mikey_m

Greetings All I am doing a small survey to capture some data around the presence of chaplains in motorsport. I would appreciate it if you could spare a few minutes to share a little of your experiences with chaplains in motorsport. http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/MFDR3WM Does not matter what you believe, if fact tell me all about it. Thank you appreciate your time and feedback. Cheers and God Bless Mike

There is heaps of fun to be had if you willing and willing to spend the time and $$ Extractors are near impossible to get, we started making them before we put in a different motor, for the short term we stripped back the factory manifold removed the butterfly valve and welded it shut. You can get side draught manifolds in Japan (I still have mine, including matching tuned dellortos etc, well for that matter the whole motor still :D) We had a blast, got some good power from it overall. It is a job of patience and time (love) Know heaps about it, so feel free to ask questions, we rallied ours, have a look on youtube.com/jesusrallysport for some videos and check out jesusrallysport.com for pics from the engine build

Never mind, I called the company that makes them and they gave the details to me. Coil Top To Dizzy TA TB Coil Bottom A = Negative B = Positive

Can anyone at least tell me on their own coil which colour wires go to each terminal?

Ignition Coil - Similar to - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIDON-IGNITION-COIL-TOYOTA-COROLLA-AE92-4AGE-16V-1-6-LEVIN-TURENO-SX-GTI-/200579017263?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb370ea2f Connector on loom is damaged, cannot identify positive or negative terminals. Does anyone know?????? Cheers Mike

But Hey, If you are keen for some 4AC fun, check out club4ac forums We built a semi-cool 4AC for some PRC Rally Fun. We are right now removing it to put in an different motor for a different class. 4AC - Slightly Shaved Head (Still close to 9-1 Comp) Electronic Ignition 2 x 40mm Dellortos DHLA Twin Cable Linkages (Strong) 276 Deg CAM (Mild Grind) Not a bad bit of fun, has treated us well over the past two years of rally competition.

Keeping mind this is basically a kit shipped to your door. You will need to fit it. I had a local fabricator do the install for me $500 Bond supplied all the detail for the CAMS form, just had to sign and submit it with the log book app when ready.

Bond Rollcages in Sydney will ship both weld in and bolt in CAMS compliant cages. They have templates for the AE71 Mine is a weld in, with additional crosses in Roof, Main Hoop, and cross side intrustion bars. $1150 Shipped to Wagga.

I have done the research and a mock bolt up and it seems to work. I have an AE71 and have this worked out so I can run a T Series T50 behind the 4A Swap Bellhousing and Rear Housing for the shifter (Same bolts and Gaskets) Then use a KE70 Tailshaft to matchup the new rear output shaft on the Tseries T50

Gosh it has been some time since being on these forums. Hi guys. To the OP, good on you for wanting to get into rally, this is our first year too and are competing the ACT Rally Series. (Took a few year to finish the car) I have built my own KE70, while I know the car very well, the cost was highish though (But only because I love building cars) so buy a turn key one such as RedDwarf's and jump straight in. Club rallies are achievable cost wise to get into and the community of rally nuts are welcoming and very helpful. Officials and Service Crew are the back bone of our sport, support them both and th'ell support you back. I have shared service once and had a few mates help on others, makes all the difference to move gear around etc while the event is running and will make sure you can have a break in between too. Keep it up, great to see new blood wanting to make the leap to rall. Mike Meyer www.jesusrallysport.com

Ring Crow CAMS, they are veyr helpful on 03 9357 0469, there is a mild grind they can do on them . They no longer have patterns for new cams for the 4AC. But they are cheap and very helpful, they will be doing a new one for me in the next few weeks.

Monroe GT Gas - Short and Standard Strokes for up to an inch or so lower.

Hi Folks It is now time for artwork on my AE71, do anyone have a sketch/line diagram of an AE71? That we can use as a base for sketches? Thanks Mike

Found it! Very simple really, take the cables from the coil and connect direct to the electric dizzy, so black being the negative from the coil and black/orange being the positive. Note you do not need the ballast resistor. It has come up very neat and works well, I am finding much cleaner/smoother power having converted, and its kindo nice not having a seperate coil in the bay.

