peterd

thank you. The adjuster screw just needed a whack to get it moving and then it was straight forward.

I've replaced the slave cylinders on my rear drum brakes. (78 ke35) I'm trying to turn the adjuster because my pedal is sloppy when I start the car but it won't turn. It turns easily when its disconnected. Is there something that I've missed? I have bled the brake lines. Thank for your help.

Thanks for all your help. I'll have another crack at it soon. Winter in Perth only lasts a week (and that was last week) so its not urgent. Luckily as long as I can wind my windows down, my air con will always work.

at the moment I've got two long flexible hoses connecting everything. I can't get any heat out of my heater although I've got a newish clean radiator, brand new heater core, no blockages asaik, working thermostat and the heater controls/fan seem to be ok. in another thread altezzaclub said that the copper tubing is a pressure pipe for the heater, so I thought this might get my heater working. I can't think of anything else.

my car was missing the heater hoses and copper pipe that runs past the engine when I bought it. I can't find any part numbers for the rubber hoses. can anyone let me know where I can find the correct hoses? Is there anything special about the copper pipe? it's a 4k in a ke35. (thermostat to copper pipe, copper pipe to firewall. and the return) thanks

Sorry John. I'm not trying to hijack your thread. The popular mechanics website says the main reason that heaters don't work (assuming its connected correctly) is either a blockage or a faulty thermostat. Altezzaclub wrote "The KE70 has the dizzy side pipe with the copper tube as the pressure feed to the heater. It starts under the thermostat where the water pump is pushing hot water into the top of the radiator." When I got my car, the heater wasn't connected (because it had a leak) and the hoses/copper tube were missing. I connected the heater with tubing but no pipe. So without the copper tube as a pressure feed, do you think this is stopping my heater from working?

Did you get your heater working? I'd given up on mine because it doesn't usually get very cold in Perth, but I was looking for it this week. I've never got any noticeable heat out of mine. I've got a brand new heater core, I can hear the water gurgling through it when I first turn it on, but it doesn't seem to produce any heat. The controls seem to do what they're meant to do and I figured if the tubing in the cabin is leaking, at least my feet would get warm. I'm wondering if ke heaters usually do much?

thanks for the replies.

I took the car for a drive today and when I went to restart it to come home, all I got was a click. The motor didn't try to turn over at all. After a few goes and a few clicks later, it started easily. It did it again later. The battery has got 13.5v and the alternator is making 14.5v. The engine oil is black and the coolant is fine. The electrical connections seem ok. It was a hot day today. The motor is a high compression 4K. (5k head) it's a 3 speed gm auto. Any ideas? Thanks.

Colour code is AZ for the mustard patch on my 1978 ke35.

I'm hoping someone wouldn't wind taking a photo of some ke30 grill clips for me so that I can see which ones I need. (if you have any lying around) It's got four along the bottom of the grill. the grill is like this one. thanks Peter

thank you that makes sense. so I assume some wires should be attached here? One chamber was full and was empty but there was no warning light. The warning light actually glows very dimly all the time, which I assumed was an earth problem.

Thanks for having a look at that for me. Do you know what the switch does? Do you have any idea where the warning light wires attach? Apart from the switch, I can't see anything else on the mc. My gregories covers the early models but my ke35 is more ke55 i think. (1978 model) Thanks for your help.

I found myself without any brake fluid the other day. I was wondering why the warning light didn't come on. As far as I can tell, it's not connected. There are three empty plugs coming off the wiring loom and I'm wondering if one of these should be connected. Ones got one wire, one two and the other three wires. Any help would be appreciated. thanks Peter

yes I've adjusted everything on the carby. I'll lean it out and see what happens. (no really cold mornings here in December. It's Perth!) thanks

thanks I'll fill up today and see how the milage compares with before. the carby is a rejetted aisin. (jets are one size up I think) It starts easily with not much choke. maybe it's just too rich. I'll play around with it and inspect the plugs too. thanks

I'm the guy with the crazy 4k block, 5k head (and who know what else) high compression 4k. I've been playing with the carby lately and it runs sweet. On startup, I'm getting a good spray of dirty black soot spraying out of the exhaust and then it's clean and not smokey. (dirty particles) I'm not using oil or water. I think the exhaust is clean when it's running. It used to start clean I think. The exhaust and extractors are a few months old. There is a small manifold leak. I also changed the spark plugs to a cooler one recently. any ideas? thanks for your help. Peter

I've just replaced the head gasket on my 4k with very little mechanical knowledge. Get a workshop manual (or download the Toyota 4k manual http://www.retrojdm.com/ScanViewPDF.asp?ScanID=29 ), think clean clean clean, and follow the instructions. I had the head reconditioned, $300, bought a gasket kit $50, and borrowed a torque wrench. Make sure the surfaces are flat and clean. It was quite easy. There's enough information on this site, great people here who will hold your hand and lots of YouTube videos. My only problem was a leaky manifold gasket which made the car idle rough and lose power when I put it in gear. It was really rewarding when I got it going again. Its a 4k. Basically you undo bolts and tighten them up. It wasn't rocket science. Good luck.

Or put a 3k/4k head on it and not worry about blowing a head gasket every time you go for a drive.

Its sounds like mine. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70614-5k-head-4k-block/ I think we can have a competition to see who blows a head gasket first. Ive been told to give it a proper warm up/cool down. Mine's only done about 100k's since the new gasket was put on so I've got no idea how long it will last.

The car is running sweet. Thanks heaps for all the help.

Did that yesterday!

excellent advice too! I learned about the (extended) spanner/hammer combo yesterday when I was trying to get the sump plug out. I think King Kong was working on it last. and yes, my dad taught me about the hammer. "if a hammer can't fix the problem, you need a bigger one"

thank you. what an awesome write up. much appreciated. the cheque is in the e(mail).

I'm very new at this mechanics stuff. Ive been playing around with my 4k and I've successfully serviced the auto transmission and changed the head gasket so far. I'm working my way through the tuning now. I've got the gregory's manual and the yellow toyota 4k manual. (which you can download here http://www.retrojdm.com/ScanView.asp?ScanID=29 ) The toyota yellow book is very clear, the gregory's not so good. I've found that they assume you know the basic stuff. Can anyone recommend a good generic workshop manual to teach me the basic stuff? thanks