KaboomJohn111

when you shaved the head on your 5k, how much did you shave and what compression did you get Also did anything need to be done to your pushrods when you shaved the head or put in the cam (again I've never worked with hydraulic lifters before)

wow and who said the 5k doesn't like revs

Coln, I just went and saw you vid's, you definitely went to at least 7k rpm I think I'll stick with the Tighe 104 grind, purely because I will be using the car as my daily driver as well and although your Wade cam will give some more top end, I would like it to be more of a cruiser as I've decided to make my ke30 into my motorkhana car, since its already stripped etc. Also coln, how did you raise the compression of your 5k (was it just a head shave) and I've been told that there are 2 different pistons (flat top and dished) and that will determine how to raise/lower compression ratio?

- I think I'll stick with the twin weber setup since they should be able to handle the job (besides If really necessary I can ask for DCOE 45's when I order the carbs) -Since I don't have any spare 4k valve and cam gear (plus time is a bit of an issue, because job) I'll stick with the hydraulic valve and cam gear the hydraulic stuff is something new to me so may as well learn, - I can make up a 2' inch exhaust system, but If anyone knows any extractors which fit a 5k, let me know - I'll contact Tighe to try get a custom grind (something along the lines of a Tighe 104 because I love it, but obviously suited for hydraulic set-up, maybe with a bit more lift)...someone tell me how much lift stock 5k valve springs can take. - I'll call up ACL pistons see if they got anything for the motor (some also let me know how much the 5k block can be bored or if it's best to leave that alone) - I'll get all rotating components balanced - I can send the head for a port and polish (because I lack the time to do so myself...also I am no where near as good as pete from head2head clayton) Can someone tell me how high of a Compression ratio I can run (but must be reliable, in my head i'm thinking 10.1:1) I'll ask some more questions once I can think up of some But Huge Thanks for the comments so far

I like the idea, but I wish to keep the 4k together as I got a ke30 rolling chassis (which I've stripped and fixed the entire body...was pretty clean but just some boot area rust) at home and though I'd put the 4k in there and make it into a fun motorkhana car, I don't mind spending the extra money for components for the 5k, just asking is there any particular reason to convert it to solid cam and lifters (I've noticed its a quite a common thing to do with 5k's) is it a reliability thing or something. also what other options or specs have people built thiers to?

Hey all, I very recently acquired a 5k motor and I plan to fit it to my Ke70, I know how to do the engine swap so no questions there Since Currently the 4k in my ke70 is worked (2x 40 DCOE webers, Tighe 104 cam, 2' inch exhaust, 40 thou overbore for ACL pistons, All rotating components have been balanced, lightend flywheel, MSD 6a ignition system w/Blaster 2 coil...etc.) I've had my hand on working 4k's...But I've honestly done a 5k before so in the interest of learning etc. I'd like to know this What mods/specs have people built their 5k's (must be n/a, no forced induction) to, What kind of power output am I looking at (Streetable... like the 4k above)...Be realistic please, anything to lookout for (I already know 5k have hydraulic lifters, also from what i've heard the combustion chamber has more of the piston involved) so please let me know, and importantly what are the limits of the motor. Sorry to the 5k guys in advance if I sound like a complete and utter idiot or whatever out utterances you wish to call me by

I first saw his car not on rollaclub, but on the Performance Wheels website I was looking through the gallery for superlites when I was going to buy mine, and I saw this beaut What I want to ask is about those awesome looking TEQ hubcaps he made, again they look awesome and...can you possibly make another set? plz

Thanks guys, for the help

I'm not sure if it is in the FAQ, but every other forum and topic of such I have looked at are either inconclusive, or someone brings up ke30's and ke55's then the topic at hand is lost to the dark ages Is it the whole assembly transferable or just the shifter rod (i.e take apart shifter one and put it in to the assembly/mount and pivot of the other) If anyone can add photo's this would help this topic more and clear confusion (hence why I made this topic because every other was inconclusive)