They are different. KE70 and AE71 Manual has same mount points however supply outlet is on the other side. AE71 auto is larger and the mounts do not line up at all.

You can always stick a bias valve on the rear line, and play with the balance an then not press so hard. :P I find it loks easy too but getting used to the feel has been my solution so far

Hey Folks I picked up a Tercel Electric Dizzy (3A), it does not have an external coil (I assume it is internal) and two wires from it, one black and the other black/orange. Any have an idea on how to fit it to my 4AC? Cheers Mike

You don;t NEED a new master it does actually work if $$$ are a bit prohibitive when you do it, you will just have to push the pedal further. But like most will agree, this is not really a nice feeling having to push that far, a Pajero master bolts straight on and has no issues pedal feel is what you'd expect. There is a thread in General Mechanical all about this and covers the entire conversion and parts required including part numbers. Have a search you'll find it easy as.

www.seemore.com.au - cheapest master I have seen around, and they alos make locally a few different handbrakes too. I have one of these in a lift style rather than pull. www.revolutionracegear.com.au - sell a very nice one with latching mechanism, but they are $$$$ How to fit: Once decided where to mount and that you are happy with it placement, tooks me a few goes and ended up removing the old cable brake all together because it just got in the way. The Master is a remote resevoir device, has two holes an in and an out. Remove the brake line from Primary Master to the rear last connection, cut off the connector and then re-bend and bring upto the Secondary Master (Handbrake), re flare and connect to the in hole. Bend and plumb a new hard line to replace the section between the out hold of secondary master and the rear of vehicle. These need you profficient with bending steel line and flaring. I had Zero difficulity with the local brake shop helping and inspecting once I had completed it. Once fitted the its time for bleeding, this is a bit tricky and takes a bit longer than normal. Follow the normal bleed the longest first (Remember to bleed the whole lot) Bleeding the front brakes is no different to normal and I will not cover it here. Procedure to bleed: Get fluid moving by pressing the master with rear nipple locked, this will takes a few goes here so be patient. Bring up a bit of pressure and release nipple and push foot to the floor. Then lift the handbrake, next lock off and repeat, however do not let the secondary master return with your own force, allow the pressure of the lines to bring it down byitself, this will make the process faster. Repeat this until; you have no more bubbles and the handbrake pulls itself down forcefully. Bleed all remaining lines and viola. Hope this helps you out. Note the instructions with the remote resevior master will have this procedure more clearly documented.

Yes the Twin definatly just bolts straight on, I have just done one myself.

Cruise Control = No A/C = Yes (see the classifieds, people sell the A/C kits they have removed fairly regularly)

Opionion - Bloody Fantastic - She Stops really good, somtimes a bit too good, got to b careful how hard I push now :P There is no need for coilovers, I am not confident on XT130 Strut Tops, but you can probably adapt easily AE86 tops to XT130 Struts. But the rest will fit no problems at all and just bolt together. At the end of the day the mentioned conversion simiply removed the factory springs replaceing them with coilovers and added AE86 Camber Tops, LCAs, Brakes, Strut and Steering arsm are all XT130 and just bolt in. I use them in a Rally Car, but for both street and on track works very well, although if you are just using them on the street EBC Ceramic Pads are not necessary, you will get good semi-performance lower temp padsd from Bendix and Ferodo etc. Good Luck with it, it has been pretty cheap for me and I surprised how well it works.

^^^ Thsi works 100%, I did exactly the same.

For Mine, I used a piece of cardboard and made a template from the pedal box. The removed the master etc and traced onto the other side and bingo your done. But always, double measure and double check before drilling.

I did the same on mine, the problem will not relate to the cut holes or strenght, there will be plenty. I think you are right, the movement on the back hitting the spring will not be helping. I had issues with a second hand one with enough pressure/leaks too. Leaked through a side thread, was not worth doing anyhtign with. I got a NEW one from Repco for $60, and it has never had an issue yet. This might be your best bet.