peterd

before pulling the carby apart, is it worth trying to suck any junk out first. Here's how I was taught. I believe it's called the "89 cent tuneup" remove the air cleaner, start the car and cover the top of the carby with the palm of your hand. (your hand gets sucked in a bit) rev the motor and when it's about to stall, remove your hand. do it a couple of times. if you're lucky, this will clear any crap from the jets. (I'm very new at this mechanics stuff, so if this is not correct, please feel free to correct me)

yes the head was skimmed and reco'd by a popular place in Perth, but I don't know it's history. The end result might be the perfect solution to adding power to an auto car. I can see the head gasket blowing every week if it was in a manual with the higher revs. Time will tell how long it lasts. I'll let you know when it blows up! The car is just some fun for me to learn about mechanics and have some fun. I'm not relying on it. I've got a gas guzzling, extremely reliable Kluger as a daily, with no user servicable parts. (14.5L/100km average)

I was told by a wise old corolla expert that the easiest way to get more power from the 4k was to swap the stock air cleaner for an open sports style one (+2hp), use 95 octane fuel because the modern fuel is different, and advance the timing to about 12 or 15.

Its got extractors and a rejetted aisin carb. It goes great so I think I'll wait until it blows up and then do the manual trannie swap when a new engine goes in. I've got no idea what cam is in it. I wondered if it was a speedway engine or just a bits and pieces in the shed engine for fun. Lets see how long it lasts.

Well I did my homework today and came up with these figures. bore 75mm, stroke 73mm, gasket diameter 78mm, gasket thickness 1mm plus 2mm shim = 3mm, combustion chamber volume 17.5mm, dished piston volume 6mm ( a figure I got from a forum) using http://www.csgnetwor...m/compcalc.html I get the awesome compression ratio of 13.5:1, which corresponds to the 14:1 mentioned here. http://www.rollaclub...head-vs-4k-head The car was running fine on 95 octane, but I think I might change to 100 octane. (or methanol!) My mechanic mate looked at the motor today and couldn't find any damage to the pistons or cylinder bore from the high compression and said to make sure I properly warm up and cool down the motor each time I use it. The head was off because my 13yo son blew the head gasket by starting the car with full throttle. The head reco guy said that apart from the gasket going, there was a hole in the water jacket which needed welding and said it had been leaking for a while. The head had already had a lot taken off it. There's a mark which looks like a grinder mark on the surface which my mate thought was a burn mark. (from memory) The head spacer (shim) is a 2mm piece of sheet steel cut to match the gasket. A few weeks ago I asked on this forum if there is much advantage in changing the auto to a manual. The car goes really well as an auto, and now I know why. I'm not a burnout type of guy, so I think I'll leave it as it is and see what happens.

I picked up my head today from the engine builders and was told that it was a 5k head. I thought it was 4k as it sits on a 4k block. From what I've read, 5k on a 4k block increases the compression and isn't a good idea. The car is a ke35 with a gm trimatic and is quite spritely around the city. Most people say that the 4k auto combination is a dog and with a 5k head, it should be horrible, but its not. There is a 2mm spacer with the head gasket. The bore is 75mm. (4k) I have no idea what cam is in it. When I get it back together, I'll see what the compression is. Has any one else tried this combination? I've added some photos of what I have.

I've tried all the cleaners, bleach, oxy cleaner, mould killer. Nothing has touched it. I already have some painted ones so I'm hoping to get these back to original. If I find a solution, I'll let you know.

Thanks for your help.

You can buy one piece extractor gaskets on eBay for $25.

Thanks. I wasn't planning on pulling the block out. I've got another motor which I'll do a full rebuild on one day. Is there anything else I should be doing while the head is off? The head is getting reconned.

