GJM85

"It'sa me! Mario!"

SCrap the roof racks man. That thing is full race! In Australia, a 4 door ke20 is a jewel amoung jewels

Spent a good 6 hours on the project today. The results are the wife is pissed I spent so long away, and I mean really really pissed off! tail lights in lume is down door seals in door handles in rear 1/2 windows in C pillar finishers, interior and exterior are in bonnet grills in sound deadening sprayed on inner front quarters rust is ground back and resprayed where they dodged on the gaurd rails 60% of the dash is in and that's all I can think of. Lots of painting today. Lots of beer too. Ain't nothing getting in the way of progress, except the wife...

It's only one spot they've missed and the rest is an easy fix. Still, i'm staying positive, MSR did a really good job getting the real nasty shit sorted so i'm still happy. Good to see JP has no issues with smearing people's names around town....

Well yeah it all comes down to application of the vehicle. If you want a drift pig or dragster harden the rear end. If you want a car that handles on Australia's dog shit roads you need something a little firmer but not stiff in the rear to help maintain rear end traction and somthing firm in the front to help with body roll and weight distribution. You need to find a balance somewhere.... and this is what i'm trying.

Please do....

That's right! Lowering blocks won't change the ride. So it will still remain a fairly soft rear end depending on what shock absorbers I use. The front end will be fairly stiff the way its being set up because that's where the weight and body roll is generated. There isn't nearly as much weight in the back end, so having stiff suspension will make that shit bounce. I drive the work ute often. A Ford Courier. When its loaded up on the back the ride is smooth. But with no weight on the arse it bounces all over the road because the springs are so hard to take weight. Same theory applies here. Lowering blocks will change the ride height but not the ride... Mark my words... this car will corner like a minx and still be comfortable.

I'm getting conflicting information either way. Some say yes, others say no, others say it depends on the application. They are only $80 so, if after a short time I get the shits it won't be a difficult change to resets.... Today I hit the front inner guards with stone guard and had a look at the test viewed the superlites. The body still needs to come down 2 inches...

According to Andrew they are up to 2 inches, but i'll check the modifications handbook....

quote name='phat_20' timestamp='1288245840' post='478689'] The paint looks awsome....bangin build dude. Can't wait to see this 20 finished. :y: Cheers buddy. I can't get over the colour it's completely orginal... I spent 3 hrs pulling the front struts out last night and I took them to Andrew at Southside Engineering. I had a real good look at his little ke20 track while I was there. It's tight. Andrew is going to source the 50mm lowering springs, then find some inserts to match the high and get spacers made so I don't need to f@$k with the overall length of the leg. He'll also be getting the bump stop and rear lowering blocks for me.I decided to go with the 2 inch lowering blocks instead of having the rear springs reset. Two main reasons... a smoother ride and cost effective. I ordered the gear for the front end. inner tie rods outer tie rods stabilizer bush set lower ball joints idler arm kit I've ordered and recieved my complete rubber kit from Phils Rotaties and ordered black loop pile carpet from Knox Auto carpet.

Yeah neat... but it's not about me. It's about upholding a manner of decorum which creates a professional and informative place for corolla lovers and owners to come and discuss/learn/create/share in there own way. When a new comer says they tried searching for info and couldn't find anything senior members shouldn't give them a sarcastic or comical bitch slap and send them on their way with a link. What's more annoying than repetive basic knowledge questions from noobies is predictable slapper talk from seniors. Intellectual superiority...

It's easier to keep clean. Or not clean..... (ie. dirt and grease doesn't stand out so much).

I'm sick of the lack of respect by people around here. Attitude is a contagious form of respect and round here its poor. I've been around highly moderated forums in the past and I don't feel that key individuals lead by example on this forum. power corrupts....

Go easy buddy. If there's one thing I 'dislike' more than mods its wannabe mod's.... respect given is respect earnt. It's about 70 hp for the 5k. Or so they say.

I'd say that's a typo or he doesn't have a f@$king clue. it's a 4a-c head. cross flow, big arse timing gear....

After a long afternoon, finally got the beast home. It's sweet. Your eye knows when it's seeing a colour it has never seen before. f@$kin awesome in the sun.

I hope so...

The 20 is coming home tomorrow afternoon! WOO MUTHA f@$kER WOO!!!!!

A '74 corolla boss kit fit on my ae92 seca. I dare say yes....

I've got an astra. the wheel nuts have the wheels studs on them. there are no studs on the hub. it's backwards german crap. leave the wheel nuts half screwed in and take a big hammer or lump of 4X2 to the inside of the rim whilst rotating it. it will eventually give in. as for a good tyre budget tyres.... CHEN SHAN all the way! You won't find them at good tyre dealers. You'll need to to go budget tyre dealer and at $89 for a 195x50 R15, you can't go wrong. NB: budget rubber equals good smoke....

my camry sportivo is like wise to your tacho, the actual redline starts at 6500 but when it gets to 6000 it lights up orange as if to say, "that's enough". She only ever goes there when your bagging it out of the macca's car park. The owners manual states peek power at 5,500rpm

polish polish, change gear, polish polish, check your mirrors, polish polish, murder a prostitute, polish polish, change gear.

water temp is good betweeb 80 and 90 degrees and a standard k motor has 6000rpm redline.

I think it may have had something to do with the cam he used...

Couldn't be sure but i'd say around 5 or 6mm on my heads. Buy a ACL rebuild kit to suit shallow dish pistons and get a 4k-5k head without lugs. You'll need to check the crank sizes to get the right size bearings. Check the bore in the block to see if you'll need oversize pistons. Source your lifters, pushrods and rocker gear. Then get your cam ground to suit. Start reading the FAQ. It's a good starting point. I'd be happy to help with any questions or advice though there are many far superior to I.