Golberg

Well a fair amount has happened since the first post, good and bad. I'll start off with the bad, well you know that block in the aircon drain pipe I thought I had? Well it turned out to be a little more sinister that what I had thought: :hmm: Oh well, the rust appears to be very localised around the hole and doesn't spread into the chamber far. Here I was thinking my rust woes were largely over, no so! Water has been pouring in through that hole and onto the blower motor. To my surprise the blower motor still worked, until today, dead. As promised, there is good news too. I now have an extractors back exhaust system for my 4AGE, an entire wiring loom from an AE93 Corolla SX From nose to tail (Yes I stripped it out myself, fun times), and a power steering pump. AE71 with power steering, anybody know of anybody who's done this before? With my SX wiring loom I also got all the door latches with their central locking so I'm going to have a go at putting that in too. I've found another dude who's going to trade me most of the parts I need to have everything for the engine conversion. Hopefully that goes ahead :y: Got mags too, I really like them, a little bit of dish 14 x 6 +6 offset I think it says. They JUST fit in the rear guards without modding them. Here's a photo for you: 2 brand new tyres on a couple, 2 bald ones on the other. I just sat them on my rusty manual corolla which is up in the air right now: I've got another question for everybody also. I've been thinking about paint, well its been staring me in the face. I am not taking to the peeling gloss look, but I really cannot afford to go all out for a nice respray. I've been leaning toward getting a spray shop to do a full matt black respray. Now I know its really unoriginal, but I can see some big benefits of it. This corolla, although not massively rusty, it will get bits of rust coming through again in a couple of years, now I don't really want to spend up big and get a nice spray job only to lose it to rust. Here is my list of benefits: - Can be easily patched up with a spray can if it rusts out in a place - Cheap - Looks reasonable (better than blotchy gloss peeling silver-green) Downsides: - Car will get very hot in the sun quickly Can anybody suggest something else which will work just as well as matt black for what I want? I wouldn't consider it, apart from the fact that the car will have aircon before it gets any color change. The car will probably also be garaged for most of the time I own it.

Wow, seriously nice ride :D

That'd be good if you could, although I will still probably end up using a RWD system because I do have quite a bit of what is necessary to do so. Maybe you'll convert me though :cool:

Well I guess I'm back to where I started then, I still need an alt bracket/strap, a top outlet, and a pulley. So how exactly does the RWD alternator bracket reposition the alt? presumably it'll move it further out from the motor??

Well I guess that explains why it looks so similar to my 4A one, pics would be great :sob: thanks.

After sitting an alternator up where the thermostat is supposed go with the FWD alt brackets I can see that the thermostat would hit on the alt. Well that brings a quick end to that idea. Have I got my wires crossed then? Is the housing you see there not a RWD 4AGE one? I was lead to believe it was because it came with a RWD 4AGE pump.

I was reading a for sale ad on AE86DC, what caught my eye was that somebody said the RWD 4AC pump and rear housing were the same as the RWD 4AGE variety. Since I happen to have both I compared the 2 and yes they are almost exactly the same, the main difference I can see is that the bit which the cam cover seal is supposed to sit on is different between the 2. Obviously this means you can basically get a RWD water pump setup for your 4AGE of your old 4AC. The biggest snag I can see is the FWD top water outlet wont match up to the RWD water pump housing :no2: . Now I'm not sure if anybody has tried this before but I had an idea to fix the problem. I've taken a few pics on a bare engine so people can see easier. I've circled what bits need to be joined and given a few different angles to give some perspective. And here is one with the original pipe: Note: this is a small port, I don't know if the FWD big port's have the same outlet arrangement Getting to the point, I was after an opinion as to weather or not people though it would be possible to shorten the original pipe and bend it around to meet the RWD housing. The main problem I can see occurring is that the rather tight bends required will impede the flow of coolant, what do people think? Is there any other way people can think to connect the 2 bits together? Why not just get a RWD outlet you ask? Because then you need a RWD alternator bracket to go with it. :sob: Thanks for your help

