Hello, I've been lurking here for some time now and I thought to share my project with you.

 

It's a 1974 Ke20 which I bought about five years ago in a very bad shape. Thinking afterwards I would've saved very much time by getting a better body to start with.

 

 

So for the next five months I spent all my time in the garage welding that rusty little car. Got a little hurry when summer came and I had to get it back on road so I painted it matt black with spray and drove happily for the summer. At this time it had a 4K motor with some Webers. Didn't go very fast.

 

I'm missing pics from this time, I'll add them here if I find them.

 

Got tired to the lack of power and bought a GZE motor and fitted it along with megasquirt and headers and a bunch of ugly meters.

 

 

Drove it for a few months with temporary plates and I was quite happy with it. Then the winter came and I had to do something for it and decided to add a turbo to it. I put a Holset HX35 Super to it with CXRacing manifold and Precision wastegate, EV14 850cc injectors and also changed intake manifold to a 4age RWD model.

 

 

A year ago I got it running and did few test drives without the butterfly valve so the SC12 was just pushing air out to atmosphere. It was quite difficult to drive due to turbo lag. Then I got tired of the poorly assembled megasquirt and bought a Haltech Sprint 500 (and I now regret not buying Sport 1000).

 

 

 

 

And here we are quite at the moment. I'm doing the engine harness at the moment. Trying to make it modular so it's easy to move the whole motor from car to another because this body is not so good and I'm using it just to get the motor working and tuned. Hoping to find a good Ke25, Ke70, Ta12 or something to put the motor on and make the suspension and brakes match the motor. So this Ke20 is just a test platform.

 

 

 

I have also a Volvo 1030 axle under construction at the moment, and I'm going to change the gearbox to ZF S5D-320Z from E36 M3.

 

Feel free to ask anything

Edited May 21, 201610 yr by V_NIkula

Harness is mostly done, just few connectors to add and then measure it's working ok. Also got the transmission problem solved, bought ZF GS6-37DZ 6 speed manual from BMW. Also Haltech dash should arrive next week so I get rid of the horrible gauges.

 

 

 

Finished the engine harness today. If all goes as planned this could be running at the weekend.

 

Man I love this thing

It's making want my engine back from the machine shop so bad.

What's the pod breathing on the intake side ?

What a tough lil rolla, how awesome!

 

What made you pick the bmw box?

Thank for comments!

 

The pod is crankcase breather can.

 

BMW boxes are known to hold over 700hp easily so it should be bulletproof in this little lightweight body. They are also easily available here from scrap yards.

 

I got the car running today, it took a lot of cursing with the timing but it's good now. Also the butterfly valve and superchargers switch seems to be working ok. Next up is the dashboard but I haven't got the dash yet :(

 

Will post video later this weekend.

 

Supercharger is quite loud. Still missing one bov before turbo.

good skills

super cool little ride!! Too bad u gonna scrap the chasis.... twincharged 4ag seems right at home

How did you plumb the sc - turbo - intake ?

Is that a bigport intake manifold ?

What cams are you running ? (I'm sure the holset will choke on stock cams)

What is the final diff ratio target

 

Once you get supercharger fattening up the lacking low-to-midrange torque, the car should be a blast throughout the entire rpm

Heck, even a 3 speed manual would work in that lightweight hull

Thanks

 

Supercharger blows through turbo to intake.

Yes it is a bigport intake. Stock gze cams now, thinking of changing na cams but we'll what it's like in dyno. I have no idea about the ratio of this diff but the Volvo one is about 4,1. BMW gearbox is quite long ratio.

 

I'm still messing with the timing, if I adjust it with lamp at 0 degrees the motor barely runs and sparks at the exhaust all the time, like it's very late but the ecu is about 15 degrees. Then if I turn it much earlier (like 70 degrees) it runs much better though it should not runs at all. I think there's something wrong about the settings.

 

I have drove under a mile with this clutch and I already hate it. Should've gone multi-plate.

 

Very cool setup. Was hoping to do something similar (albeit far more agricultural) in my KE70.

Thanks

 

Been a while since last update. I've been having shitty problems with the distributor settings but they seem to be all sorted out now.

 

I got the Haltech dash installed and I've mounted oil filter and fuel regulator to engine bay.

 

Not much to do before first dyno. :)

 

Not many pics this time...

 

Here is engine bay quite finished:

 

And dash:

 

Seems the quality of pics is quite bad :(

Solved the mysterious runnning problem when engine idled perfectly but died on throttle, found out that the new non-oem coils were bad. I've had them running only for about 4 hours and not driven at all. Looks like they are just shit quality. My dwell time is only 2.5ms which should not hurt coils and they did not get hot when running.

 

I have now oem Denso coils and the car is back alive. Also chaged the aftermarket thermostat housing to oem fwd 4age thermostat system and got water circulating right. I have it now set up like this (I don't know who took this picture but it really helped me):

 

 

Now it's only missing wiring of the fans and a set of new plugs before dyno. I took it for a first test ride few days back and it really feels like it has some power :yes:

 

Here's another stupid video of just revving it and testing different settings when to engage sc:

 

Been working out the little things before dyno. Mounted wideband and oil pressure gauges next to Haltech dash, installed new main fuse and painted the center console matt black.

 

Also noticed there's a little difference between intake temp and coolant temp even after it has not been running in days, so I had to calibrate the coolant sensor since the IAT sensor is reading right.

 

Time to build test bench:

 

 

Then slowly warming up the water where the sensor was in and writing down voltages. It seems that the sensor is quite linear:

 

 

Now the coolant is reading right.

 

Also noticed that i have to add one relay to control the supercharger and butterfly valve the way I want to. I want the supercharger only to be activated approx -20,0-40kPA MAP which seems to be impossible without adding one relay so when the butterfly valve opens it switches the supercharger off. But more about this when I get to test it.

love it....love it ......did i say i love this build....well i do..... :kewlpics: :groupwave: ......u'll be hearing allot from me......

Awesome build mate, would hook along quite well with that driveline!

Love everything other than the matte black colour scheme..