine and 5speed, seats and a few other bits and pieces from the T-18 before cutting the whole lot up with a 9inch angle grinder and taking the rest to the tip! I was surprised how easy it was to fit the 3T motor and box into the KE30 though. (i didn't know about rollaclub back then to get tips from) I was always keen to have a go at supercharging it back then but never had the time or money to do anything about it, all i could afford was a weber off a two litre cortina.. haha It went pretty well for an old clunker though and i drove it like that for about 18 months or so when a few more dollars were earned i bought a VS commodore ute. and the corolla was put aside to (*collect dust* and hopefully) be finished another day, month, year? :( Anyway, enough shit.. I've finally gotten all excited about her again and i've started to do a bit more work on her so i thought i'd post some pics and let you know how i go.. I know its rough but it'll get better.. at least it looks better than that original mustard colour.. Whats that saying about sleeping dogs? Maybe i can wake up some sleeping horses..

if you switch off the clutch without using a by-pass, the vacuum of the engine will just spin the lobes inside the supercharger.

Far out! Thats mental! Is it an LSD hilux diff? did you have to modify it at all to fit it underneath? have you done any work to the rear springs?

usually popping and backfiring is caused by an exhaust leak.. when you back off the throttle, air is sucked in the hole and allows any unburnt fuel in the exhaust to burn because it is an air/fuel mix again.. it gets worse when the engine is hot because the heat from the pipe ignites the mixture more easily..