As you might have guessed from the title I have another AE71 now. For those who don't know, deemed my other AE71 too rusty to be worthwhile registering, you can find it here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17235 I bought my new one about a week ago now. Its very similar to my other one (another AE71 duh) but its got a few differences. 1. Its auto :hmm: 2. Its slightly a different color silver-green as opposed to silver on the other. 3. Its only done 158,000k's. 4. Its currently registered until June. 5. Windows are tinted. Most importantly though, its got A LOT less rust. Now for some photos, these were taken on the day I went to see it: Together on the drive (You can probably guess which one is which): In the garage together: I've been putting the other one back together and just removing the rust then undercoating it(not filling). This is because its going to a friend's garage where it will hibernate until I'm ready to steal the T50 out of it :cool:. The rust doesn't seem all too bad, there is some rust beneath the right hand taillight inside the boot. There are a few bubbles under the fuel filler hatch and a few more bubbles in the rear arches. There is a small amount of rust on the underside of the boot hatch sill. Its had a few places repaired, looks to have been done very well though, no rust is coming through. Other than that, there is some surface on the guards and bonnet and on that metal piece at the back of the dash top. The interior is in excellent condition as one would expect from a grandma driven car. The paint is a tragedy as you can see from the pics, its dead. There were a few little problems which I've been tending to: 1. That horrible weathershield on the drivers side. Its been removed now, anybody want it?(i don't know why you would) Its yours free. 2. Aircon leaves a nice puddle of water on the passenger side when you use it. I'm guessing its the condensation drain pipe which is blocked so the water isn't escaping. So I'm not using the aircon for the moment, I'll sort it out when I fix up that rusty piece of metal at the back of the dash top. 3. Door switches on the passenger side don't work, i.e when you open the door the interior light doesn't come on, nor does the open door light on the dash. I had a good look at the switches on that side today, they are working fine and also getting power. So I'm going to try sort that one out when the dash is out too. 4. The combination switches i.e, wiper, indicator levers would move from side to side. I found out that the bolts holding it in were very loose. 5. 3 of the windows didn't wind down properly got stuck or pulled the seal down with them. I've lubricated the mechanisms and reorientated the seals so the windows work nicely now. (A plus when the aircon doesn't work) No other problems found as of yet, apart from the fact that it is slow as a dog with the 3 speed auto. The plan for it is basically the same as what the other one was to be. I've got a small port 4AGE to go into it and the T50 is going to come out of my other AE71. EDIT - Fixed photo links

It does have some rust, no holes though thankfully. There are a few places where you can see its been repaired, seems to have been done pretty well though. The only rust evident now is a couple of bubbles on the drivers side wheel arch and another 2 under the fuel filler door. And for some reason the metal piece at the top back passenger side of the dash. Mine other one is like that too, I really don't get why they rust there.

Sure was.

Sure was.

Thanks a lot for the advice, much appreciated. :( On a side note, I put down a deposit on another AE71 today :) Same color, CS-X again, air con and all. The 3 differences are, its an auto, its only got 157,000k's as opposed to 300,000 on this one, but most importantly, its much less rusty!!! :n: Oh, and its tinted. $750 with 3 months rego, I'm happy That rust on the bonnet is only very minor surface stuff. I'll start a new thread once I've picked it up and get more photos.

I presume the part you'd be having trouble with is the wiring which goes into the chassis loom normally? I don't know the pinouts for the big port, but if you head over to club4ag.com, they have a whole host of wiring diagrams for 4AGE engines in the tech section.

Well I knocked out more and more bog out of the passenger side wheel well until it was all out. Sad to say it but I really don't think this is worth repairing so before I do any regoing I'm going to need a new shell for sure. :P This is the pile of bog I was left with: Bottle cap for size reference, there was a piece of aluminum in there too which was covering a large hole. Anybody happen to have an AE71 shell lying around? :yes: A non rusty one at that. But in all seriousness if someone has a shell or maybe an auto AE71 with little or no rust which isn't more than about 150km from Wollongong I'd certainly be interested. I could go further than 150km if it has rego, maybe interstate. Must be an AE71 not KE70, need it to say so on the chassis for rego purposes.

