kangaroosa

Heres a few corolla's being thrashed to within an inch of their lives. http://thrashcar.com/articles/article.asp?articleID=140

I'm not a fan of bodykits and that abortion has just re-confirmed my opinion. It kinda looks like a VK Walkinshaw bodykit gone wrong. (Not that the Walkinshaw bodykit was any good to start off with). Is it just me, or do the rear rims look to wide for the tyres. Kinda looks like the tyres are stretched out.

I have a VDO tacho installed in my car. It worked fine with the standard points style ignition, but since i changed over to an electronic ignition with my 5k, the tacho doesnt work. I've read that the negative wire from the tacho may have to be wired in series with the negative wire that goes to the coil. The tacho also has five switches on the back. I realise that these switches have to be in the correst position. But what positions are right - the only info i could find related solely to tacho's with 6 switches. There are 4 electrical terminals on the back of the tacho too. Thanks in advance.

I guess the main reason that i have never gone with electrical gauges in the past is because i've been told that they are not as accurate as mechanical. Is this true and if so, hot far off accurate are they. Since you all recommend electrical gauges, i guess they are accurate enough. Finally, are the electrical gauges more expensive or cheaper than mechanical gauges. The prices that i gathered were for mechanical. I really only need oil pressure and water temp. I recently had a ammeter and vacuum, but never found them to be that useful (for everyday use that is).

My big port head cost me $120 to purchase initially Then $800 for a race port, dual valve springs, new valve guides and bigger valves. My head was in very good condition with all the water jacket openings in near new condition. The bloke who did my head quoted my the same price to port a Non big port head of any type. This is due to the fact that they fully reco the head regardless of what condition its in when you drop it off to him. There is also alot more labour involved to port a small port head. So your up for the port job, bigger valves and new seats, dual valve springs(if your running a high lift cam) and new valve guides. This bloke doesnt like to do half jobs if the head is going on a worked motor.

Well it seems my set of 3 gauges for $45 was too good a deal. The oil pressure reads 10-20psi too low, and the temp gauge reads 25 degrees to low. "You get what you pay for" (i hear all of you saying that right now). So i have priced some autometer gauges. Oil pressure gauge is $125 and water temp gauge is $175. In the Speco range i can get the oil pressure gauge for $28 and water temp is $28. Just wondering if anyone has the speco gauges and are they accurate? The Speco gauges are featured in Repco's latest catalogue. Mechanical or Electronic - What is everyones preference? I've read a previous post discussing the legalities of in cabin mechanical gauges and this doesnt bother me in the slightest. So i'm open to either type of gauge. Whats the deal with the fuel mixture gauges - are they a universal thing, or are they programable. Will the gauge be just as accurate on a worked 5k compared to a standard 3k. I have no idea how they work, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. All i'm after is accuracy basically, and preferably not $125 for one gauge.

Sorry - I forgot to add this. It might help answer the question about the lifters. The standard hydraulic 5k cam can be reground to a solid cam spec, with a nice set of holden lifters to match. I used to find that my worked 4k was worse to drive than the 5k. The 4k had bugger all power down low (eg. under 2700rpm), but then it pulled hard from then right up to 6000rpm. The 5k has power right from the second you leave the lights. Engine Specs are as follows: - Large port, big valve head. Double valve springs. - Gemini Pistons 82mm Bore. Hypertec Pistons machined to reduce compression to 9.5:1 - Datsun 1200 pushrods - Fully Balanced - Double row timing chain - Crow solid cam and lifters (Lifters are Holden brand. Apparently the 6cyl, 8cyl and chev types are all pretty much the same). Apparently?? - King Bearings - Hastings Rings - Standard conrods and crank. - 12" high powered thermo fan. Davies Craig brand. - 3 Row radiator

I have just put a 5k with the big port head into my ke30 and would never go back to a 4k. The motor cost me $2000 fully assembled. If you want some power, then the 5k is the way to go. Its got more torque than the 4k, so it pulls alot harder. My driveline is standard and as yet i havent broken anything yet. I have a single DGAV weber off a 2Litre and has been reliable - yet not very efficient. In a few weeks i'm changing over to the twin carb sprinter setup, so hopefully i can have a bit more to say on that topic in the near future. My 5k is pulling roughly 130hp and 120lb-ft of torque. (calculated from dyno software - which concurs with the engine builder, as his 5k used to pull around 140hp mark. So i guess what i'm trying to say is, Ditch the 4k and grab a 5k.

