kangaroosa

Lynx SU Manifold Prices Part No.M117 Induction Manifold TOYOTA Corolla 2 1-1/2" SU's Ex GST $100 Incl GST $110.00 RRP. $210.00 Lynx Twin DCOE Weber Manifold Price Part No. M120 Induction Manifold Corolla 1100 1200cc 2 DCOE Webers Ex GST $180 Incl GST $198.00 RRP. $295.00 Product Listing and Prices for Lynx Corp. http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/ourproducts/pdf...posals.htm#LYNX The following quote was an answer from the sales division at Lynx in relation to whether they had any carbs that they could ship with the manifold to complete the set. "At the moment we only have a pair of 40 DCOM Weber Carburettors as new 40 DCOE's are very hard to obtain, the 40 DCOM come complete with some linkages and are priced at $1,700.00 so you may find it better to shop around and try and buy some 40 DCOE's second hand".

Just thought that i'd add the latest prices for Redline intake manifolds and linkages to suit "K" motors for anyone else looking to go down this path. Twin DCOE Manifold and Linkages Prices Manifold P/No.12-3062 $222.96 Linkage Kit P/No.42-2562 $153.74 Single DCOE Manifold and Linkage Prices Manifold P/No. 12-3112 $226.99 Linkage Kit P/No.42-2612 $101.99 I can't justify or afford the cost of setting up twin carbs at the moment. So i think i'm going with a single DCOE on the redline manifold. I figure its gotta be better than a standard carby on the original corolla manifold.

I think she belongs in this thread. Kinda feel sorry for her though. http://www.big-boys.com/articles/nationalanthem.html

I was looking through the vicroads site to get information on roadworthiness requirements. (eg. ride height, exhaust outlets....) and here it is. CLICK

I just found this site. Its "Lynx Manifolds and Adaptors". Theres two manifolds for corolla's: Twin 1 1/2" SU's and Twin DCOE Webers. (not sure if the SU manifold is for "K" motors). http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/ourproducts/pdf...posals.htm#LYNX or http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/

Thanks felix for the info. I'll leave it to the more knowledgable guys on here for an opinion on that. I'm still kickin back taking it all in, and weighing up my choices from everyones opinions. Twin SU's - From the pics i've seen, it doesnt look like the SU's have the same bolt pattern as DCOE's. So what manifold do people use for the su's - If it custom, you can scratch the idea of SU's.

10500rpm without any holes in the block. Not a bad effort, without even trying hehe. That reminds me - I gotta buy a new Tacho. Mine hasnt worked ever since i swapped over to electronic ignition with the 5k. I emailed VDO numerous times and didnt even get a reply. The tacho is about 10years old - so i guess it wouldnt hurt to upgrade.

LOL -Street Rod, I love it. - I used to race home from school to play that game. 7500RPM seems pretty high (but you know your stuff) - I don't think i have taken any of my motors that high. 6000-6250RPM and the engine sounds like its going to start spitting parts out - hehe. I went for a more modest 6500RPM - 1544cc -Best Power Weber 40 DCOE - 33mm chokes - 135 mains

Thanks TRD, i'll make sure that i look out for those stamped letters on the carb. What happened to all the carbs in the trading post? Years ago there used to be lists of them -Now there is one dellorto 40dhla for $250. Not even a weber in sight.

I just had a thought - A bloke i work with owns an Alfa Romeo. They run downdraft and sidedraft webers standard (depending on the year and model). I visited his spare parts bloke a few weeks ago and priced a a single DGV weber at $120. I should go back and see what price he's willing to part with 2 sidedrafts. The alfa sud's came in a 1.7L motor, so you would imagine that the carb is somewhere close to what i need.

I've got brand new dual valve springs fitted, so there is no problem with valve bounce. So if i went down the side draft path, Who can reccommend a decent fuel pump and regulator that is both affordable and reliable. OK - So the only thing worying me now is the varying opinions on fuel efficiency. I know the Redwrf has always got his right foot through the firewall, so obviously the car is going to drink. But then people say if i drive it normally it should be fine - which i tend to agree with. Wouldnt anyone care to enlighten me on what fuel consumtion i should expect to get with twins (driving around town). I used to get 10km/L from my untuned weber. P.S - I will be finding another workshop. A car shouldn't go in untuned with 56rwkw and comes out tuned with "48ish" rwkw. It just doesn't make sense to me.

Yeah i'm not quiet sure why the engine builder picked such a big cam. Now is it possible to regrind my existing cam back to a smaller cam profile - i would imagine it depends on how much meat is left on the lobes... right? 65rwkw - you got yourself a little rocket there. Well if your getting that out of a 3K setup for racing.......i would be hoping to get a bit more than from my 5K right?

