irokin

I've never had a bike with discs before and now I wonder why you'd bother with anything else. One fingers usually enough force. They bite like all hell if you grab the brakes hard, nearly sent myself over the handle bars once in the first few rides. One thing I noticed is that the bikes not hugely dynamically stable. I'm assuming its the 26" rims giving less gyroscopic stability. It's not a bad thing, makes it feel really nimble, just something I've noticed after riding bikes with larger diameter rims.

6, 8... closer than any real psychic could get.

I'm looking into my crystal ball, its telling me you're using an older browser? There's more, I'm seeing the letters I and E and the number 6. Do those mean anything to you?

You can try turning off the rich text editor (button in the top left corner of the editor, looks like a light switch).

Not sure why people are saying it's expensive. A pair of USED skyline Brembos and rotors will set you back ~$2k. The hopper stoppers kit comes with NEW hubs, bearings, brackets, calipers, rotors, pads and brake lines. It's a freaking steal at $1300!

lol, really?

Still not sure on this. I don't really subscribe to anything so I don't get the notices. Guess I'll have to subscribe and see for myself. After 30 days posts are marked as read automatically. So you might be running into that limit, otherwise it should self correct within 30 days.

So I've had a few people ask why I don't have any of my cars posted. Well, the Corollas just a standard Corolla, the Hilux is just a Hilux so the only thing left that's remotely interesting is the Silvia. Personally I just don't think my cars that interesting. I don't think I'm doing anything special or different. But anyway here goes; So the background story with this car, I had my TA22 at the time and I was saving up to import an ST195 GT4 Celica. At the time though I kinda wanted to try my hand at drifting and the GT4 wasn't really suitable. By coincidence a friend of a friend had imported an CA18DE manual Silvia with blown motor and was selling it dirt cheap. I think I bought it with full intention to do an engine conversion, I did look at fixing up the CA18DE and just driving it but I'm glad that didn't happen. I did have a CA18DET around that time but I can't remember if that was ever the intention. Regardless, the same friend had another friend who was selling a freshly rebuilt an SR20DET with standard internals. So I snapped that up and then went about sourcing the rest of the parts for the conversion. In hind sight this would have been MUCH easier with a front cut, but they were pretty scarce and expensive at the time. I had another mate who had just imported a 600hp S13 drag car so I scavenged a heap of parts off that as he swapped them out for better gear. Sometimes I had to buy more than I wanted, e.g. an entire engine just to get a loom, but I sold on most of that stuff so it didn't end up hurting the wallet too bad. So I would have gotten the car around mid 2005 and got compliance and rego with the SR20 in May 2006. Photo of it off the boat: And just home: Shot of the filthy engine bay back in 2006 pre compliance, looks quite different now: Original specs were something like; SR20DET GTiR T28 on a standard manifold Hybrid intercooler kit GRID chipped standard ECU Bosch 040 Cusco Zero-2R coilovers (ridiculously stiff, 8kg/6kg springs or something there abouts) Tomei short shifter Some mild steel 3" exhaust 17x7.5 Enkei RP01s on the front with nankangs 17x9 Volk Evolution 4 on the rear with nexans (I have a full set of the evos, but the front offsets are stupid, like +48 or something) SR20 brakes with Endless CC-X pads (scary on the street) probably some other stuff I'm forgetting... Initially I had a heap of problems with a rusty fuel tank. Once I got everything sorted out the car made a rather rich 170kW @ 12psi on mercury's dyno. I never did get into drifting. By the time the car was running on the road I'd gotten over it. I took it to the drags, got a whopping two runs in 4 hours for a best of something like 13.7, could have gone much quicker with more practice. At some point in 2006 I decided to go out to the Saturday afternoon sprints at QR. I put R33 GTSt brakes on the front with Ferodo DS2500 