I'm currently running a single dgv weber on the standard curved runner. The cars got great low end and mid range power, but is lacking higher in the rev range. That reminds me, i have to get my tacho working again. Since i changed over to the electronic ignition, the tacho hasnt worked. I read a few articles on rewiring the connection of the neg wire to the coil and the neg wire from the tacho in SERIES - then setting different switch positions on the back of the tacho. Any ideas? The tacho is not standard and doesnt have a name stamped on it. It was given to me second hand from a friend. Its got 5 switches on the back. The upper position for the switches are labeled OPEN. There are also 4 terminals on the back that accept terminals for the neg wire, +wire etc.

I already have the standard plastic fan installed, along with the shroud. With the new radiator it never got over 1/2 on the temp gauge in 34degree weather today. I've got it booked in tommorow to have a muffler installed to quieten down a little. Also i scored a sprinter twin carb manifold with carbs and linkages from a toyota collector. Which will be installed after the new motor is run in.

I see the point your making with the fan on the inside - But taking into consideration my laziness and lack of motivation to make a shroud, i'll probably keep it how it is. The engine builder used to have a similar motor and he never had overheating problems with a standard radiator. So i guess i should be ok with a 3 row radiator *Fingers crossed*. The only reason i will put the thermo fan on the fan, is to help cool the car when i get stuck at a set of lights. I'm about to go out and its about 32 degrees here, so i'll see how warm she gets.

I stumbled across this page and thought it might be useful to somebody. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/stepho/engcodes.htm

Yeah it is a big motor isnt it - Not exactly what i was looking for, but i'm just happy that its working. I forgot to post the flow figures for my head. I'll get around to that later today. I have installed the standard fan and shroud. Also my thermostat starts opening at 82degree's C. The bloke that did my radiator said that this is the lowest one he can get for my car. The car now run's at half on my standard temp gauge. Which is roughly 85degrees in the top of the radiator. I have the day off work today so i am going to: - change over the engine number on my rego sticker - Get prices from local exhaust shops for a newer quieter exhaust - Fit the thermo fan to the front of the radiator (grill side) just incase she decides to get warm when i'm stuck in traffic. It's been around 37degrees here in melbourne for the past few days and today seems to be no different. That should keep me busy.

As promised, here are the new cam specs. I believe the new lifters are also supplied by Crow cams. http://www.rollaclub.com/gallery/index.php...mall.JPG&idx=44 and here is the damaged lifter which i took as a momento. The pic doesnt quiet capture the extent of damage. Never the less you can see that its not perfect. http://www.rollaclub.com/gallery/index.php...mall.JPG&idx=22 Engine Specs are as follows: - Large port, big valve head. Double valve springs. - Gemini Pistons 82mm Bore. Hypertec Pistons machined to reduce compression to 9.5:1 - Datsun 1200 pushrods - Fully Balanced - Double row timing chain - Crow solid cam and lifters (Lifters are Holden brand. Apparently the 6cyl, 8cyl and chev types are all pretty much the same). Apparently?? - King Bearings - Hastings Rings - Standard conrods and crank. - 12" high powered thermo fan. Davies Craig brand. - 3 Row radiator

So i finally got my corolla back this afternoon. Seems it was dodgy pushrod that caused all the drama's in the start. Infact it even chewed the crap out of the matching lifter and cam lobe. So the cam has been replaced along with a complete NEW set of push rods, NEW lifters and new threaded clearance adjusters. I guess the engine builder didn't make any profit on this motor. He was also kind enough to upgrade my new cam grind to a speedway spec - unknown to me until i picked it up. I can finally say that i'm happy with the power that the new motor puts out - although a nice carby setup would make my day. Its still very tappety (too tappety for my liking), but i was told to drive it for three weeks to let everything bed in, and then adjust all the clearances again. Now i think i should bite the bullet and have the exhaust redone to make her a bit quieter. At the moment its way too loud for my liking. My old 4k used to be nice and acceptable - but the 5k is just in your face. Besides, if a copper pulls me over and slaps a deffective notice on my car, its going to cost me a whole heap more to get all the other shit fixed. I can post the new engine specs up later if there is anyone who is interested.

Nope i've never had it tested. I borowed a mates XY GT a few years ago. It had twin exhaust with a single straight through muffler on each pipe - one day the the muffler on the left exploded open whilst i was driving it. It was already illegally loud, but as soon as that happened it was popping on every downshift and making a shit load of noise. But unfortunately i got busted by the EPA while i was driving it back to him - you reckon i was pissed off. At the time he had to either fix the problem and then get it tested or take the car off the road. If he kept driving the car and he got caught again, it was about a $500 fine for the first offence. He chose to take it off the road and do a full restore job on it. Maybe i'll just wait for a letter to fix my exhaust and then i'll get it tested. I think the max db is around 94 or 96db isnt it? So 114db is your current record - I'll see if i can give that figure a nudge, hehe.