I just remember purchasing the rings years ago and for some reason chrome molley seemed very familiar - it definately had molley in the name somewhere. They must have been just molley then. Maybe i'm thinking of push bike frames or something... hrmm i dunno. I definately going with a single side draft - That has been decided. As for the smaller cam - I'll might get the engine engine builder to see what he can do when when i drop off the engine for him to fix the rings. When you say a smaller cam - You mean smaller lift? Different advertised timing? I love the sound of a Lopey engine and preferably don't want to lose that. I don't know all the technical stuff about cams but the engine builder said that the cam should work from 2500RPM up to 5500RPM. I appreciate anyones opinion on here - especially the people that have rooted around with these engines for many years. I was comparing my cam to the tighe cam grinds, and nothing is even similar to mine. That is just by comparing valve opening times. I assume my cam is up the "Race" end of the scale as far as cams go.

I like the kid next in line - He's thinking OMFG.

I used to drive an XY GT replica a few years back. Canary Yellow, with black GT stripes up the bonnet and the superoo sticker stripes down the side. Mmmm the good ol days, hehe. Unfortunatly it wasn'y my car, I borrowed it from a mate for a while till i had my car going. That skinhead is NOT me in the pic BTW. Some of the blokes i used to hang around with and their cars can be found at the website below. Scroll down the page and Click on Dazza's Rolla - Thats my car about 6-7 years ago. If you after a laugh - Check out Blacki and his premier. Bloody useless as a driver. His prem has had more hits than elvis. http://members.optushome.com.au/wildwog/ The new improved rolla can be found in the rolla club member rides.

The cam specs for TRD.

The RPM thingy wasnt hooked up, so ignore the RPM figures. I know it was run in 4th gear at a max speed of 134km/h. As i said before, the air/fuel ratio shows a reading of 10 in some areas - It was actually still dropping to a min of 6, but the program doesnt print it that low.

The lower lines are the air/fuel ratio's for the two runs. I'm told that the line should be straight (horizontally) and up around the 14 region. The HUGE drop off is where its runs waaay rich. They tried a standard Aisan carb to test whether it was due to carburation or cam related. The standard Aisan had the same results and so they reckon its cam related (not making enough vaccuum in a 1000rpm range). The program only prints out figures as low as 10 AFR:P, but the screen showed the weber dropped right down to 6 on the graph. Although there was never a hesitation or flatspot with the weber - It went like stink, but the oil usage and the plumes of black smoke when booted it prompted me to investigate further and thats what i found....too rich. ATM i have a rejetted aisan which goes ok - but not as good as the weber.

aHH JESUS - I finally make up my mind and a whole heap of other offers get thrown up. LOL - Just kidding guys. I don't want to spend big dollars on a twin carb setup - which basically rules out any twin side draft carb setup. So i can scratch that idea from the list. I'd be happy with a single side draft that is nice to drive and does the job. Xany is most welcome to the Dellorto's - I have been told that parts for Dellorto's are either to expensive or few and far between, compared to weber's. (But thats only one dyno shops opinion). The Dyno shop i was reccommened is "Rank Rotary" in Moorabbin, VIC. As the name says, they specialize in rotaries (and bloody quick ones at that), and they are also well known for being experts in Weber tuning (thats not my opinion-hehe). The engine was built by an engine shop and they assured me that the boss had this combo in his car years ago, and it flew. The cam is actually bigger than planned. The first cam was more mild but it took a lobe off and killed a lifter during the first 10mins of it life (strange, but the exhaust lobe on cyl 3 was actually offset by half a lobe when u look down the lifter bore). So they replaced the cam with a speedway grind from memory (don't ask me why). Yes its a road car and at the moment its very driveable - I actually think my 4k was more lopey than my 5k. I used to get at least 1 person a week pull up next to me at the lights and ask if i had a Rotary in it. As for the glazed rings - Many people tend to agree with the theory that if your carb is running waaaay rich, then the excessive petrol washes the oil off your bores and glazes up your rings. I had this carb on my 4K and had no drama's - I also had Chrome Molley rings in it for 4 years and to this day it never used one drop of oil and had 165ish PSI on all the pots. I've had nothing but trouble with this 5K. 56rwkw doesnt seem alot to me, That equates to 75rwhp. 15%-17% loss in power through drive train with a manual, so roughly = 88-90hp at the flywheel (did i do the maths right? Please don't bag me too much if i'm waaay of the mark here). I'll include the dyno sheet from the original run that diagnosed it as running rich. Also included will be the cam specs for TRD.