pads for a bit more stopping action over the standard SR brakes and I think Racebrakes RB74s in the rear. I ran a 1:05 first time out which seemed to be considered pretty good for a noob and the bug had bitten. I went to a few more SAS but they got really crowded so I changed over to midweek Time Attack days in Early 2007 I think. I moved off the shitty tyres onto 225/45 Bridgestone RE070s on the front and 245/45 Continental contisportsorsomeshit on the back. Massive improvement on the street, but on the track they still got greasy after a few laps. SAS Dec 2006: Same SAS: Time Attack mid 2007?: Time Attack August 2007: I loved how the car looked with the standard CA18 wing from all angles. I went chasing a bit more power so on went SARD 700cc top feed injectors with a SARD fuel rail and the newly released Wolf V500. I had serious headaches with that ECU dropping CAS sync. I changed almost everything I could, shielded everything as best I could but the problem seemed to be heat related. I finally figured out it was the ECU by cooling it with a bag of ice and voila, car drove fine for ages. I returned it and got a new one back with the same problem so I got a refund and moved to a Haltech E8. That hasn't been plain sailing either. The Haltech was good for a while, made 255hp/193kW @ 12psi with HKS 264 step 1 cams. I did some misc cooling mods in here somewhere, big chinese radiator (was awesome, and cheap!) and a greddy oil cooler kit. I got really dudded with track days through 2007 and 2008 too. In the middle of a drought and about half of them were completely wet but I still pushed hard and would run 1:08s around sprint in the pouring rain while everyone else is pottering around doing 1:15-20s. Good practice! After the Haltech was fitted around 2008 I put on the sydneykid Bilstein kit. I still haven't had a chance to do them justice yet, my alignment is all over the shop and I was still tweaking the ride height setup when the turbo issue (below) happened. I don't think I dropped much from my lap time, but they did make the car easier and more fun to drive over the rock hard Cuscos. With the extra power I was having big problems with rear grip. I chucked a cheap carbon fiber GT wing on which made the car feel less nervous through turn 1 and 2 (placebo maybe? I thought it felt different) and I bought some R33 GTR rims and Hoosier A6 'semi' slicks (they're basically a slick with two grooves). I never ran them on the front because it was still 4 stud but the extra grip on the rear was excellent. I came 3rd (out of 4 cars lol) in the Race class in 2008 behind Darren Hennigs V8 Supra and a BMW M3 despite only attending 1 of the points rounds. In early 2009 I attended the first public event after the reopening of Lakeside. Noise restrictions were tight, the track surface hadn't been repaired yet and there was no lap timing available. But then the unfortunate happened. The Haltechs map corrupted and started running lean. Despite having a laptop there and my mechanic/tuner being at the track day he didn't want to look at it. Suffice to say I now have a new mechanic. Turbo housing cracked from the heat so I decided it was a time for an upgrade. The GTiR turbo was good, made plenty of power at low boost but it was way too laggy for the power it was putting out, full boost was about 3800rpm! So I pulled that off and replaced it with a GT2871R 52 trim (aka "HKS GT-RS") on a Tomei expreme manifold. The goal was to go for something which could push the power up a bit while improving the response. And this is pretty much the stage that I'm at. My enthusiasm waned through 2009 and 2010 and not much got done on the car. Parts I were getting weren't fitting properly and I'd frequently get the shits and just not want to look at the car. In late 2010 I decided to get moving on the car again. I decided to buy a tow car because it was far too stressful driving the car to the track all the time. One day it was going to break and it'd be going home on a tilt tray many hours later. So I bought the Hilux with the intention of renting trailers. With the car itself I put aside some of the parts (radiator, intercooler) that were frustrating me and replaced them with more a more conventional setup. Des (AE70) helped me