Golberg

Well a few things have happened since my last post, all of the dash, steering column, carpet etc is now. The windscreen is also out, so I can now start fixing the rust up :hmm: I just pulled the water pump off my 4AGE and I'm a little worried, what water/fluid which was left in the pump smelt very oily. I really don't want to have to deal with a blown head gasket, should I be worried?

Way to hoard KE70/AE71's

I was basically in the same situation, I was doing one year 12 subject and I was going miserably in it. I dropped out of the subject right before the HSC and then started it again with my actual year. Totally ripped the subject second time around. All in all Yr11 doesn't count for much in the grand scheme of things. Again similarly my sister was the 96.9 UAI child who did a double degree at uni with honors in one subject and got a faculty award for it all. So I had some expectations to live up to from my parents there. There was a hell of a lot of things going on in my life during Yr12, best time for it ey. I struggled to see the point in the HSC when the things which were so much closer to me really needed my attention. Got to about 5 weeks before the exams and I couldn't cope, I went to the principal and told her I wanted to quit, she coaxed me into continuing (which was the smart thing because I was so close to finishing). Did all the exams and was so happy it was all over, I couldn't give a stuff about what I got the important thing was that it was over. Got my UAI back, got 79.9 which I am very happy with and got accepted into uni. Went stuff that, headed off to TAFE and am now doing a panel beating pre-apprenticeship course and an IT diploma. :dance: All my mates are now at uni (I'm the only one who didn't go), I'm loving TAFE, they're hating uni and life's great. :jamie: Ask yourself this, are you hell bent on going to uni? if not then you don't need a great UAI if thats the case, aim to do reasonably and keep up a life outside of school and you'll get through it. Do a TAFE diploma, you'll end up way ahead of those at uni, you wont have mounds of HECS debt and you'll get a decent job after only a year. Note: I'm in NSW so if you are somewhere else then things may work differently

Until somebody goes and pulls off all the fuel injection stuff and throws on carbies as I imagine has happened here.

^^^ Certainly a good idea if you know how to do it, done it myself a few times also. Personally not a big fan of non color matched bonnets, but if its something you wanna do then go for it. Its you who has to be happy with it in the end.

Well just in case anybody is interested, after the last 3 days the car now looks like this :dance: That was achieved with a bit of this: And then a little more: Tagged every screw, nut, bolt and whatever so I know exactly where everything goes. I've pulled everything out of the engine bay: A. Because I'm about to repaint the bay B. I've got some small amounts of rust to fix up C. Because a 4AGE is about to make its entrance. I've also done a lot of stripping the interior: Some more of the rust needs to be fixed up from the inside, hence the interior strip. List of work for tomorrow: Clean engine bay Finish interior stripping Cut hole for clutch master Remove windscreen Remove engine cross member and struts Cut shifter hole to suit T50 I've also done a time-lapse video of each day, if I get some interest, I'll find a way to host it.

To be honest, I reckon it would be easier to put the 7AFE in as is, keeping the EFI. Fuel is easily sorted, just get a tank and pump out of a twinky AE82 they aren't that uncommon in wrecking yards. Then the biggest thing left is all wiring, I personally find wiring just clicks with me and it all makes sense with a decent diagram, but it seems less so for others. Depends on if you can find somebody to wire it for you. I think option 1 is not worth it, pulling apart engines and putting different bits together will become expensive fast and then you basically need 2 engines to make one and I don't think there is much of a difference between the 4AF and 7AF head anyway. Option 2 is more possible, but obviously you need to find out compatibility of the parts you are wanting to swap. That information which I do not know for sure. Although you've said the 4AGE conversion would be too much hassle and you wouldn't want to bother. In my opinion I think it would be easier to do a 4AGE conversion over either of the options you listed. Why? The key to it is, your generation corolla (AE82) had a 4AGE model, thus everything bolts in from an AE82 twinky. Simple as that, with either of the 2 options you've listed you will at least require a few custom bits and pieces if not more major work. Only downside is you'll pay more, but you'll end up with a quicker car for it. One question, do you currently rely upon this car as your daily driver?

This is them in this picture, the 2 wheels further away have the brand new tyres on them and the 2 closer have bald tyres on them in the pic, but have different ones on them now. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii10/Mi...er/P3240195.jpg

I've got a set of 14x6's which I may sell, would be looking for about $500. Brand new tyres on the back, near new tyres on the front. They are import JDM mags which JUST fill the stock gaurds on an AE71/KE70 not an inch to spare. Just thought I'd put up the offer if you are interested.