Hey all quick questions, All are referring to 1983 KE70 corolla Will a T-50 Shiftier assembly or a T-50 shifter (rod only) fit a K-50 box and/or shifter assembly? Will a K-40 Shiftier assembly or a K-40 shifter (rod only) fit a K-50 box and/or shifter assembly? Got a K-50 box but shifter feels sloppy, tried finding rebuild kits and all they have a T-50 shifter rebuild kits or entire T-50 shifter assemblies and I have a spare K-40 shifter assembly and wondered can I swap the shifter rods over (since all parts of the K-40 shifter are in good order) Thanks Guys, Again I'm Strictly referring to KE70, not anything prior

Cheers

Hey all, Just briefly touching this topic once more Has anyone here used an AJPS Adjustable Panhard rod, I have brought the Springs, but only now remembered that I would be well off to get an adjustable panhard. Main reason is that i've been told that it is reccomended when I lower my car to realign the diff

Fitting the replacement seal is no problem for me, The seals in it aren't leaking, But I know this box has been sitting around for some time when I got it Plus mate runs a shop in case I need some help I've just been struggling to find someone who sells them (not to mention how many times they though I was wanting main engine seals) @Clapped Out, so your saying go penrite? Also I do need to change the Plastic seat for the shifter (hence why i'm looking for a kit) it's split completely, So does amayama have that too?

Anyone know where to buy a new shifter rebuild kit for K-50 box (on KE70) Or does anyone have a new shifter rebuild kit Also Front and Rear oil seals Swapping K-40 for a K-50 (since I use freeway quite often) Just though I'd do a small amount of maintenance (Already got new filter and sump seal) One last thing Penrite 80w-90 or Castrol VMX 80?

Sorry Parrot I should of been more specific I meant TRD parts in general, I sometimes hear TRD parts catalogue or a TRD part I have No idea where to get my hands on TRD stuff in general

Only Problem I have with TRD parts is...where the bloody hell do I get my hands on them The reason I'm asking about the rear bar is for preparing the car before getting a LSD...btw anyone know if there are any TRD ones available (mines a Borg Warner Diff) Yea did forget to mention I am curious about the helper spring idea, Most likely wont use it for my current car, But Its a though to be curious for The Whiteline Bar I'm thinking about is 18mm (BTR25R) non-adjustable Unfortunately I'm the kind of person who likes to prepare for the future, which as much as I hate to say it, is an absolute pain in the ass

LittleRedSpirit I completely agree with front sway bars being too thick, With the new wheels and tyres and the whiteline bar altezza mentions I believe manners won't be too much of an issue and have no idea how altezza somehow guessed that I do plan to find a LSD...eventually. I will keep in mind all that is mentioned here Altezza should I just replace the balljoint at the same time I do the bushes...Don't Plan to do the LCA's just the bushes for them Hopefully this can help others...like I always say

As mentioned in my earlier topic "Lowering my KE70" I plan on putting 30mm lower King Springs on all 4 corners. (Spring numbers are Front: KFRL-16...Rear: KTRL-34, I'll Admit I can't remember spring rate all I do know is that they are 'Progrssive' probably has nothing to do with the topic, but its here) The car is a daily but intend it be used (at somepoint) on a open track day or so, plus I intend to put the rear sway bar and bushes to tighten up the feel of the car Wheels and tyres will be (Waiting for my order at Motorsport Wheels and Tyres at Dandenong) 15x6 Performance Superlites with 195/50R15 (either Dunlop LeMans or TOYO T1R's or Pirelli P1 CINTS, Depending which of the 3 is most recommended) Camberwise I'm not planning on any real negative camber, It will stay to stock Specifications once lowered, possibly may add a little negative camber a few days before a planned track day. AJPS have 16mm Rear Sway Bars, Whiteline have 18mm. No real Plans on putting a Front Sway Bar, stock one seems to be doing a good job (Reason for rear sway bar is to take out, at least a bit of understeer) A few KE70 owners here (to my knowledge anyway so PLEASE don't hate me for being wrong) have done similar mods for daily drivers which see some...fun time... at a track etc.

