Golberg

Don't know if you've found out or not, but yes it uses 2 clips. I have heard new clips are hard to come by though.

I think your best option is just to sell your KE70, buy an AE71 then convert it to 4AGE. Then you'll have no problems.

Those things are extremely annoying on an E7 especially when your window winder is a real pain to move too. When I first got my second AE71 I made the mistake of going up to a toll booth in it, I could barely get my arm out of the window with that stupid wind deflector. First mod to that car was to get rid of it :D Nice KE70 though :)

I'm my opinion, flog the KE70 off. You wont get much for it, but you should get something. Most of the parts from a KE70 are not interchangeable with you AE80 unfortunately. Now you'll probably find a lot more rust in the KE70 when you go looking for it too. I binned my first 2 AE71's because they were too rusty, and I also do a 1 day a week course in panel beating if that says anything. Finally found a real minter and I've hung onto it. Whilst the KE70 will be more fun than an AE80 because its RWD I'd say get a better condition one further down the track when you have money. Or use the KE70 now as a paddock basher and have some fun.

As above ^^ But in order for everything to be entirely bolt in you'll still also need an AE71 pedal box.

Unfortunately for both kpro1n and KPROLN there are always going to cop flac for their cars here. If you guys are going to get super defensive about people saying they don't like your rims or they don't like the paint well then maybe this isn't the place for you to be posting. My opinion is that, although its not my taste at all, its obvious you've put some effort into the car and good on you for it.

A while back a I read an article on a forum about spacers and also the way in which hubs hold the load of the wheel. Now to answer your question, firstly I'll explain what being hub centric means. As far as I'm aware all Toyota have hub-centric wheel locators, now if you take off a wheel you'll notice that there is a protruding part which sticks about about 7-8mm in the centre of the hub, on the front it also has a bearing cap sitting on it. Now if you look at a pair of stock rims they have that centre hole machined out to the same diameter of the protruding part. The point of it is, wheel studs aren't actually meant to support the weight of the car they are mearly for holding the wheel to the hub. Its that centre part which the rim is supposed to rest its weight on, everything is happy until you go to after market rims. If you have a look at your SSR's the inside of that hole is a greater diameter than the stock rims so thus it wont rest on the hub centre anymore, what the adapter rings do is sit inside the rim and fill the gap thus restoring the load to the centre of the hubs and not the wheel studs. Does that make sense to you? Here is a picture of one of mine: I bought 4 at a bob jane for $7 each, its a bit dear but worth it to have the security of knowing your studs aren't likely to shear. And even if one does (from over tightening say) its not likely to cause a chain reaction and you lose the whole rim. Spacers are a whole nother league, and just about every single one out there doesn't factor in the hub centric design. There are some really good quality hub centric bolt ons but I don't think it'd be even possible to make a hub centric slip on. One other thing, its particularly important to have the hub-centric rings when your wheels use tapered nuts. I found you a pic of the SSR caps too if you haven't already seen them:

Well the shifter on the TA22 box pictured doesn't look like any of mine and I've got an AE71 and TE72 one, but maybe they still mount up the same. I'd imagine the reason for a TE72 to have a 20 spline is because they came out in 79, whereas we didn't see an AE until 83 (either AE71 or AE86). I am reasonably certain T18's ended production in 83 also but I could be wrong, but the age would be the main factor I'd think in the change from 20 to 22 spline.

Was just reading that section, I think you'll find that a T18 gearbox has the same shifter location as an AE71/AE86 box and the TA22 one is different. The reason I say that is because the T18, AE71 & AE86 share the same chassis and as such the same shifter location, whereas the TA22 one is most certainly different. That and my T18 shifter fits into my AE71 and AE86 boxes... But yes the T18 and TA22 share the same output spline of 20. Just thought I should mention so that people don't go buying a T18 box expecting it to suit a KE which is pre KE70.

Alright fair call, I guess so long as the owner is happy with it that's the important thing right?

I like the rims I must say, I have always been keen on the reverse meshies. I ended up with a set of formula mesh though in the same size and was amazed and how good they looked when I did a test fit. SSR mesh on KE70/AE71's just look the goods. IMHO I think the E7's look better with 14's than 15's, but sprinters go well with 15's. You've gotta get yourself a set of SSR centre caps too, I usually hate centre caps but the original SSR ones aren't gigantic like many are and look nice when on the rim. One other thing, are you running hub centric adapters on the rims?