out finding some parts through Nissan and around April 2011 I started the car for the first time in 2 years. Then I decided to quit my job (kinda) and go to Uni, so the car went on hold again. After a few months at Uni, my financial situation is sound and I've started working on the Silvia again. I dropped rego on it because I couldn't justify continuing to pay it so its now a track only car. I decided to strip out much of the interior but I've left the dash and door trims so I can still meet IPRA regs if I want to. I'm currently sorting out my brakes and getting the car ready to go to the new mechanics to finish off some work for me. The brakes are being changed to rebuilt Sumitomo R32 GTR calipers and rotors on the front (off a mates GTR, cheers Si!) and rebuilt R33 GTSt 2 spot calipers. Calipers are being rebuilt with alloy pistons instead of steel and I'm thinking about possibly anti knockoff springs too (but probably not). Front pads are now Project Mu RC09 Clubracers which should be freaking awesome, they're essentially H16-03s (V8 Supercar pad) on street car plates and maybe some compound tweaks. They look crazy aggressive! The rears are Hawk HP Plus, nothing terribly exciting but cheap and should do the job well. Master cylinder is being upgraded from a piddly BM33 (looong pedal) to a BM44. I'd like a BM50 but I've been quoted $700 ex japan...! Contact me if you have a cheap non-abs BM50! I think I should be happy with this brake setup for a long time to come. Things to do before sending it to the mechanic/tuner: Install Odyssey PC680MJT drycell in rear passenger side footwell and wire it up. Finish cleaning up the tar off the floor. Finish installing Moroso swinging trap sump (5L capacity w00t). Wash the dirty dirty thing. Run the sensors for Blitz oil pressure gauge and Greddy oil temperature gauge. Things for the mechanic to do: Install HKS cam gears. Install Greddy remote oil filter and thermostat block. Install Tomei N2 oil filter replacement block (this thing) Fabricate new hotpipe. Fabricate new LOW seat mount, cut seat mount cross bar out. I'm 6'4 and even with a bride ultra low rail and a Sparco Evo 3 I still whack my head on the roof with a helmet on. Friggen annoying! Install 1.5way LSD. I'd like a Nismo GT Pro but I'll probably just cheap out and get a Kaaz. Viscous is as good as an open wheeler with 190kw! Give the engine a once over and get it tuned! Things to do after (or before if there's time) it comes back: Install the new calipers and rotors. Install rear sway bar (waiting on brackets to arrive). Switch studs configuration to 5 stud on the front. Have Federal FZ-201 235/45 semis fitted to the GTR rims. Fit Cusco strut brace. Have ranko fix my shoddy wheel alignment. Buy a car trailer! Don't like the look of the death trap rent-a-trailers. Criteria: Light 4-500kg, hydro or electric brakes, not full floor, not cheap and nasty. The goal is to have the trailer and car weigh the same which is ~1600kg each. The goal is to shake down the car at the November 15th QR day and maybe attend the December 11th Lakeside day and then a balls out attack on the Time Attack championship in 2012. I'm gonna try and attend every single round if I can. So here's my current spec, some of these parts may yet to be fitted but they will be before the next track day: Engine and Gearbox Haltech E8 ECU with Haltech patch loom & 3 Bar MAP sensor Garrett GT2871R 52 trim .64 exhaust housing SARD Top feed fuel rail SARD 700cc low impedance top feed fuel injectors Bosch 040 fuel pump HKS Fuel pressure regulator HKS Camshafts HKS Cam gears Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers NGK Iriway iridium sparkplugs (heatrange 7) Nismo engine and gearbox mounts Exedy 5 puk ceramic button clutch K&N air filter & hard pipe intake with S15 turbo snout Blitz SE intercooler Koyo 54mm core radiator TRUST V-type oil cooler kit with braided lines & earls fittings Greddy Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat Moroso Upgraded Aluminum Oil Pan Tomei N2 Super Oil Block Tomei genuine short shifter (~30% throw reduction) Exhaust Tomei Expreme manifold Tomei Expreme dump pipe Blitz front pipe 3 inch High flow (de)cat-convertor 3.5 inch Catback into stainless oval muffler Interior Apex'i AVC-R