GJM85

That is hardcore grime. That engine has probably never been broken down.

Get the manual and follow it to the 'T'. The 4a-fc has slave cam design where the inlet camshaft is geared off the exuast camshaft. The timing belt only drives the exaust cam and the waterpump. The distributor runs directly out of the exaust cam aswell. It's a bastard of an engine. If you can manage to get the inlet manifold and carby off your doing great. The narrow valve angle A series engine is actually a far more complicated engine then other wide angle twin cam engines.

Finished the exaust yesterday. Got the thing started and it sounded like a tractor. Bad Bad Bad. After everything i've done, I decided to take the head off. Everything looks sweet except for the wobbly pistons. Turns out my original measurements were shit house. :glare: The block has an overbore of 20 thou and I used standard pistons. I'll show you what it sounds like. SLAPPITY SLAP SLAP! I'll upload some pics and video this arvo.

My mis-fortune has come at your benefit. After finally sorting out every possible deadend the problems have continued with my 5k. The issue, discovered today is a 20 thou oversize bore and the standard size pistons. SLAPPITY SLAP SLAP!!! :o This has given me the oppurtunity to take some measurements and compare 4k-c and a 5k bore wall and bore to water jacket thicknesses. First is the 4k then my 5k which is 20 thou over. Adding the 10 and 20 thousandth of an inch increase respectively i've come to the following conclusion... Measurements as follows 5k bore wall- 9.03mm 4k bore wall- 12.93mm 5k bore wall to inner jacket- 6.92mm 4k bore wall to inner jacket- 6.55mm Now i'll say these are not precise, exact as standard measurements. But what it tells me is that if you take the 4k's 75mm bore and 12.93mm bore wall out 5.5mm to 80.5mm, you'll end up with a bore to water jacket wall of 1.05mm. Which is f@$k all! Thank you and good night!

Indeed...

Don't you know bra? Chicks dig guys that a queer.

Got the hard part of the exaust done today. Thanks to JP for his mad stitching skillz. Flanged at the headers. Two and a half 90 degree bends. Extractors went on, then off again about 10 times to get that far. Should have it all finished off tomorrow. :laff: Hopefully get them carbs back on and get it running right. The final decision is a 2 inch mandrel bend system, over the gearbox cross member, 12inch Lukey Performance hotdog, over the diff, 15 inch Super Cat glass pack with a chrome angle cut tip. NOICE! Oh! And it's cheaper to buy a Nissan Exa with a CA-18DE 5 speed than it is to by a CA-18. 300 bucka! with targa top!

after 15 VB's i'm not too interested in reading much..... 8/

pistons, rings, timing kit, water pump, valve seals, valve re-seat, head shave?

I've personally never heard of anything of the sort. That doesn't mean it isn't a smashing idea. Best bet would be to kick off with 4ag-e intake manifold and get a template to suit the port design. Then get a k to webber adapter plate and design the runners and plennum. Would be far out! 4/2/13 I'm a monghead...

Considering the quarter window is a different shape and possibly longer in perimeter i'd call it an expesive gamble.

Take it too a mechanic. If you don't know much about engines, the last thing you want to do is start messing around with those slave cam engines.

I wish. Unless the transport department is open on Sunday I can't imagine she'll hit the road for another week or two.

I c said the flee. Maybe it's just my eyes or the body. Everything seems to measure up. With the exception of measuring the gaurd to the outer edge of the tyre. That't where the difference is.

read this.... ...hectic senior. :huh:

If its a shell that's prepped with no work involved other than swapping all the gear over, i'd say yes. But... when you pull a 35 year old car down, you will undoubtedly find things should be replaced.... We don't want your money, we just want you to spend it!

Tell me about it. I'd have fixed off the ke55 sway bar if the chassis didn't run on the inside of the floor pan in the rear end... That would have held the diff centre.

I used Phil's complete seal kit for $500 on my ke20. I called him direct and purchased them outside of ebay. It took about 5 days to recieve the complete kit. I got door seals, rear quarters windows, front and rear windscreens, bailey channel, interior and exterior weather strips and pedal rubbers. I was not dis-satisfied but the overall price was a little staggering The doors seals could be a little more bolstered to create a better seal and the windscreen seals split at the joins when I installed the windscreens myself. I patched them up with sicaflex. Not perfect, but what else can you do 40 years on...>? Make your own out of black silicon? :yak:

Why, specifically, to the passengerside? I've noticed the rear end of my 20 sits about 10mm out on the passenger side since I installed 50mm lowering blocks and the ke55 shocks...

Today I fitted the "early & adjustable" points dizzy, new condenser and breaker points. So damn original, it still has the clear adjustable advance cap and the dust cover that goes under the dizzy cap. My old man works at a school and has kept a overrated as 4K there for demos (good for parts):wink: . I modified the battery stand so the truck battery fit in (480 cold cranking amps), then I made the 'generic' battery clamp work and I installed the bosch super plus plugs and the Street Fire ignition control. Once finished, I started on the door cards. Having a f@$ked foot has its advantages... Then the beer came. :rock: :dancetall: This weekend the 2" straight through exuast gets done and hopefully WE can see this for real! ;)

3/4/5k motors are basically the same block, so you can use the 3k ones if there available.

There is only one thing to do when your hard done by. Lay a cable on the bonnet of a police car. "NATHAN! Your a bloody legend." >book< "No you not, your a f@$king fa**ot!"

I believe they use 3k heads with 3k pushrods and gutted 5k hydraulic lifters... ask Philby or Felix. I think that's the combo they used.

Hey bud, a hiace 5k will go straight back in there. It's kinda hard to lay it all out for you in one long sentence. I'd even consider rebuilding the 3k and making a screamer of a donk. 8 grand redline.... oh yeah! I put a 5k into my ke20. The conversion is simple, keep all your 3k gear handy. You'll need to swap thermostat housing, water pump, sump, flywheel and lose all the pollution gear and use the 3k intake getup!

Do have it done professionally you'll likely be looking at anywhere between 10 & 30 grand...