I know deep down that twins are the best option - At the moment i'm still doing the maths on both the single and twin setup. The Damn Government and Petrol taxes aren't helping either. I just filled up for $1.15/L premium ulp. Single carb = Roughly (Manifold $250ish from memory?? + Carb $250 + Carb Tuning and Dyno $150) = $670 Twin Carb = (Manifold $270ish + 2xCarbs $500 + Fuel Pump and Regulator??? + Carb tuning and Dyno $200ish) = $1500+ (Its worth as much as the motor and about twice what i'm willing to spend on the car). I'm seriously leaning towards the single sidedraft setup after hearing what you just said Jamie. Damn reality sucks. I know if i spend $1500 on twins and then double my fuel bill, i'm not going to be very happy. So i think i just talked myself into a single and see how she goes. Then the final step is to pull the engine out for the 3rd time in 6 months to have it re-ringed as she is using oil. The engine builder suspects glazed rings from my 32/36 DGV weber running way too rich. Ohh well, more money. Thanks again to everyone who helped me out with their advice. On a final note- If this was your motor (everyone), how many rear wheel kW would you be expecting or be happy with? I'm a little dissapointed with the 56rwkw that it pulled on the dyno.

why?? if there to big you're going to be in trouble with side draughts. personally i'd be putting twin 40mm side draughts on with 32mm venturis, i used to run these on 4k's, so on a 5k it should be prefect. one choke per cylinder you can't go wrong. Sorry - I meant the dyno shop said that they are too big in the venturi's. The sentence was meant read "As i found OUT that a 32/36 DGV was too big in the venturi's". I think i'll be going somewhere else to get the side drafts tuned. The car went in with 56rwkw (full rich weber and glazed rings) - Then once they were finished tuning it, it had 48rwkw (Hrmmm, Somethings not right). What was your mileage like with the twins on the 4K? The final thing with twins - Is it hard to get them to meet pollution regulations etc? I would assume not. If they are tuned professionally that is. So what your saying is that one side draft carb will have 2 venturi's - both of the venturi's are 32mm each - So 4x32mm venturi's as a complete set if i ran twins. It's just that i've never dealt with side drafts (only down draft - which have had different sized venturi's from primary to secondary). Is the standard mechanical fuel pump suitable to run the twins?

Yes - The Crow Cams page is the specs of the cam i am running currently. Firstly - What is the difference between a 40 and 45 DCOE. I would assume the 45 is for a bigger motor than the 40, but is it the venturi's that are different or not? I guess what i'm looking for is the car to go well - i've spent about $2000 to date on this motor and all the little bits and pieces that go with it. So i want to finish it off with a nice carb setup. If a single carb will give me this -then that is the path i will take. So in your opinion, will a single carb do that for me. I was getting 10km/L with a full rich 32/36 DGV weber (before it was tuned). What is your mileage with the twins on your 3K? I don't mind the car using a bit more fuel (with bigger venturi's) if its making reasonable power, compared to smaller ones. I just want it reach somewhere near its full potential. The reason he suggested buying a carb with the smallest venturi's was to ensure that he could get it set up. What i mean is - He can always machine the venturies out to a bigger size if need be. But you can't take a 32mm venturi and make it into a 28mm venturi. Sounds like the round about way of doing it, but its just to ensure that i don't buy a carb that is too big for my car. As i found that a 32/36 DGV was too big in the venturi's. Sorry this was so long, but i want to get my head around this before i start shopping.

I just visited the Dyno shop and the bloke reccommends a single Weber 40 DCOE with the smallest venturi's possible. He can always machine the smaller venturi's bigger. Apparently there are more parts available for the Weber compared to the Dellorto's. He can get different sized venturi's for the weber, whereas the Dellorto's have to be machined to the preferred size. So Weber shopping it is then. Thanks for the Help guys.

I'm thinking 1 carby should be enough. I would like to keep the cost down and also keep it simple. Unless anyone thinks 2 would be better (and not just to say that i have twin carbs), keeping in mind that its my everyday car. I read a thread on here that the Dellorto's come with a few different venturi sizes. Anyone got a suggestion as to what size venturi's i should be looking out for. Most of the engine specs should be listed below to aid you in making a suggestion.

Well its come time to sort out some carbs for my 5K. I was thinking of purchasing a Redline Intake Manifold to suit either one or two Weber 40 DCOE carbs. Has anyone seen or used these manifolds - If so, are they any good or worth the money? Weber DCOE's have the same bolt pattern as Dellorto DHLA's from what i've read. (Undecided as yet as to which brand of carb to go with) I'll speak to the bloke tuning my car to see what he reccommends as far as brands and number of carbs anyway.