boost controller GReddy 62mm Black electronic peak recall boost gauge GReddy 62mm Black electronic peak recall oil temperature gauge Blitz 60mm Black electronic low alert oil pressure gauge Nismo 330mm suede leather steering wheel with quick release Takata 3 inch 6 point harness Sparco Evo 3 fixed back, fixed mount seat Stripped interior Suspension & Brakes Front: R32 GTR 4 spot brake calipers with alloy pistons on 296x32mm slotted unknown (P-Mu?) rotors. Rear: R33 GTSt 2 spot brake calipers with alloy pistons on 297x18mm slotted RDA rotors. Front: Project Mu RC09 Club Racer pads. Rear: Hawk HP Plus pads. Maltech braided brake lines front and DIF conversion brake lines rear all stainless braided. Motul RBF600 brake fluid. Wheels: R33 GTR 17x9 Rims, Federal FZ-201 235/45R17 tyres Bilstein mono tube shock absorbers with Eibach springs front and rear Cusco Castor Rods. Kaaz 8 plate 1.5way LSD Selbys front adjustable swaybar Selbys rear adjustable swaybar Whiteline rear camber kit Nolathane bushes here and there Goals 230kW/300HP at the wheels. Shouldn't be a problem, gearbox probably wont like it very much though. Sub 60 seconds on QR sprint. Should be achievable, semis are worth ~2sec/lap and I'm doing 62s already. I wouldn't be surprised if I can go under 59s next year with the alignment fixed up, the extra power and some tuition. The Option 1 S14 does 56s with supposedly 240kW and apexi coilovers but they've got a bit more aero (front undertray) and wider tyres than me. Ultimately I'd like to be able to go as fast as they are currently. Under 1100kg without driver. The car was originally 1180kg in full trim, I think I may have achieved this already but I wont know until I get it corner weighted. Future Plans Full jungle gym CAMS roll cage, this could happen over the New Years Time Attack break depending on how the bank balance looks after the cars racing again. May log book it as either an IPRA or sports sedan car. Sports sedan offers far more freedom but demands quicker times. Front air dam and undertray. Probably just consist of a vertex copy front bar and a ply wood or fiberglass undetray. I was looking at the URAS GT kit and while it looks awesome and comes with an undertray, its not low enough in my opinion. Fix the panels, touch up the paint. The car has one big dent in the passenger side where someones backed into it in Japan. Looks don't really bother me, I'm more interested in going fast, but trying to pick up any kind of sponsorship is impossible if the car looks like crap. Drop more weight. On going battle this one, carbon fiber bonnet, boot and doors are on the list to do one day along with fiberglass guards maybe. DRIVE IT MORE! Over the few years I had been driving it I didn't drive it anywhere near as much as I wanted. Going to the track was hugely stressful and wasn't as much fun as I wanted it to be. Stress driving there (am I gonna get defected?), stress about whether the car will survive so I can drive home and then stress again on the way home. Hopefully the trailer, especially if its my own, will make the whole process much more enjoyable. Load the car up the night before, tow it out, thrash the shit out of it and drag it to the mechanics broken and sorry at the end of the day. Hopefully much more fun! Moar picks later Thanks to: avalonea - Found the car for me originally as well as the engine and sold me his gearbox (still not dead!). Provided heaps of advice and support over the years. John (miss13) - Helped me HEAPS with parts and advice, I recon I bought well over $3k worth of gear off him over the years. Si - Listening to my hair brained ideas and plans, helping me out with parts and contacts. My brother and father - Helping me out, putting up with my bullshit. Kev Rowely - for modifying my loom and helpful advice, absolute legend. Greenline and Nengun - Giving us access to Japanese parts at non-ripoff prices. FRSport - Cheap parts, fast delivery, shame you're in America or I'd buy even more stuff from you. Marty at Racer Industries/Project Mu Australia - Awesome to deal with Rollaclub - for not yelling at me for owning a dirty Nissan. Sorry if I've forgotten anyone! If you've got any questions about my setup I'm more than happy to answer them. Source: The Silvia

