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V_NIkula

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Everything posted by V_NIkula

  1. Visited dyno last week to get the sc adjusted. Thick lines are turbo only. Don't mind the peak power, this is low boost. It's very much easier to drive now. Ended this short-but-fun season at Alastaro circuit 22.10. It's kinda scary to drive because brakes disappear very fast and rear has no traction at all but it's still fun as hell :D Sad to think that this was probably the last time i drove this car with this motor. Been looking for new body to start with but they're not easy to find. I'll buy early KE70 2door or KP series Starlet when a good one comes to sale.
  2. Size comparison with W50, T40 with T-T bellhousing and zf box with A bellhousing: Lenght of the box is good, should get the gearstick 10-15cm backwards.
  3. Thanks =) I have now driven for few weekends and engine seems to work fine. Everything else still needs a lot of upgrading :D Even visited at drift day last weekend, drove about 10 laps and broke oil cooler and leaf spring due to little spin 8/ 8/ Now fixed and I'm planning to drive it once more this year and then start to strip it. This little guy decided to give up after dyno, now with no gasket and holds fine. Our magnificent duo I forgot to drift On way home goddamit I picked up the bmw box (finally) yesterday and it's HUGE. Need to start chopping the chassis soon :jason:
  4. Nice tuning session today. Only run with turbo and low boost because of the weak driveline. Had no balls to run over 1 bar boost, and it feels like the turbo wants much more. I'll be running at least 1,5 bar when driveline is strong enough and it should give a lot more power. Now the turbo lag is quite huge, nothing happening until 3500 rpm, after that it finds the red line very quickly :D Very nice feeling finally getting to drive it properly. I have some video of the dyno but I've not checked yet is there anything worth publishing. Now it has 200kw and 350nm at wheels.
  5. Awesome photos and awesome car, nice to see it being driven properly :y:
  6. Thanks 5KKid :) Got new oil return done, the ebay shit can't take heat: Changed camshaft sensor to hall type because of the unreliability of the original reluctor sensor: (It's now finished and painted) Installed oilcooler: Then happily went to test drive and BANG drive shaft is gone. Now I need to get new before wednesdays dyno. And I'm starting to plan the driveline upgrade, just hoping this lasts the dyno. I'm taking the Volvo axle to sand blast next week and see whats going on with the bmw box.
  7. Couldn't get the original 4A-GZE trigger to work properly. Probably because of the Haltech decoder. Now I have a 18 tooth trigger wheel at crankshaft and a hall sensor reading it. After setting the tooth offset and timing with light it started working. No more misses :) Tomorrow I'll change the turbo oil return line to something different because I don't trust that cheap eBay hose...
  8. Had few issues today in dyno. The trigger signal from distributor got very noisy at >2500rpm and caused a lot of misses so we couldn't tune it properly. Ran out of time trying to solve what causes the noise and had to give up with it. So I went back home and started to check wiring and found out that I had somehow managed to mix ECU ground with coil ground... After few shitʞ©$ɟs I changed the grounds like they should be and ta-da; runs like a dream. Even drove it a little around the garage. But still, Haltechs miss counter shows that when starting it misses 6-7 times trigger, and when revving hard and letting go it misses 2-3 times. I heard that sometimes Haltechs decoder causes problems like this. Scoped trigger signal while running and the signal does not change when it misses. If I don't get that fixed I'll put trigger wheel to crankshaft and run hall-sensor to get proper signal. Despite these little problems i'm quite satisfied with it. I have new time 21.9 and should be able to push it harder.
  9. Thanks :) I got dyno time 7.9 so I've been working quite long days now. Yesterday I wired radiator fans and modified the supercharger-butterfly valve wiring a bit and now it seems to work fine. Messed with timing and fuel maps a little and now it revs all the way up. Sounds pretty terrifying when turbo spools and butterfly valve opens :P:
  10. Thanks for the comments. Coils are from ZZ series engine.
  11. Been working out the little things before dyno. Mounted wideband and oil pressure gauges next to Haltech dash, installed new main fuse and painted the center console matt black. Also noticed there's a little difference between intake temp and coolant temp even after it has not been running in days, so I had to calibrate the coolant sensor since the IAT sensor is reading right. Time to build test bench: Then slowly warming up the water where the sensor was in and writing down voltages. It seems that the sensor is quite linear: Now the coolant is reading right. Also noticed that i have to add one relay to control the supercharger and butterfly valve the way I want to. I want the supercharger only to be activated approx -20,0-40kPA MAP which seems to be impossible without adding one relay so when the butterfly valve opens it switches the supercharger off. But more about this when I get to test it.
