Browland

Front gaurds are same apart from indicator hole positions. Bonnets are different, only the stamping patern on top. Early has a wide raised section down middle and a flatter front while late has a thin raised center with a pointed front. Are interchangeable. Grilles and headlight surrounds are different but interchangeable (bracket modification). Biggest difference is rear tail lights and bootlid. Early had narrower but taller tail lights and later had wider but shorter tailights. Major panel work required to change. Other slight differences are MPH speedo, heater controll panel, steel insert in windscreen rubbers instead of plastic and a few mounting brackets under car and engine bay. I think change over period is early 73 but not definate as it was well before I was born! In reality though with the rules you stated it should be ok as they are essentially the same body just minor cosmetic differences.

Good luck with the bike box holding up to it. Youve got over 4 times the weight and over double the traction area of tyres on the road, the three little dog teeth on the gears in the bike box wont last long. May have to look at getting custom wider gears for bike box with alot larger dog teeth on them. Only need it as two speed anyway so there will be plenty of room in there. Will probably last a little while but don't expect it to hande hard traffic light launches for long. Only expressing my experiences with bike engines in race cars. Good luck. Would have rather seen an RG500 in it though!

Honda F-15X jetski.

1X cable

The valve in the filter body is an oil filter bypass valve. If the filter becomes blocked the valve will open and oil will still flow to the oil gallerys. Works on pressure differential between the "dirty" oil and "clean" oil sides of the filter. The spring normaly keeps the valve shut but if the oil pressure before the filter is greater than the pressure in the oil gallerys after the filter (caused by blocked oil filter) the valve will open and let oil flow to the oil gallerys. Unfiltered oil is better than no oil.

Thats from one of A. Graham Bells books. His books are some of the best engine tuning books around. You could roughly map the advance curve using an adjustable timing light and the TDC mark of the engine and noting the timing figures at 1000RPM increments up to about 4-5000. By then full centrifigal advance would be reached. You could always run it on Methanol!!

hey brett, I bougth the car with the interior retrimmed, the previous got it done. Hes a member on here, username is KE20ME maybe shoot him a PM Thanks, Yeah, I bought some parts off Henry a while a go. Ill give him a try.

Use circlip pliers

Hi just wondering were the seats already done when you bought the car or did you get them re-uphulstered? If so do you remember the name of the place that did them. Most places i have asked said its to hard to put the lines in them but yours look as close to factory i have seen. Thanks Brett.

Yep. in the shed, might use it oneday. Got any parts left for KE20-25. I'm interested in anything.

Nope. K50 input shaft is held in with the cast housing inside bellhousing. Whole lot comes out and seal is pushed out through back of it after removing input shaft from housing. To get the housing/input shaft assembly out you need to drop the countershaft down which requires removal of the extension housing and bottom pan. don't drop the needle rollers out the inside of the inputshaft either!

Yep thats fine. Just the satisfaction of someone using these for "originality" is good enough for me. There not a high performance carburettor but factory go-fast parts look cool.

Yep that would be all. Gaskets, floats etc would be the same. Jets arn't something that normaly "wears out" unless alot of dirty fuel has passed through them. Just blow them out and they will be fine. Primary should be 083 and secondary 126. power jet size 55. Easy to work on. Just don't loose any small parts and use your photos for reference if your unsure of reassembly. Good luck.

Just use the jets already in your carbies. Just don't damage them when removing. Give them a tap with a punch before you attempt to unscrew. Just clean with carby cleaner and compressed air. don't attempt to poke wire or drill bits in the holes. If the part number tags on the carbies are still original they are KE2# JDM ones by my KE2# parts book. Would take a picture of the page for you to prove it but i don't have a camera or scanner handy. If you desparatly want to see it ill try and get it done. Id say they are still original, looking at the second lot of pictures as everything is still there, even the correct wire clips on the rubber hose! don't forget to remove the brokel idle mixture screw in the front carby! Genuine Kit number from Toyota is 04211-24013, good luck with that one, you never know!!