Hey Guys, John Here...again A few weeks back I Started the topic "Lowering my KE70" Anyways I though Since I'm under the car I though I'd make some suspension improvements So Today's Questions are - Any Preferred/Recommenced Aftermarket Rear Sway Bars among KE70 Owners (e.g. whiteline etc.) (Aim is for something about 18-20mm, thicker than stock anyway) - Also What are peoples thoughs on SuperPro Bushings when I do the job, any preferred brands/Reccomendations The List of the bushings I plan on buying are as follows... - Castor Rod Bushes - LCA's (Lower Control Arm) Bushes - Upper Trailing Arm Bushes - Lower Trailing Arm Bushes - Panhard Rod Bushes (Should I get a Aftermarket Panhard rod?...If so again any Reccomendation/Preferences) If anyone would Like a image...Found this...Yes its from ebay may as well put the link (I will be Buying direct..cut out the middle man/corporation) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suits-Toyota-Corolla-KE70-KE71-KE72-SUPER-PRO-Front-Rear-Suspension-Bush-Kit-/302164680437?hash=item465a6b1ef5:m:mNYpQnLiyNYjumubUHhlZeg

I'll give the wreckers a though

Yeah thats the annoying part about aftermarket accessories, The grey area about legality and legislation. I wish that vicroad and other vehicle authority figures have the whole rule system streamlined e.g If ADR says its approved, Show evidence of it and cops can't even say a word against it or something like that BTW dave do you have a picture of that autotecnica wheel you showed on a ke70, The Autotecnica Classic and Indy would look great if it was Black Leather Or Has anyone tried Steering Wheel Padding Something like this... https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/kir-00001/overview/ or something similar

Cool, any other options (Just want to see as many options as possible)

Ok thanks a lot for that guys, much appreciated Does anyone know of any good quality and nice looking aftermarket steering wheels WITH a Padded centre and ADR Approved, I was doubting the legitimacy of the steering wheel since I was offered a genuine one at a swap meet for $300 (was fitted to a clean 68 MGB) Anyways, anyone know something nice looking, safe and wont get me booked, I would prefer something budget-wise but I'm willing to spend the extra for safety, I posted the wheel since It was the closest one which I though of picking up at the swap meet, but I was told (by a good friend who came with me) to first check for legality for my vehicle before buying it, Looks like I owe him a six pack

I'm Planning on getting an aftermarket steering wheel for my 1983 Ke70 Corolla, Reason for replacing stock on is the wheel itself feels 'loose' (Steering system is fine just the area where you hold it are twisting in my hand), So I though I'd take the opportunity to fit something nice The Steering Wheel I am looking at is: http://www.ebay.com....AoAAOSwboVXOvHZ With this Boss Kit (50mm if I remember, will double check with phone call) http://www.ebay.com....5166?rmvSB=true What I wanted to ask is, Are both ADR certified/ legal for Victoria, I know in QLD they have a problem with aftermarket wheels I'm asking because last thing I want is a vehicle Defect since I need it to travel to uni Also asking If anyone else in victoria who is using this steering wheel ever had problems with cops/ listed as a defect Thanks to anyone who replies

Thanks for they replies I'm still getting mixed messages, But I think I should be fine with stock shocks (will replace with a brand new set since new springs, why not some fresh shocks) I pretty much never carry a full load, just groceries, bags for uni, and I've built a diamond plate toolbox which is always in the boot (handy for helping out other people, and happens more often than you think) and its usually just me driving occasionally have a passenger or 2 Where can I get some 30mm bump stops (just in case)? I in future (i.e when I can contact Performance Wheels and Motorsport Wheels and Tyres, since both are close till the 7th) I plan to fit 15x6 Performance Superlites with 195/50 R15 Tyres (I know the wheel and tyres are suitable, just need to make an appointment with Motorsport Wheels and Tyres in Dandenong to get help with offset) So may as well double check (even after lowering), The wheels shouldn't scrub and there shouldn't be a need to roll my guards right? Sorry If I'm being annoying with many Questions