Well seeing as the car is only going to be a daily I think I probably wont need the oil cooler, which is good, means one less thing to worry about. Thanks for the advice.

My 4AGE is going into my AE71 very soon and something which just occurred to me, when the small ports are actually in an AE92/93 don't they run a factory oil cooler? That being said, is it necessary to get one to put into my AE71 when the engine goes in? Cheers :)

To be honest, I'd doubt if there were any on the net anywhere. Most people don't care about 4AC's obviously because 4AGE's are often such an easy conversion into a car which already has a 4AC and they have much more potential. But you probably already know all this. I've seen a couple of engine manuals for 4AC's go through ebay but thats about all. I should be getting a Chassis manual for the E7 series of corollas soon which covers just about everything but the engine hence though it probably wouldn't help.

Just about any earlier 4A series engine mounted in FWD will have a remote thermostat which should do you. Just go to a wrecking yard and have a look around you'll probably find something which will do.

I've got 2 of the rear outlet pipes myself, interestingly though it looks like one was a LHD version but it has been cut down to the same length as my RHD one because it doesn't have the notch part to stop the hose from slipping off.

Thats interesting, the LHD drive version is slightly different to the JDM RHD version. The pipe which goes to heater core doesn't come out that far on the JDM ones, otherwise its the same. Presumably its just got to do with the position of heater core in the US ones.

Well the struts have now arrived, and I can happily say I'm the proud owner of 2 JDM AE86 struts. Yes the rotors are in fact vented. Now all I need are some JDM calipers and I'm set :D

Yeah I thought I recognised the photos, in case you didn't know there are another 5 KE70's way down the southern end. Its a pretty damn good wrecking yard though.

If thats an F-series corona diff, thats a rather valuable piece you've got there. The sprinter boys are after them because they are close to the correct width for an AE86 and also obviously fit an F-series LSD. Chances are its not though as I think they only came on personal import coronas and they are hard enough to find in the first place.

Sorry to be a bit off topic, but is that to say 3T engines have the same bell housing as on an 4A T50. i.e. T18 box will bolt up to a 4A series engine no mods?

Well on Saturday I pulled the gearbox out of this here corolla, its going to a better place (my other corolla :dance: ). Personally found it to be a bit of an ordeal to pull only the gearbox out without pulling anything off the engine. There was one bolt which was a big pain to get at, the top bellhousing bolt on the drivers side. Here it is, in all its glory the T50! Then today we pulled it out of the drive and its in its final resting place on the side of the road out front. Some one is coming to pick it up in 2 weeks minus its pedal box, gearbox, tailshaft etc (everything manual specific) for $400 but if somebody can get it out of here sooner I'll consider lower offers. EDIT - I just though I'd mention, It will still have the 4AC in it when it gets taken away so you'll have the engine cross member and mounts for a 4AGE conversion and if the buyer is keen they can have everything to make it an auto for an extra $50 including a spare low Km 4AC

I'm not sure, it looks like it might be vented, a bit hard to tell from the angle of the photo. I'm just trying to find out so I can get some calipers asap, because I'm going to need them soon

Ah, its interesting that the series 2 had large axles, I thought they only brought them in during 1985 or something. Good to know anyway.

A while ago I ordered a whole bunch of what appeared to be AE86 parts(guy said they were, but seemed pretty clueless), been having massive troubles getting the stuff up from Melbourne but thats another story. In any event included in the gear are 2 struts. They certainly appear to be an AE variety, and i'm leaning toward thinking they are JDM AE86 ones because it looks like the rotors may be vented. Can anybody confirm this? I can't get a better photo until I get them, but I thought I might as well ask. If they are JDM struts, what if any is the difference between them and an ADM one apart from the brakes?

As commented upon above, seeing as though you are going to have to change mounts anyway (leaf spring setup in the van). Might you just as well go for an RA40 T-series? They are much cheaper than an T-18 T-series because they aren't a bolt in job for an AE86 or KE70/AE71 sedan. LittleRedSpirit has been trying to sell one for a while now. Correct me if I'm wrong but the only T-series large axle diff which is on an ADM car is from the AE9X series Corollas/Tercels which have the wrong stud pattern anyway to they probably aren't worth your time. So in other words, small axle is probably the way to go because you'll find it much easier to find a suitable housing.

Found my rims have it too, so is that to say most or many JDM rims will have this mark?