KaboomJohn111

Rear Sway Bar + Bushings

14 posts in this topic

Hey Guys, John Here...again

 

A few weeks back I Started the topic "Lowering my KE70"

 

Anyways I though Since I'm under the car I though I'd make some suspension improvements

 

So Today's Questions are

 

- Any Preferred/Recommenced Aftermarket Rear Sway Bars among KE70 Owners (e.g. whiteline etc.) (Aim is for something about 18-20mm, thicker than stock anyway)

 

- Also What are peoples thoughs on SuperPro Bushings when I do the job, any preferred brands/Reccomendations

The List of the bushings I plan on buying are as follows...

- Castor Rod Bushes

- LCA's (Lower Control Arm) Bushes

- Upper Trailing Arm Bushes

- Lower Trailing Arm Bushes

- Panhard Rod Bushes (Should I get a Aftermarket Panhard rod?...If so again any Reccomendation/Preferences)

 

If anyone would Like a image...Found this...Yes its from ebay may as well put the link (I will be Buying direct..cut out the middle man/corporation)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suits-Toyota-Corolla-KE70-KE71-KE72-SUPER-PRO-Front-Rear-Suspension-Bush-Kit-/302164680437?hash=item465a6b1ef5:m:mNYpQnLiyNYjumubUHhlZeg

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Members dont see this ad

It's more complicated than that of course. I gather your car is a daily driver, and what you do with swaybars is influenced by spring rates, camber and tire size & compound etc. Then what you are hoping to achieve.

 

As a reasonable guesstimate, the trd bars for an AE86 are 24mm front and 16mm rear.

 

If you lower the rear, an adjustable pan hard rod is a good idea to enable you to recentre the diff relative to the body. Then what do you do about the trailing arms etc etc etc ...........

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As mentioned in my earlier topic "Lowering my KE70" I plan on putting 30mm lower King Springs on all 4 corners. (Spring numbers are Front: KFRL-16...Rear: KTRL-34, I'll Admit I can't remember spring rate all I do know is that they are 'Progrssive' probably has nothing to do with the topic, but its here)

The car is a daily but intend it be used (at somepoint) on a open track day or so, plus I intend to put the rear sway bar and bushes to tighten up the feel of the car

Wheels and tyres will be (Waiting for my order at Motorsport Wheels and Tyres at Dandenong) 15x6 Performance Superlites with 195/50R15 (either Dunlop LeMans or TOYO T1R's or Pirelli P1 CINTS, Depending which of the 3 is most recommended) Camberwise I'm not planning on any real negative camber, It will stay to stock Specifications once lowered, possibly may add a little negative camber a few days before a planned track day.

 

AJPS have 16mm Rear Sway Bars, Whiteline have 18mm. No real Plans on putting a Front Sway Bar, stock one seems to be doing a good job (Reason for rear sway bar is to take out, at least a bit of understeer)

 

A few KE70 owners here (to my knowledge anyway so PLEASE don't hate me for being wrong) have done similar mods for daily drivers which see some...fun time... at a track etc.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go the Whiteline 18mm rear sway. I'm running an aftermarket Celcia one which takes it up around that. Someone on here had a run of 19mm ones made, maybe he has one left.

 

Corona front LCAs for getting rid of the positive camber, makes it pretty much zero.

 

Toyos I prefer, used them for years on the Altezza, T1Rs. Hopefully Superlite live up to their name, you want the lughtest rims/tyres you can get.

 

I'm not sure if castor bushes will do much, they don't work that hard. LCA bushes yes, and check the outer balljoint of the LCA carefully. They can be replaced easily.

 

Remove the lower washer of the top front sway bush and put a couple of springs in there. That allows the front to roll a little to get initial turn-in, then the springs make the sway bar work. File out the washer hole so it floats up and down.

 

Find a banjo style T-series diff & start saving for an LSD !

post-7544-0-02638300-1483910335.jpg

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replace all the bushes with anything rubber you like. Rrailing arm bushes made a huge difference in my car.

 

Buy the cheapest adjustable panhard you can, no real advantage to anything expensive. The whiteline one you have to take one end off to adjust it. Some people dislike this, i liked it as there was no way it could come undone by itself. And also you only set it once and forget about it.

 

The big thing thouvh with major suspension changes (springs, swaybars, shocks, LCAs) is not too change too much at once. Ke70 is a light car so small changes make big differences.

 

I persoannly would put your wheels and tyres on, change the bushes and panhard rod, fit your springs and shocks and see how it goes. Only then decide if you need LCAs and sway bars.