Ground Clearance is about 90mm to the exhaust and about 120mm to the sill. The rear has got a few inches of travel still, mainly due to me chopping the bump stops and reshaping them so that they look original. The extractors and exhaust were done when i first got the car, which was obviously before it was lowered. Having said this, the exhaust shop blokes were not to fussy when it came to tucking the exhaust up out of the way, so if i could be bothered paying to have the exhaust redone, i would get it set up nicely. I might have to get something done about the exhaust in the future as this new 5k makes it pretty bloody loud. At idle the car is deep and lumpy, and when i went for a spin around the block, my mate said he could hear every gear change right around the block. I'm happy with exhaust note - I don't think i can say the same for my neighbours. I remember seeing pics of a 4 door ke30, yellow with race seats and 4 blokes sitting in the back to lower it - Who's car is that? I wanted to ask what mags are on it and if they are the same stud pattern as mine - I saw the disc rotors on the back so i'm guessing the stud pattern is different - Nice wheels though.

If your talking about the pic of the engine bay..........its not my car. I posted the pic and then pasted the link here - but when i checked it later, the picture had changed. I mentioned the stuff up in a message below the original. I hope that this is what you were talking about, concerning the manifold on the wrong side - that first pic is of a car that i have never even seen before.

The interior was actually given to me - Well.. the seats cost me a slab of beer and the steering wheel cost $100 bucks. A P plater chick in the street behind me spent thousands on her ke30 4 door (The seats, Steering wheel, Gear Shifter, Carpets, Reskinned dash etc) She rolled the car and couldnt find anyone that wanted to buy it. In the end her mum saw me around the steets and followed me home one day and offered me the whole car if i came and picked it up. Good find ..hey. As for the dash, i fixed all of that up with a new pioneer mp3 player and gauges. I also made new door trims, as the other car was a 4 door. The fabric is the same velour and design as an AU XR6 or XR8 Ford.

Hey guys - Thanks for the postive feedback. The front has still got about 1 1/2" of travel - the springs are stiff as all buggery, so it has never bottomed out on me yet. Yes its still the same yellow. Its actually Lemon Yellow Tinter in acrylic. I've only been pulled over once in about 5 years of having the car lowerwed - it was a motorbike copper that saw me at a set of lights (i saw him looking at me so when i was out of sight enough, i put my foot into it, and tried to duck into a side street - the prick was up my bum with 10 seconds hehe. I just played stupid and innocent (But officer i didnt do it, i paid ("Insert Fake Company Here") to lower it, they told me it was legal) In the end he let me off with a warning and told me that other coppers wouldnt be so leanient in future. But i have never been pulled over since, and that was a good 4 years ago. So i went to the engine builder this arvo and it seems i've rubbed a lobe off the cam. The engines completely out of the car and he's already got another cam and sent it off regrinding. It seems the original cam lobe was not centred below the lifter bore and so only half of the lifter was in contact with cam....strange i know, but i saw it with my own eyes. Oh well, at least now i get my first oil change for free. He hopes to have the car back to me by friday....depending on when the cam comes back.

Sorry guys - that first link above worked an hour ago - but now its changes to an engine bay from another car- The other 2 should still be ok Heres the real link for the first pic http://www.rollaclub.com/gallery/index.php...ide.jpg&idx=203

Well this first pic is about 12months old - I recently resprayed the car yellow again, but havent got around around to rubbing it back and bufffing it ....yes i used acrylic. My boss kindly gave me *wink wink* a drum of thinners, spray gun, masking tape and sandaper - so all it cost me was $140 for the paint. The back of the car is also a little lower now. http://www.rollaclub.com/gallery/index.php...ide.jpg&idx=202 Heres the current dash setup http://www.rollaclub.com/gallery/public_up...0-0009a_IMG.JPG Heres the Interior http://www.rollaclub.com/gallery/public_up...0-0045a_IMG.JPG

Yeah the contacts would be good, thanks. I'm still working on getting some pics up here - currently searching the archives to find out how i can post pics from my computer and not a website.

Redwarf - I hope your right about the motor having plenty of grunt. I'm sick and tired of P plater commodores hosing me off at the lights. I should mention my HATE of commodores - especially the ones driven by P platers. No i havent had anything to do with the Toyota club in melbourne. I've been told by people that i should join a club, but i have never looked into it. I might see if i can post a pic of car, its basically stock outside except for some new paint.

Sorry i forgot to mention the head was an extra $800 (race port, bigger valves, twin valve springs) on top of the $1200 for the motor. So its about $2000 all up. I dropped the car into him after work and he's going to have a look at it tommorow. It will be interesting to see whats causing the problem. I should also mention that he was cool about the whole situation. I've been bad mouthing him on here, but thats just my frustration. He had a quick look at the motor whilst i was there - but to diagnose it properly, he obviously has to pull the push rod and lifter out- which is his job for tommorow. I'll fill you guys in later, when i hear more.