  12. This is just fantastic car, has helped me alot with my own build :hail:
  13. Solved the mysterious runnning problem when engine idled perfectly but died on throttle, found out that the new non-oem coils were bad. I've had them running only for about 4 hours and not driven at all. Looks like they are just shit quality. My dwell time is only 2.5ms which should not hurt coils and they did not get hot when running. I have now oem Denso coils and the car is back alive. Also chaged the aftermarket thermostat housing to oem fwd 4age thermostat system and got water circulating right. I have it now set up like this (I don't know who took this picture but it really helped me): Now it's only missing wiring of the fans and a set of new plugs before dyno. I took it for a first test ride few days back and it really feels like it has some power :yes: Here's another stupid video of just revving it and testing different settings when to engage sc:
  14. Thanks Been a while since last update. I've been having shitty problems with the distributor settings but they seem to be all sorted out now. I got the Haltech dash installed and I've mounted oil filter and fuel regulator to engine bay. Not much to do before first dyno. :) Not many pics this time... Here is engine bay quite finished: And dash: Seems the quality of pics is quite bad :(
  15. Thanks Supercharger blows through turbo to intake. Yes it is a bigport intake. Stock gze cams now, thinking of changing na cams but we'll what it's like in dyno. I have no idea about the ratio of this diff but the Volvo one is about 4,1. BMW gearbox is quite long ratio. I'm still messing with the timing, if I adjust it with lamp at 0 degrees the motor barely runs and sparks at the exhaust all the time, like it's very late but the ecu is about 15 degrees. Then if I turn it much earlier (like 70 degrees) it runs much better though it should not runs at all. I think there's something wrong about the settings. I have drove under a mile with this clutch and I already hate it. Should've gone multi-plate.
  16. Supercharger is quite loud. Still missing one bov before turbo.
  17. Thank for comments! The pod is crankcase breather can. BMW boxes are known to hold over 700hp easily so it should be bulletproof in this little lightweight body. They are also easily available here from scrap yards. I got the car running today, it took a lot of cursing with the timing but it's good now. Also the butterfly valve and superchargers switch seems to be working ok. Next up is the dashboard but I haven't got the dash yet :( Will post video later this weekend.
  18. Finished the engine harness today. If all goes as planned this could be running at the weekend.
  19. Harness is mostly done, just few connectors to add and then measure it's working ok. Also got the transmission problem solved, bought ZF GS6-37DZ 6 speed manual from BMW. Also Haltech dash should arrive next week so I get rid of the horrible gauges.
  20. Hello, I've been lurking here for some time now and I thought to share my project with you. It's a 1974 Ke20 which I bought about five years ago in a very bad shape. Thinking afterwards I would've saved very much time by getting a better body to start with. So for the next five months I spent all my time in the garage welding that rusty little car. Got a little hurry when summer came and I had to get it back on road so I painted it matt black with spray and drove happily for the summer. At this time it had a 4K motor with some Webers. Didn't go very fast. I'm missing pics from this time, I'll add them here if I find them. Got tired to the lack of power and bought a GZE motor and fitted it along with megasquirt and headers and a bunch of ugly meters. Drove it for a few months with temporary plates and I was quite happy with it. Then the winter came and I had to do something for it and decided to add a turbo to it. I put a Holset HX35 Super to it with CXRacing manifold and Precision wastegate, EV14 850cc injectors and also changed intake manifold to a 4age RWD model. A year ago I got it running and did few test drives without the butterfly valve so the SC12 was just pushing air out to atmosphere. It was quite difficult to drive due to turbo lag. Then I got tired of the poorly assembled megasquirt and bought a Haltech Sprint 500 (and I now regret not buying Sport 1000). And here we are quite at the moment. I'm doing the engine harness at the moment. Trying to make it modular so it's easy to move the whole motor from car to another because this body is not so good and I'm using it just to get the motor working and tuned. Hoping to find a good Ke25, Ke70, Ta12 or something to put the motor on and make the suspension and brakes match the motor. So this Ke20 is just a test platform. I have also a Volvo 1030 axle under construction at the moment, and I'm going to change the gearbox to ZF S5D-320Z from E36 M3. Feel free to ask anything
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