 

Ideally you want as little sway bar as possible yo keep your independantness. You will often find racecars run no sway bar to gain grip. Its all a trade off and unfortunately there is no one answer.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgraded sway bars in my experience are an utter waste of time on a ke70. Car drives well without a rear one, so stock is fine with good bushes, I prefer a stock one with good bushes on the T series rear end. With a bigger diff, you get more inertia at play, so if you do a diff upgrade you may find the relationship between the motion of the diff and the body is in need of more control, then in that case you can add more stiffness, but usually this is within the margin of feel a change from rubber to urethane would give. If you add a big swaybar you increase the effect of the steering input on the rear axle, so the car might feel more powerful, but its just going to be less efficient at putting the small amount of power a ke70 has to the ground, more inclined to over steer, and just generally have less manners.

 

Front swaybars are just a pointless as ʞ©$ɟ mod, all the bar sizes are way too big for anything street driven, stock corolla sizes are fine here even almost too stiff. They just create under steer, everyone who buys an adjustable one just runs it on full loose setting until they go to track with slicks, big brakes and added power and maybe then they may be able to flex it, otherwise its just going to stop the suspension behaving as its designed and create under steer. You need a certain amount of flex and roll to hold on and plant the cambered wheels flat on the ground, most morons set their alignment up for looks, IE low as ʞ©$ɟ, no travel, to stiff everything, and no droop, thick swaybars and too much neg camber and caster, its just a case of too much in every category.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit
spelling fairy
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LittleRedSpirit I completely agree with front sway bars being too thick, With the new wheels and tyres and the whiteline bar altezza mentions I believe manners won't be too much of an issue and have no idea how altezza somehow guessed that I do plan to find a LSD...eventually.

 

I will keep in mind all that is mentioned here

 

Altezza should I just replace the balljoint at the same time I do the bushes...Don't Plan to do the LCA's just the bushes for them

 

Hopefully this can help others...like I always say

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully this can help others...like I always say

 

If you search for stuff on the site in the appropriate area you will find that we have discussed this at least infinty times over the last 10 years. On the forums the info stays there as opposed to facebook where it just rolls into obscurity.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recently sold off my bling adjustable white line bars and have gone for TRD non adjustable instead. It's a trap going too big a bar on the back as the suspension can't work to keep the tyre patch in contact with the road. If you do put an lsd in, a fantastic improvement, it does tend to induce understeer and you need to increase the rear bar accordingly.

 

I've always liked having a larger bar on the front, with the view that a rear bar complements this. This worked well for me in years past in a wide range of club Motorsport. In a perfect world we would endlessly adjust spring rates and bar sizes to get it right, but who can afford that.

 

There is no doubt that a poorly setup car is very unpleasant to drive at speed, and subtle changes can transform things. But many people just specify hard everywhere and wonder why it doesn't handle. Often after they go off the road backwards.

 

Bottomed out adjustable struts with super hard springs and adjustable dampers at maximum hard does not make for a good handling car.

 

I'm intrigued by this helper spring idea!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only Problem I have with TRD parts is...where the bloody hell do I get my hands on them

The reason I'm asking about the rear bar is for preparing the car before getting a LSD...btw anyone know if there are any TRD ones available (mines a Borg Warner Diff)

Yea did forget to mention I am curious about the helper spring idea, Most likely wont use it for my current car, But Its a though to be curious for

 

The Whiteline Bar I'm thinking about is 18mm (BTR25R) non-adjustable

Unfortunately I'm the kind of person who likes to prepare for the future, which as much as I hate to say it, is an absolute pain in the ass

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you don't need to get TRD.

 

If I was you, I would sort your springs and shocks and see how it turns out. Drive it for a bit, do an event (join TCCAV!) so you can push it harder. Then work out where to go from there.

 

No rush

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Altezza should I just replace the balljoint at the same time I do the bushes...Don't Plan to do the LCA's just the bushes for them

 

Check them & see if they are worn.

 

Jack up the LCA and watch the LCA-balljoint movement, or feel it as you lift the LCA. I've only replaced one set of the 4 sets of LCAs I have.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry Parrot I should of been more specific

 

I meant TRD parts in general, I sometimes hear TRD parts catalogue or a TRD part

I have No idea where to get my hands on TRD stuff in general

Edited by KaboomJohn111
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actual TRD performance parts are pretty difficult to get a hold of for 80's models. The focus is current models, and then things like stickers, gear knobs and horn pushes

 

Yahoo Japan is a good place to find some stuff.

 

But for your bushes, just get whatever. Spend a bit of time learning how to install, lubricate and how and how not to torque them up.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now