GJM85

I think the bog is the rusty donor car... :blush:

...a very very sad panda!

On the combustion stroke of the engine, rapidly expanding gasses can pass the piston rings and enter the bottom end (we call this blow-by). This blow-by increase the crank case pressure, so we use the PCV set up to equalize and circulate air pressure in the bottom end. Over fuelling. The unburnt fuel flows passed rings and into the sump. This thins out the oil. It also increases sump level and the crankcase pressure dramtically, resulting in the gases being forced out of the top end/rocker cover vent. White smoke that smells like fuel. I bet if you take your exaust manifold off you'll find this in your exaust ports.

For the cost of rebuilding 4a-fe, you could probably buy a 4a-ge. Just saying is all. :blush:

You may need to do more research. Something along the lines of structural engineering, geometry and welding.

Why waste the time and effort in a diff that you know wont last 5 minutes behind that sort of engine. Start looking at a hilux or even an early skyline diff. Shave it. shorten it, get the spring and shocky mounts off your diff and have them welded on along with tramp bars. At least then you'll have 5 wheel studs and you won't shear your wheels off.

Your a doodle. .... Good day to you....~tips hat~'n' walks away...... ....~walks back in~ I bet if you pull those leads off and hold just close enoough to the plug for the spark to ark between the lead and the plug the engine will pick up a cylinder...

Compression test should be done with a warm engine. Throttle fully open. Test each cylinder 3-5 cycles. 170psi+ cranking compression is good.

Getting closer to the tuning of the 38 Outlaw. Smaller mains still required. No one round here stocks weber parts so I've been redirected to Adaptatune. Same place where they did my Solex's. Or so they say they did. The 38'syncronous thottle bodies are very sensitive at the pedal. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VtkMp07GC8

What your getting is like a hydraulic lock, there is so much fuel, it is washing the bores. So wet under compression the plug won't arc. I had the exact same problem with my solex set up. I suggest you drop your oil. It's likely all that unburnt fuel is ending up in the sump. Thinning the oil... this causes bearings, rings and gaskets to live very short lives. I gave up for this exact reason. It needs to go to the dynosaurus bro...

It's off a 3k and it has big ports... :wtf: If there is another name for it then perhaps you can enlighten me.

I can't understand how you could put so much love into something you could sell.... pimp!

It will flood as fuel will flow freely from the fuel bowl.

The twenny runs better than it ever has before. Revs out to 4 grand with a tweek of the throttle. All I did was bolt it on, hook up the vac-adv hose and fuel line, turned the idle speed half a turn in from contact and turned the mixture screws half a turn out from bottom. I'd say it's pretty close to where it needs to be but not right yet. I need to rig up a linkage for the cable and retro fit my hi-cam air cleaner. I think the main jets are a little over size still. I'll get a jet kit this Thursday. :cool:

I slapped this on my rolla... now there isn't enough room for anymore.

AutoOne has Nachi bearings on the shelf. It's a generic bearing $6. Pretty sure it fit in my skateboard wheels. :P

There are all soughts of possible issues with the twin solex setup you will run into. You need equal fuel distribution and pressure. Ditch the inline fuel delivery and make up a T section delivery. Get a fuel prssure regulator. They run around 3 psi. Not a great deal of people know anything about sidedraft solex carbs. Parts/jet kits are harder to source than dellorto parts. Bits get loose over time (venturies). You should run tube headers with or without the twin carbs. At the end of the day don't do what I did and try and make it work yourself. As stated 'witchcraft' no worky worky. Bolt them on and get it to the tune shop... I gave up on my Type T solex setup because I realise now that I went completely the wrong way about it.

WINNA!!! :y: Notice the reversed hotbox plate on the bottom of the early manifold.

I have compared shallow dish 5k & 4k-c against 3k-b. Guess who wins?

Nason Online Catalog

A Taiwanese company make them... Nason Auto Parts. AutoPro can get them. I've got 20thou shallows in my 5k. I do actually thing they do flat tops for 5k as well.

Damn YOU Stu! It possibly would be but it's done and paid for. Heavily discounted through Recarb. :wink: The twins would take a lot longer and i've currently go no transport. I can't even find a shop around here that deals with Solex carbs. The last bloke I took them to held them for 6 weeks, charged me $170 and barely touched them. After taking that sidedraft manifold off a few times, you kinda realise how inconvenient it is for maintenance. I've done a shitload of research on this carb and some say its camparable to a dcoe. It should provide more HP and maximum torque off the mark over the 32/36. The sacrfice is economy.

Since no ones got a 32/36 for me I'm forking out for a synchronous 38/38 Sports. Done with it. Which weber series is best for my needs?

Little closer, yet not. Cleaned up the wiring for the Streetfire with solder,heat shrink and conduit. Spent another 4 hours f@$king around with the 3k carby. We put replaced the primary jet. From 102 to 152(4k secondary jet) and the secondary stayed as a 163. To much fuel for the shit house amount of air this carby can pass. So much vacuum it actually sucks fuel out of the bowl. Runs well until you put load on the motor... frustrating! Somebody give me a weber!!! Before After

I recently bought a Haynes manual for the camry. Torque settings/original specs/clearances? Hit me up!