GJM85

That's all i'm doing. 6X9's in the rear cards where the orginals came out and a head unit in the glove box. It's a small car dude.

Can't imagine there's going to be a great deal of options without a great deal of work. Especially with that kind of weight in the front. Perhaps look into a ke55 diff and 228mm rear drum set up. The front will be your trouble.

to bad there not 4inch. There are holes under the front dash panel, right under the windscreen. I think they used 5X7.25 inch speakers but 4 would fit nicely. I didn't fit speakers there in mine. It's just extra weight.

The lowest point i'd guess. On mine it's the gearbox crossmember which stands 140mm from the deck. I still need to run my exuast either under it or over it if it will squeeze in.

Yep just waiting on induction and i've gotta wire up the dizzy. Otherwise just a couple of bits to fit and its brappin. Then i'll have the interior to worry about.

I know the lynx manifolds are shorter but i'm not entirely sure where'd you find one. Relationship of Intake Port to Torque Peak This is interesting. For a 5k with peak torque at 7500rpm a 7.9 cubic cm intake runner per cylinder is ideal for minimum airflow resistance. As estimation of course. It would be interesting to know the volume of the runners in a lynx and a redline manifold for comparison.

Most of the front end is on now. Including the bonnet & catch. Still have to straighten the grill as it looks on the piss, clean up the front bumber or find a new one and clean up and fit the bonnet garnish. Everthing in the front end has been fitted or redrilled and fitted with zinc plated M8 bolts and nylock nuts. I think it looks PHAT!!!

I'm using a redline manifold with solex carbs and I have about 45mm between the the strut tower and the cylinder 3 runner in the ke20.

I would say the all wheel disc braking capacity of a corona would be sufficient for the relative engine upgrade. Although the output differs between the 2l engines, braking capacity is determined by vehicle weight. The heavier the car the harder it is to stop. Therefore the ae71's curb weight would be less than that of a corona and therefore a sufficient brake enhancement for the vehicle.

The Logan river has risen about 8m up my end the river way will take a 10mm rise before it goes over but towards to the coast its over. About 1:30 we got a downpour that lasted 30minutes. 15 minutes in, the water outside had risen up and above the level of the concrete and flowed in under the corregated iron. Happens whenever riduculous amount of water comes of the sky in a short amount of time because the drainage systems here are f@$ked, so everything of value is off the floor and all my gear is in the big containers you can see in the pics. Good thing dad's house is on stilts too....

According to my Greogory's KE55 manual the Borg Warner diff in manual vehicles is 4.11

Tieing up some loose ends today. Fitted two missing gearbox bolts, the gearbox cross member bolts, fitted the selector and fitted a plate over the big hole where the select use to be. The rear half of the carpet is down. New heater hoses, and radiator cap. Got my roof mounted aerial fitted to the guard... uber cool. Painted up the bonnet hinges and stand. Fitted the fender indicators and beaver panel. Then the flood came and put an end... ...to everything.

If Va-JJ's were Chasers i'd drive em all night long....

bahahahaha

Head isn't something i'm proficient in, but if I had to, I'd take a bit off the tip to ensure I never had to do it again.... :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry:

I think he's just talking about the rear shock absorbers. If he is talking about front strut inserts, I think pedders do a comfort ride short stroke insert but only to suit 38mm lower and there is no straight forward strut swap for a ke20. Modified control arms would be required. The struts would then need to be shortened to maintain the ke20 geometric stance. The struts would then required shorter inserts and springs. Not cheap. I went 55mm lower in the front but the suspension shop had to shorten the strut leg. Kings only make a 38mm lowered spring so mine were recoiled to suite 55mm. No one makes a short stroke insert to suit a 50mm lower spring so 'Boge' VW golf mk1 short stroke inserts were used with bump stops. Its more like a half coil over. The rear I used 50mm lowering blocks ke55 leaf springs and 'Boge' ke55 shocks. It went like this...

I used Boge ke55 replacements. Solid as. Had use a 2mm sleeve inside the lower eye. You could also drill the lower shocky mount to suit the 16mm eye on the shock...

Can't say i've ever experienced it but that could well be an effect duue to the clutch plate not actually being stabilized on the spline. There is however, a pin that links the throwout bearing to the clutch lever assembly. If your missing that strange looking pin your throout bearing could be free bangin also.

I bought an aftermarket ke20 alternator regulator of ebay. Could have been sold by someone of this forum. It plugs straight in where the old one was, with the exception of the blue wire. What is the blue wire.

this could very well be the problem. 5k flywheels have 200m clutch face instead of the 180mm 4k flywheel. the 5k clutch then also suits a 21 tooth input shaft and the k series gearboxes have a 19 tooth input shaft, with the exception of extremely rare k50 gearboxes which did have a 21 tooth shaft. extremely rare...

it depends entirely on how you treat the car. a pbr clutch will do the job but if your hard launching and flat changing everywhere then it will wear out faster than usual. if that's how you want to drive, get the exedy. it's only money....

1 1/2 inch lowering blocks for the rear - $90 or so. 1 1/2 inch kings springs for the front - $125 or so. if you want to go lower your looking at $250 for 2inch because they don't make springs lower than that for the front. they have to be recoiled. It cost $740 to have my struts shortened, short stroke inserts and recoiled 1 1/2 inch springs to 2 1/4 inches and that lowered the front a total of 55mm. you can get 2 inch lowering blocks for the rear also, but i'd recommend upgrading to a ke55 shocky to add a bit of hard to the rear end and there about $160 a pair depending on brand. you'll also need a sleeve for the lower shocky eye because the 20 shock uses a 12mm pin and the 55 uses a 16mm pin.

Depends on the brand and the clutch. For a basic HD option your looking at anywhere between $180-$300.

Good luck buddy! But looks can be decieving...

5g on body body work! :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: What are you rebuilding? a micromachine?