Go from 2TC to 2TG, that way you're getting a more potent beast whilst sticking to the TE theme... But I'm a bit of a purist :hmm: From what I've heard though 2TG's aren't all that common in the states though either so that might be a little difficult. 5VZ does sound to be a pretty good convo though, and you're sticking to the Toyota badge, unlike too many people over here that go and stick a commodore v6 into Toyota. To me that's like giving somebody who's 30 a heart transplant except the heart is from a 50yo :yes:

+1

As stated, a KE70 5 speed will work with any T50 short shifter of which there several options including the aforementioned TRD one but expect to pay around the $250 mark. If its a KE55 5 speed, custom is going to be the way.

Haha, this is certainly very clean, but Teddy I think yours will be at least just that little bit cleaner than any one ever around. Did you guys over in the UK get the slant front variety of KE70/AE?

Awesome explanation mate, those images make it really clear :P

Nice idea with the grill. From memory, this is the manual for an AE86 but most things will be the same torque spec, I use it for my AE71: http://pdftown.com/Toyota-Corolla-1983-Service-Manual.html

From toymods, posted by old_school_jap1: hey everybody, just thought i'd post up a quirky old school item that has been passed down from my grandpa to my dad and soon to me. as far as my dad knows this came from a 1963 toyoace truck that my grandpa bought new back then (shame he doesnt still have it). as the title suggests anyone owned or seen one of these: Having that set with all the toyota marked tools would be so awesome.

I just recently explained how to wire somebody's 4AGE from scratch over the telephone, that was very difficult. Many many hours spent on the telephone. There are so many ways you can stuff it up, as you would have seen there are a lot wires and they've all gotta go somewhere. I taught myself in how to wire engine conversions, in order to be able to understand this stuff you're going to need to understand basic circuit logic, be able to read wiring diagrams, have a basic understanding of how EFI systems work and spend a long time looking over the appropriate diagrams. I think to be honest your best bet is to find an auto-sparky and get them to have a look in person.

As JiP has said, you're going to want at least one hole there anyway, its good to allow it to drain if its otherwise going to fill up. Why is the boot leaking anyway? Common reasons I've seen are, just at the bottom of the rear window, rust above tail lights, rubber boot seal dead and the seals on the tail lights dead (very common). If its the last problem, you can pick up brand new lights for $100 odd usually.

Well I pulled the guards off and AE92 to get the wiring underneath, the car was a junker so I didn't really care about damaging the guards but I think it still had a bumper on it when I pulled the guards off, I may be wrong though. Seriously, even if you do need to remove the bumper its not going to be that big a deal. Just use your head, look at where the bumper is bolted on and undo the bolts.

I have a feeling that there is actually a drain hole normally on the E7's so you should be able to unblock it and drain the water out. Otherwise, drill a hole (not a huge one, just enough to allow the water to drain) and then allow the water out and dry it up and remember to paint the drilled hole!! Otherwise it'll rust out all around it. If you do that, obviously the water wont pool again. And if you're not going to fix any of the rust properly (cut and weld) don't bog it, it'll only make things worse in the long run. Instead layer it with fish oil, I mean cover it, it'll stop the rust for the time being and you'll also be able to see if the rust is getting any worse in the long run.

Be careful though, I'm not quite sure exactly if it effects the rods (but I'm pretty sure it does), but the blue tops have a smaller crank in them (I think its 40mm), now almost all GZE's run if I remember correctly run a 44mm crank. The only possible exception may be the first gen bigport GZE out of an MR2, but I have a feeling it too has the larger crank. Arguably it is said that the first gen 4AGZE is the best for turbocharging as they run a lower compression ratio and have larger ports, but I don't think it'd make a massive amount of difference.

Its almost a straight bolt in, you can't use the AE71 "front half" because it doesn't have a front half as such, it doesn't unbolt like a T18 one. What you'll need instead is an AE86 front half tail shaft, with that everything will bolt straight in.

Those are big rims to be running on an E7, most people don't go above a 15. I think you'll find those tyres too thick also, rims may work but you'll probably need low profile tyres. TBH I think big rims (above 15") on RWD corollas tend to look pretty bad, in saying that there are people to run 17's on E7's, personal preference I guess.