I've been trying to clean the dirty marks off my vinyl sun visors. So far nothing has budged it. I've done some googling and it seems like it might be mould or a bacteria. Forums suggest that a: it's never coming off b: clearasil pimple remover removes it c: oxy cleaning products remove it I've tried everything I can think of and option "a" is where I'm at. Has anyone had any luck with this? thanks

I've pulled the head off my 4k and noticed that some of the holes for the coolant are completey gummed up with crap on the engine block. It turns out that the gasket that was on it didn't have holes in all the right places . I've got a new genuine 4k toyota gasket and this one is missing a few holes too. It's the same as the one that was on it. Are there different 4k gaskets available? There is a shim with the gasket so the heads obviously been off a few times already. I didn't have any overheating problems. You can see the differences in the photo. thanks

thanks for the great information on setting the clearances. I had my 13yo son start my car the other day with "a little bit of accelerator" He floored it and blew a head gasket. I took the head off and it's getting a recon now. Next weeks job is to get it together again and working. This is pretty adventurous for me so I appreciate the great advice. So far, apart from the skinned knuckes, it's been pretty straightfoward.

thanks for teaching me a new word. I'll add it to my vocab. I find that just by driving a bright orange ke35, I get lots of "mirin", but mostly by bogans. (the male type)

Here's a few photos of my 4k ke35 engine bay. the vacuum hoses were tidied up this week by a carby mechanic. I think he got it right.

Thanks for your replies. I'm not what "mirin" means but I'm sure I want some. I guess I'd better do the conversion. cheers, Peter.

I've got a 4k 3speed auto and was planning on doing a manual conversion. I've got everything I need but I was wondering what type of gain I'd get from doing the conversion. I know manuals are more fun, but apart from that, is there much of a difference with accelleration, fuel economy, etc with doing the conversion?

I've got an auto ke35 with a 4k. (gm trimatic) It was running fine when I got it but I thought that a weber might give it a bit of extra go. The standard carb on it obviously hadn't been touched for a long time, judging by the amount of gunk stuck to it. I spoke to an old school mechanic who's been playing with corollas since they were invented and was told that I could get the same gain that I'd get from a weber by rejetting the aiisin, running on 95 octane, advancing the timing and replacing the air cleaner with an open style chrome housing. I took the car to an old school mechanic who specializes in carbs and was told much the same. He said that a weber would actually make the car slower because it was an auto and doesn't get enough revs. I had the carb rebuilt and rejetted. The car accelerates well now, easily keeping up with city traffic. Rejetting the carb doesn't cost much but the rebuild made the cost about the same as a downdraft weber. I can't find much info on rejetting aiisins and was wondering if anyone has tried this and how it compares to changing to a weber. The only other 4k I've driven was a 3k ke35 with a 2 speed toyoglide and it was bloody scary watching the traffic come up behind me while I was trying to get the car to 60kmh.

There's a 5k on Gumtree under "5k engine".

thanks for the quick reply. makes sense. I should have mentioned it's for a k40 box but I'm sure the general theory works for everything. (I must learn how to spell "machining" too)

Can someone tell me the right amount of weight drop off a flywheel so that it's still a practical car to drive around the city? I was told that if I lose too much weight, the car will be a bit difficult to get moving. thanks

is the fan connected? it's got two terminals that connect to the demister box. fuse?

I came across this old post when I was looking for a solution to my fuel and temp gauges working/not working at the same time. The problem was the voltage regulator . I couldn't find an off the shelf replacement so I had one made by a guy who specializes in fixing speedos. http://www.appliedinstruments.com.au/ It now looks like this.

the other day, I was installing a replacement rear demister switch in my ke35 and I managed to blow the demister fuse because the new switch was stuffed. With a blown fuse, the car wouldn't idle properly and would stall. Obviously I fixed the problem with a 20cent fuse but it just had me wondering if it's normal or if my wiring is a bit odd. thanks Peter

Can anyone help me with either photos are parts listing for the heater hose configuration for a 4k motor in a ke35? I've got the basic idea from google images but the shops aren't interested in helping me without a parts listing. Only radiator hoses for a 4k come up on their computers. Thanks heaps.