TRD ke70

I think it's over a 1000kg's that it requires brakes, not sure if that's the load or gross.

Yip can be done, we tow our rally car around on a single axle trailer, so much lighter the an a tandem axle trailer. It has traveled thousands of KM's without any problems, and it doesn't sway, even at 140+.

Painted the door jams today, mmm nice shiny paint!!! Tomorrow will be finishing off the inside of the door and then they'll be bolted to the car. Inside the boot where the seal goes will be finished off and painted too, hopefully. Then all the panels can be bolted to the car and then the panel beating will begin, and if all goes well she will have a coat of paint within the next couple of weeks.

Waiting for the crank to arrive and then the engine can go to the machine shop, cams are here too. Roof vent arrived today, should be installed over xmas. Just need Teddy to come back so i can get the other vent now. Alloy pulley's have arrived as well.

No!! Wrong pin size. 5K = 18mm pin 4age = 20mm pin Use 4age rods.

Windscreen has been fitted so it wouldn't get broken, also the TRD sticker was done at the same time, now just have to keep it covered if we do any grinding. Tony has sanded the jams to get them ready for primer and paint Working on the doors at the moment, just primer-ed the doors, the insides will be painted then bolted to the car. Hopefully next weekend we'll be ready to fit the doors to the car. Still lots to do, but the goal is the have the shell/body work finished over xmas then we can start to install everything.

small port has a 42mm bigend and the bigport has a 40mm bigend. you can tell the engines apart from the size of the inlet ports, assuming someone hasn't changed the head.

try the top of the page for FAQ!!!

have found some more photos, some from NZ rallys and some from AUS.

Engine compartment all painted, now on to the door jams next week then hopefully the rest of the body over xmas. New engine parts turn up this week along with some other goodies, roof vent should be here as well.

Does anyone know of a good upholsterer on Brisbane's Northside? Perfer someone who has done/doing motorsport seats. :P Looking at getting 2 seats recovered.

Engine compartment sanding. Engine compartment primed and ready for paint, should be painted tomorrow if all goes well. Hoping to have the rest of the shell finished over Xmas and then it's only a matter of rebuilding the engine, transfering the gearbox and diff, re-wiring the car, running brake and fuel lines, and building a new fuel tank. Not much really. :P

mmm, what auto do you have? BW or Jap. If it's BW it could the the vacum line to the back of the auto has been knocked off, it's for the kick down. It looks like a round canister with a hose going into it. About 50 mm in Dia. If it's a japan one, check the kick down cable that's it's not tight. Shouldn't be anything to do with the diff.

If it had been a 2 door and a KP60, i would have paid more. But not interested in a 4 door. Good luck selling it, but i don't think many people on here will buy it.

Yip, you can always have another kid!!! :D And if wants too much for it let me know!!! the starlet, not the kid!!

It's a KP61, has the big polly bumpers and a short hatch, if it's in Aus, it's a rare find, but it's not the only one. I know of 3 in Brisbane, red green and white. At a guess, $1000 if its not rusted out completely.

if you need a started relay then yes that will help, but if it's not a started relay, which i don't think it is, then it could misled you. If you loss lights and wipers the power from the battery wasn't getting through to the components, so the first thing that controls the flow of power from the battery is the relays could even be an ignition switch causing this.

sounds like a relay problem, if was the battery it shouldn't have started back up and you would still have had lights and wipers, lights would have be very dimm. But start with testing the battery with engine running at a fast idle with lights, wipers and anything else you can turn on, the voltage shouldn't drop under 13 volts, if it does alternator isn't doing the job, if it's ok then start looking at relays, from the sound of it, it will be a main relay. good luck. :jamie:

we machined ours down 1-2mm i think, could be more, depends on the compression ratio you want. we thought it was well worth the effort, had a better range of pistons. the Big End is smaller in size but this hasn't caused any problems, we have had the engine apart a couple of times and it was the first thing we checked. It was/is all good, checked with a micrometer too.

you also need to machine the block down to get the compression up!

idle cut off solenoid sounds like it's not working, should hear a click from the carbie when the ignition is turned on, if not; it's a good bet it's stuffed.

sorry mate, it's been a while since i have done one, can't really remember. One other thing though, are you going to be using insulating blocks between the manifold and the carbs? It can also make a huge difference to how the carbs work.

So it now has a second lady owner!!!!! :S

if you have had the tops of the carb's, did you line the choke disc's back up. if you don't line them up properly, the chokes will be stuck on.

Gearboxes are different, shifter location is different.