WOW that's green. Flares look great.

As far as I'm aware any car that was homologated for Group A is eligible except for special versions. KP61/2 Starlet with a Beams 3S or 2ZZ would be a little rocketship. IPRA U2L go-kart.

Insurance wont cover you? My insurer will cover up to $1000 to have keys replaced/recoded.

I don't really have much to compare it to. Far exceeds anything I've ever ridden before. Inspires confidence from the moment you get on it. Pedal bob is minimal on the flat and the lockouts easy to reach for powering up hills. Suspension does what you'd expect it to do. Tyres (Conti Race King 2.2s) are great off road and will tolerate road use without alerting the entire neighborhood to your presence. That video's awesome Stu!

Good news for tall people. After a tip off from my mechanic that it might fit with a bushing change, I've found the R34 GT-T gear stick is a direct fit in the FS5W71C (SR20) gearbox. The shifter has a kink which sets it back about 3-4cm. For me it took the shifter from "a bit of a reach" to something "acceptable". Fits with all the trim like a standard one.

Hom. Grp Make Model 5755 A Toyota Starlet 1200 KP62 5022 A Toyota Starlet 1300 KP 61

Swept.. lame. Ah yep, quite right. I've only ever read the regs with late model in mind.

I don't think that's necessary. And I doubt the scrutineer would believe you anyway. 1197 * 1.7 = 2034.9cc 2000cc + 2% = 2040cc You might need to seek clarification on what "actual capacity" means. Swept volume or effective capacity? I don't see why it would mean swept volume, almost everything else is based on effective capacity. Buuuut that's all pointless anyway because the engines probably not eligible. Hope you have a good source for depleted uranium so you can make the 1095kg minimum weight. The minimum weights are quite generous. Pick something with good suspension rather than light weight. My silvia's minimum weight is achievable in almost full trim (what you'd remove to fit the cage would be enough).

O2 sensor in the turbo housing :| hardcore! Was about 1280kg before the stripping. MAYBE around 1200kg now. It's possible to get them down near 1000kg without carbon panels but I'm not really sure where that weight comes from.

Got one side of the rear finished. All new arms (except LCA), R33 handbrake setup, new rotors and R33 calipers. Need to make up a bracket for the handbrake cables because they're a tad short/long. Bilstein's finally have decent strut tops now. Previously I was running the standard ones with the horrid bushes. As a bonus it gives me an extra ~2.5cm in adjustment as I'm almost bottomed out on the sleeve and still need to go lower.

This is what I like to do with listings like that: Does eBay actually do anything? Probably not. But it makes me feel better :P

Don't take it the wrong way. I'm not expecting you to do anything. But consider how many people believe in paranormal things world wide. If these things were true then why wouldn't it be simple to test them and claim the prize? Plenty have tried, none have even come close to succeeding. Science is looking at our world closer than ever before. It can smash protons together at ~99.999% the speed of light and observe the effects of the collision. Or look at galaxies ~13.2 billion light years away. It can do the big and the small but for some reason the "paranormal" eludes it? I seriously doubt it. Do we then go down the Russell's teapot road?

Plus he'll give you a million dollars if you can provide it. No shit! (The money's pretty safe IMO)

Once upon a time we didn't have an explanation for lightning. That doesn't mean it must be magic or supernatural. The Buddhists I know don't do that kind of thing. I'm not even sure how you would fit that into their belief framework. Then again I've really only got a basic understanding of one flavor. My guess is what you saw in the jail photos Tom, are these: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orb_(optics)

wut

If its just the youtube URL as the link it will embed it. If it's a link with text it will leave it alone. e.g. A youtube link as itself: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlUmYrP8dDw vs A youtube link as text

To be fair though, posting that thing and having it remain in one piece would be a complete clusterʞ©$ɟ. A box probably 10cm bigger in length and width plus reasonably deep. Even though it doesn't weigh much you'd get stung on size.