neil

more like june july quinny

what computer are you running and other electrical specs? you don't even need and AFM to make it run good. I'm running a wolf3d on my 5k with custom inlet. I'm thinking shit tune, faulty fuel regulator possibly. mainly all about the tune

its still happening boys, just lots to r&d at the moment. plus there is a full time job to work around. still working on what looks best for the sheet metal fabrication. then there is pedals, ke70 steering colum to suit the rack, another slight mod for the fire wall for that and the hydro clutch, intercooler and radiator combo. so on and so on, but getting there. nutting this all out is all part of the fun. new posts in the coming weeks. cheers for the strong intrest.

ive done the calculations and my (pully size ratio) = 1.124 for 15psi at 6500rpm does that mean that my top pully which is 115mm needs to be timesed by 1.124 to get the size of my bottom pully?? it seems that there is a little maths missing to that formular??? CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio) Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904. EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi. cheers

i need some help with some maths lads. i have EVERYTHING but a bottom pully for a wolf 3d EFI sc14 intercooled 5K. my previous pullys were sold some time ago and i never got the measurements for the 16psi it was creating. this time I'm wanting to run the standard magnetic clutch instead of a throttle body to controll the boost via throttle position and various other WOLF3D capabilities. the blower pully size is 115mm. ive managed to find a couple of formulas but I'm not much of a maths wizz. ive looked everywhere for this info and the only thing i havent done is called some performance shops. making a bottom pully is a one off thing and has to be done right the first time. here is what i have found so far. it doesnt really give me the answers and I'm not sure i can trust it. When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised. The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection. To choose a setup you need to know :- 1. Engine capacity 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using. 3. Boost level desired I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below. FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi ) Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min. This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost. SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio) Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi) Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost) Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost. To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??) CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed) Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14. 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62 CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio) Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904. EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi. if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42litres/min! thanks

hi guys. ive just spent the last 3hrs looking on here at brake upgrades for a ke55. i currently have mx60 struts, vented discs, single piston brakes on the front. with r31 rear discs and a slightly larger master off a corona. due to a 1j going in i think i will need a little more braking power. will the xt130 twin piston calipers go straight on to the mx60 strut? is it worth it? i was thinking i would be better off going to the 4 spots off of the hilux that i hear some people have done. i havent been able to find the tech info as yet and was hoping someone could steer me in the right direction. cheers.

thanks guys. a little stir of the pot and things start to become clear. ill let you know how it all pans out. thanks again

this topic needs some real answers. possibily some without drilling out the holes. even better someone who has bought and fitted adjustable camber tops to a ke55 could give me a number to call or a name of supplier. I'm getting a little over googling every day and digging through thousands of posts only finding if, buts, and maybes help me out lads!

does anyone know of a bolt on product i can get my hands on to do the job? cheers

chassis rails are from mcdonalds brothers

thanks for the help so far guys. sump mods i like it! i will give that some thought. i have a day off tomorrow, back to thinking about conversions and less cooking.

I'm not condoning this activity but there is no VIN number recorded on old rollas until they go through regency. and as long as you put corresponding body year and shape plates on it, proving the rebirth will be difficult for the law. just throwing it out there!

Thought i would throw this one out there just in case there is someone who has done it before. A front mount power steering rack for a ke55? :party: I currently have a 1jzgte sitting in its final place and I'm wanting to put a rack on to make it steer easier. putting it behind the cross member is not an option as i already have a rear sump 1j and I'm not going to be setting it any further back to make room. i can swap struts from left to right to give it a front steering point. anything is possibe and i will be doing it for sure. ive done a couple of google searches but have not found much as yet. help me out lads.....

I'm in the process of putting a 1jz into my ke55. i have coilovers and a 4 link setup for the rear. now has come the time to create tubs for the rear, and doing so i need to decide on rim size.rear rim size is not a problem. i want to run 17' by 6 on the front but the tyre will surely touch my cressida struts on the bottom colar. 15" with the right offset and profile should fit.the car will be used mainly for track so 17" is my preferred choice. is there and other option other than coilovers to fit 17" thanks

looks sweet. i had a similar setup on my ke55. you should be looking a around 80rwkw. overheating wont be a problem because it is progressive boost and only hits 14 15 right up top.there is a pic of my efi setup floating around somewhere.

how do you know it is out if you don't know the gap? please buy a workshop manual. or even better cash up and get someone to put an electronic dizzy on. its one of the best mods u can do to any k motor.

i have a sortened ford diff with skyline axles already in place. no floor as yet and mini tubs going in. i know i need to make brackets to the diff and so on but i was hoping for some second hand recomendations in the way of sizing and spring rate. this project is well underway and fabrication is not a problem. don't worry there will be pics soon. even I'm scared!!

help me out rolla club.I'm putting a 4 link in my 1j ke55 and am keen to put coilovers in the rear as the leaf mounts have to be moved anyhow. ive looked in some other threads but couldnt find any good recomendations.

I'm a corolla lover and i can appreciate a good ke38 van, but... suggestion 1. remove the DC sticker idea 1./ bad idea. sunroof. sorry mate but in my eyes sun roofs ruin every car.

could be dodgy lifter, bent pushrod or pinging. all will make that tap tap tap. if its at idle you would think its the lifter or push rod. good luck

help. ive bought a soarer front cut with a 1jz 5spd in it. it runs smooth and is going into my ke55. lots of mods, money and work to be done, i know this. what will help me along the way would be a english wiring diagram for this model. there are jap versions available floating around and a cd i can get over the net for $110 as a workshop manual. I'm struggling to find a cheaper reliable source of information. cheers for any ideas

it most likely is the wiring dropping the voltage. check the fuseable link, does it look a little burnt?. also evry corolla ive seen has a relay to the starter to make sure its getting the 12 volts.

my 5k is supercharged with the s14 charger off the supra. i started with a carby set up then went to custom efi. honestly i would have to discourage you from doing it as the setup ends up being too costly for the amount of power gained. with the carby setup 70rwkw was it, at 12psi. even going to efi with a full rebuild, cam, wolf3d, intercooler, surge tank, forged pistons, cam, gapless rings, only gave me another 30kw. i am definately looking at a t25 now which should get me to around 130kw. its entirely up to u but i think that turbo is the better option.