Ahahaha nice, so I could imagine. Seeing as though I'm planning to do this wiring myself I have a question those who do car engine wiring Kebin included. It would be my automatic reaction if I needed to do any sort of wiring to solder the wires together and heat shrink them rather than using crimp connectors or anything else. I do tend to do a fair amount of electronics things (non car related) and use my soldering iron all the time. I read somewhere though that one should use self shrinking crimp connectors or something like that because solder joins will break due to the vibration. Personally I have a little more faith in my wire joining soldering skills but I thought I'd put the question out to those who've done it before. So should I solder or do something else when it comes to my engine wiring? On Monday I received my new intake :no2: Getting my T-Series diff from Melbourne is proving to be a trial, although TNT didn't quote me that much to have it transported. Its proving a pain because they apparently need it boxed up, as one may imagine diff sized boxes aren't the most common variety. I think the guy is going to try get a fridge box and cut it down. Hopefully it will get here within the next month. :P Perhaps I should :y:

So presumably then seeing as though its a JDM car its got a compliance plate on it?

I want to change the engine because I wanted a good moderately challenging project where I'd end up with a quick car which was RWD and didn't cost a huge amount on fuel, so hence AE71 + 4AGE seemed the way to go. In terms of rust, not much has changed but hopefully I'll have another attack on it this weekend. Well I spent the day at TAFE today, not actually at classes but ripping the chassis wiring out of an AE90 Corolla (6A-F) which they had lying around. Took me about 4 hours to get it all out. The reason I wanted it was so I had the wiring to connect the lights and horn etc up to the 4AGE fuse box amongst other things so I can ditch the original box. My pickings: All the wiring I have now put together (3 4AGE engine looms, 1 AE90 chassis loom, 2 coil/igniters, 3 ECUs, 2 fuse boxes and some other bits and pieces): Turns out to be quite a lot doesn't it.

I thought I'd make an update seeing as its been a while. Not much has happened on the rust front, although I did grind off all the paint on the front lip of the bonnet and on the underside. The rust wasn't extremely bad under there, there is one hole but its rusted all along the fold so I'll probably just be leaning toward a new bonnet in the future. The front end is looking a little more complete than it was when I first got it, the headlights match now(and have bulbs) and I've got a passenger side parker too. Lights courtesy of Gilly :yes: But then when I had a go at the bonnet rust, it ended up like this :P I personally think it looks surprisingly mean without its bonnet and lights. On the mechanical front, I replaced the water pump on the 4AC yesterday. The internal seal was gone and it was pissing out water, a nice rusty colored water. So after a good flushing of the radiator and a legend bloke at Repco selling me a brand new water pump for $44 as opposed to its RRP of $114 I ended up with a watertight engine :y: You've gotta love new stuff, even if it was for a 4AC I don't think I've mentioned yet, but at the same time as buying the car off Kevin I grabbed the Small port 4AGE he had too: It came with a big port loom and computer as it was originally in an AE82 twinky which had its engine replaced with this small port. The combination does apparently work, but being the type of person I am, I decided to run it on its proper ECU, so I bought a small port ECU and loom elsewhere. Once I received it though I realised I would also be in need of a small port dizzy as the big port one on it was only a 3 wire. :( Last weekend though, along came a perfect opportunity for more parts as member Matt-e30 was selling a small port in pieces for $150 so I went up and grabbed it. It came with a couple of boxes of the other pieces for it including a dizzy(a little beaten up), an ECU and loom(yes, I now have 3) and to my surprise what appears to be most of the RWD 4AGE water gear. Here's a photo for you: The only things which I seem to be missing from it are, the piece which connects the head to the water pump and the pulley wheel. So if anybody has either of them I'd be interested in taking them off your hands. In other news, I've traded my 4AGE intake manifold for a cut-n-shut one with a member on AE86DC but I've yet to receive (only sent on tues from Queensland). And I've also got a T-Series diff heading my way along with tail shaft and some AE86 struts amongst other bits and pieces. Other than that though, the plan for the immediate future is to clean up all the rust and do it relatively well, then fill everything back up again. Once that is done. Get it registered, and then start my engine conversion. Later on in the year I'll probably be cutting out the rust and fixing it properly once I'm getting closer to end of my panel beating course at TAFE. :P Other than that, who knows whats going to happen. I've just realised how massive this update is, I'll try do it more often in the future EDIT - Fixed image links

TE72 aka T18 Struts will bolt into an AE71 right. Is there any benefit other than having bigger brakes? Does anybody know how they differ from AE86 Struts? e.g will AE86 springs fit in them?

