GJM85

The lower air box is situated in that front gaurd and it has an opening below towards the road. I believe it is effectively a resonator of sorts. It just balances the intake pressure by allowing excess airflow to exit instead of creating a ram effect, increasing pressure in the intake line.

Just got home from a bender with the blue beast. Will update tomorrow if I took any pics. Not sure if I took any. :guiness: :guiness: :guiness: :cmonkey:

I think I need an extreme clutch.... and maybe a new clutch cable for the 20....

If you do manage to find the 3f landcruiser solids or the 5k solids then you will also need to locate a set of 5k solid pushrods(ball and bucket). They are a different length to the 4k ones. If you then choose to run with the 202 lifters you will need the a12 pushrods. hard to find but not as hard as 5k solid pushrods....

10 inches aye? what sort of diff are you using?

Young fello. Get that car out from the bush and assess the extent of the body and structural work needed to salvage it. I can see years of prospecting just to restore it to begin with. You'll need to find a ke20 to scab bits off where you can. Before you even think about a motor, get it garaged and stripped. I spent over 7000$ on body work on my 20 and it looked alot better than your 17 does at the moment, so I hope your good with your hands. I feel your sleeper could stay sleeping....

Is that a pic rollin through Nerang? Looks wicked.

It's been almost 2 weeks so here;s an update. The front end is completely rebushed with new tie rods and ball joints. The sway bar links my brother made turned out sweet. Still waiting on the struts to come back from Southside Suspension so I started on some interior. Got the rear cards painted with vinyl paint and fitted some JVC 290W 6X9's. Got onto the local upholsterer an he reckons two or three months to upholster my seats so I'm looking elsewhere. I've made the boot liners (base and sides) with some 3mm MDF and some black boot liner from Clark Rubber. Not finished but looks sweet. I forgot to send the taillight finishers in with the car so they didn't get painted. I hit em with silver and clear. It's different but looks alright. I got the rear bumper fitted with a shit load of fuss but it's on. Got the diff cleaned up, resealed and painted. New brake cylinders and shoes. Looks the mustard on my hotdog. :happy: Can't remember what else so here's some pics.

if you've got the 5k solids li'F'ters, 4k head and rocker gear than all you need is the 3k pushrods... good luck.

you'll need to find out what lifters your cam is made to suite. there's a difference.

This shit ain't as easy as people here make out. You need to know what 5k engine you have, what engines your heads are from, what type of lifter your cam is ground to suit and what parts you have on hand. If you can give us that information we can help you out. D shaped piston 5k or O shaped piston 5k? dished piston 4k head or flat top piston 4k head? solid lifters or hydraulic lifters currently? Do you have the original 5k head, rocker assembly and pushrods?

No. That's something different altogther and it's closed off unless the engine is cold.. On the ae92 4af-c the primary intake sits behind the head light. Between the bumber and right side wheel arch there is a air box that draws from the wheel arch. This is the piece I removed from my seca and where I pulled it from.

the 4a-fc used a get-up like this to regulate air pressure, though i've drawn a demo using your set up.

no difference. though different brands have different designs...

I had a ke70 flat, rolling low on sugar beans. It was sky blue and super race...

Your nice clean head is the D dished 5k which will require the shorter pushrods. The head is approximately 6mm shorter than the other hence the difference in pushrods. One 5k is O dish and will require the taller head....

A well worn in set of lifter won't come out without pain anyway....

Charter boat? What charter boat?

...... :poke: ....................that is all.

I've got the "link" bushes but the sleeve that separates the top bushes from the lower ones is completely siezed....

Unfortunately, 3k pushrods don't fall from the sky....

Spent a couple of hours this arvo pulling the control arms, tie rods and sway bar rods out. Its all really old shit and the sleeves wouldn't come off the sway bar rods so I couldn't get them off the sway bar. Going to have to cut them off and my brothers going to machine up some one piece rods with nuts both sides to avoid this problem in the future. The ball joints are original and so are the control arm bushes. Obviously something that no one ever touches in these cars. Can't complain about the quality of the bushings in the day though.... Dad's going to press out the old control arm and press in the new ones tomorrow. Still waiting for a set of idler arms to come up from Melbourne and still trying to source the sway bar to chassis bushes. Last resort will be getting them out of Singapore which will be a f@$k off kinda wait. Here's some uneventful pics and some shots of the rear quarter glass seals for harun.

Got another 3 hours into car today. Completed bailey channel and weather strips in front door windows in inner door handles in dash 100% complete fuel tank painted and in fuel wall in rear end of the lume all wired up wire wheeled the shit off the ke55 diff

I found the dude on ebay, but I just called him up and told him I wanted the complete rubber kit. You can order indiviual stuff aswell but he only sells as pairs. KE20 1/4 side rubber Phils Rotories PH: 07 3205 4433