GJM85

Oh really? what's it packing? --- I started on the 2 of superlites this arvo. Somewhere along the line someones painted them with what appears to be a cheap silver so it's coming off. Paint brush, paint stripper, a few rags and the Gernie. Not sure if i'm going to repaint them or clear over the original casting. If I paint them, colour do you think I should run with? Be careful with the paint stripper. That shit burns. It also takes the clear of the rim and appears to enjoy the taste of rubber.

KE70 backing plates are different to the 30/55 ones. I used ke20 struts/stub axels, ke70 backing plates, rotors hubs and calipers, ke20 inner and ke70 outer bearing and I had to offset the rotors 3mm by machining the outer center face because there wasn't enough clearance between the backing plates and rotors to mount the caliper.

Little more done with the completion of the steering box, pitman arm and retensioning the control arms. I also ran new 3/8 fuel lines from the steel lines. I painted the sun visors black with the vinyl paint and got the fitted. It's all about the baby steps. Whilst under the car doing the steering I noticed a drop of oil hanging out of the extractors. Immediately started having horrible thoughts. I dropped the oil and there was no metal in there but it smelt like fuel and emptied at almost 4.5 litres. :bash: My guess is the ignition issue in cylinder 2 and 4, due to what I believe is a shod dizzy, has allowed unburnt fuel to reach the sump thinning the oil. This is then thrown back up into the top end, seeping into the bores and out the exaust. I hope this is the case anyway. The dizzy is definately going to the auto-leccy this week.

a lot start out that way, trying to restore them that is... then they end up with 4ag's, dish and lick of hypo-coloured paint.

just.... don't!

There not a bad motor at all. Not something you'd poor every dollar into, but a few cents spent in the right places will make a difference. A zorst is probably worth investing in if you don't over do it. Extractors, cat, 2 inch and a decent muffler<no japcans> will most likely see a fair increase in performance. Suspension would be a better initial investment. Then maybe brakes. It all depends on where you want to go with it and what type of car you want to be seen in... :wink:

Try running a 3k pre-pollution carby, they use vacuum secondaries, and putting a block of timber under your go pedal so you never get more than half throttle :wink: 500km to 37L = 7.4/100 & 600km is 6.1/100km. Entirely possible if you use angel gear, set a up sails on the roof and boot and cut flinstone holes in your floor. :P

413km from 37L is equal to 8.95L per 100km.

It's hard work to get 100hp out of a 5k without forced induction. Wet roads and bald tyres are your best friend.

Another step closer. Original KE20 pitman arm by Three Five. Should get into it tomorrow, fix up my leaking steering box and fit the new pitman. The idler arm looks to be quite new so i'll be leaving that alone.

I'm aiming for the 2in exaust, getting the dizzy regraphed and then hopefully getting the 20 on the dyno.

I don't think the SU rocketship would have a problem unless someone got pinged pulling O'ies in the Woolworths parking lot.

You just need to block off the air suction valve, and any other vacuum lines that run from the original intake setup. Get the 90 degree elbow, the reducer and your pod and pipe and your away. Most pod filters use 3 inch fittings and the top of the carby is smaller. I would also run the pod towards the front passenger side as far away from the engine as possible. Cool air is the key.

I gave the red rocket to my sister as her first car. It is lowered 2inches, 15in alloys from 13's, 2in exaust with 4in japcan and custom grill. She's been in it since February and hasn't had a problem. But this is Queensland. I think the focus is on xr6 turbos with P plates etc. Cosmetic mods aren't really life threatening are they? :hmm:

You'll need a slide hammer to change the valve seals and a spring compressor of sorts to remove the springs. I have seen a K- motor blow air and oil out the dip stick and rocker cover when a doodle bag I know put 5 litres in it. I also know a doodle bag who put 5 litres in his K motor, because it kept reading empty on the dipstick, because he didn't have a sump plug in. 5 litres looks like alot more when it's on the driveway. Oh' to be 15 again. :lolcry:

It may be a little late but you should always fix your earth with a bolt or screw and always disconnect your battery when fiddling with wiring.

Yes, it is very trick. :lolcry:

Spotted this photo on Boostcruising. Say HELLO!

It's worth absolutely nothing so i'll take it off your hands for that. :wink:

My '04 Camry Sportivo has ABS and EBD(electronic brake distribution) and I have never been able to lock the wheels. In the wet you can stomp the anchors hard as you can and it just pulls up hard and fast. ABS is good, but with EBD it is very super good.

You may just need Bendix pads & clean brake fluid. Check how worn the rotors are. You may also have siezed brake cylinders in the front.

Very neat 20. I like it alot. Is it running a Fedtro electric fuel pump, speco fuel regulator and a locked dizzy?

It's quite simple. Using the Kenwood wires, run a wire from your battery to the yellow wire(main). Tap into the cigarette light and bridge a wire to the red(accessories). Run a wire to a solid earth and hook it up to black. That will enable your stereo to turn on and off and retain memory without draining your battery wire. From there just run new speaker wires or track down the current one and hook them up as I stated in the previous post, making sure positive and negative don't cross over between the head unit and speakers or they'll be out of phase and sound like poop. It is very easy.

Hard to say with out really being there. It could be easier to rewire the whole lot. Usually this: Yellow - battery/main power Red - accessories/ignition Black - Earth Blue - remote amplifier grey & grey/black - front right white & white/black - front left purple & purple/black - rear right green & green/black - rear left they are the main wires, usually anyhow.