Looks just like mine ;) minus all the rust. Nice pickup though, paid $600 for mine also.

Cheers guys for the opinions. :) You certainly make a valid point, the only consideration I can see is that I do plan on getting this thing rego'd which means I'll probably want to make sure everything is in the shell I want to rego so I don't have to muck around re registering it after a reshell. Also, I'm heading towards a doing a pre-apprenticeship at TAFE in panel beating for next year. I wouldn't actually want to work in the industry, I'd just love to have the skills and hopefully I could use their machinery to fix up the rust on my rolla. So we'll see where that leads. For now though, I'm gunna go ahead with the engine conversion (once I get the remaining parts together) and get this beast running as is.

I'm in need of some advice, as you can see, my corolla is full of rust. If I were to buy a rust free AE71 but which was auto, how difficult would it be to then swap the manual into the auto? Seeing as though I'd have both cars I would definitely have all the parts to do it. What I am wondering is though, does the auto gearbox (A42 I think) have a different cross member to the T50? i.e could I sell the extra cross member later on, because someone might need it for a 4AGE conversion into a KE70? Is there anything else other than having to cut the hole in the firewall and mount the pedal which is more than just a bolt in? EDIT - I thought I'd add that I'll probably end up wrecking my current one afterwards, so there should still be some useful 4AGE conversion parts, like the engine cross member, mounts etc

Well I had another attack at that left rear wheel arch, it'd been bogged up so much. I'm really leaning towards a reshell, the rust has gone into the panel behind the arch as well. Its also through to the boot, to add to that, I've found rust holes all along the rear beaver panel above and below the tail lights. Here are some more photos: Oh and, I do actually have a lot of time on my hands right now. I'm going to go have a proper look at that KE70 tomorrow as see if its the go.

Just got my project AE71 on Sunday, I bought it off another member here Kebin. Its a manual, and being an AE71 it has all the gear to drop a 4AGE engine into it. :P That is the overall plan. Here are some photos for everybody: Unfortunately the corolla turned out to be deceptively rusty in the rear end. Before I went digging, the rust looked like this: After digging: There is also rust all along this seam Obviously from those photos, the rust was "repaired" once upon a time. Don't get me wrong though, Kevin had the car for a few years in which time it just sat in front of his house and I'm sure he didn't know how bad it actually was. Still happy with the car as I did get it for a very good price especially seeing as its an AE71. I need people's advice now though. What should I do about all the rust, I only pictured the left rear wheel arch, as I haven't gone into the right hand one yet, but it looks like its going to be similarly rusted. Now the main options I can see from here is to: Give it all a good clean up then bog it all back up again. (I really don't think this is a good idea as I want the car to last) Cut the arches out and get some second hand unrusted ones or if you can actually get them, replacement new arches. Buy an old KE70 which doesn't have rust and just swap the running gear in. Now the clauses are, I don't own a welder, have never welded and I don't I'm likely to learn any time right away. So hence, if i was to get the arches replaced somebody else would need to weld it. The other thing is, I really can't afford to spend more than $500 in fixing all this. On the bright side though, a mate of mines' dad owns a massive wrecking yard in which I have seen a whole KE70, but I don't know the status of rust. The yard hasn't opened yet, so most of the cars are whole. :) Cheers for your opinions people. :P

I am considering buying a set of extractors from the US for a 4AGE in an AE71. I know that the Jap spec AE86's have the clutch fork on the drivers side of the T50 don't they? And the AE71 T50's have it on the passenger side right? And this can create a few small problems with the bottom end of extractors hitting the clutch slave lines or something like that when trying to use Jap extractors on ADM vehicle. Now I was interested to know if anybody knew which side the US AE86's had their clutch fork on the T50? Hence or otherwise, are their likely to be any issues with trying to fit US AE86 extractors to a 4AGE converted AE71?