GJM85

may well have found my new driveline. 5sp gearbox, tailshaft, diff, leaf springs and rear drums. woot woot!

What the easiest booster upgrade for a ke20? I'll be using ke70 front discs and ke55 rear drums and i'm not sure the standard master cylinder will do the job. Any ideas or know how?

Just ordered some new lightweight Datsun A12 pushrods. The pusrod length me and dad worked out was 153mm. The A12 rods are 152mm. WOO HOO!!!

At the next stage of body work. Ken at MSR is awesome at what he does....

my budget for the body work is sky f@$king high! The engine is under budget though, and i'm hoping the rest of the driveline will be too....

a worked 4k will shit all over 4ac. I had an ae71 spirit and rebuilt the 4ac.... poo monkeys....

Think about this.... the standard ke20 carb on a 3k had like 50mm of throttle body. 2 X 25mm primary and secondary. With twin 40mm webbers you have 160mm of throttle body and a 5k's larger displacement. Naturally you will use 4 times as much fuel. You could switch to a single DCOE webber and manifold or 3kb manifold with a DGV downy for a sacrafice in power. If your interested in that, i'm sure you would find someone interested in swapping.... There is this single webber manifold... you could expect to double your fuel economy by just using one of you webbers. ............you need to get some fresh photos up. My 20 is in for paint in the next week or two so I wanna see what I can expect.

Blue star sapphire. Toyota Colour Codes

I'm still trying to source a diff and rear brake upgrade for my 20. Will KE70 axles, brakes and centre fit into a ke20 housing?

yeah i'm special.... but i've already respayed the centres in silver and clear so I just have to polish the rim.... I repacked the wheel bearings today. Dirty work. I'll get new brake pads and shoe tomorrow and do the brakes all round with a fluid change. I'll also try and do the gearbox oil if I get time.

Heard from MSR Kustoms today. The 20 is in primer!!! I'm going in tomorrow to have a look. I'll get some snaps. They reckon it'll be painted next week so i'll probably pick it up the week after!!! NB: it's more than I budgeted for....

That picture makes me resent Australian road rules...

/sep your sense of humour is dead man, DEAD!

Yes. I stand corrected. A 1770CC T series engine. I imagine in would be the same block again. a 85/78 Bore and Stroke. No doubt a much large combustion chamber and high top pistons... produced 95 hp (71 kW) at 5400 RPM and 109 ft·lbf (147 N·m) at 3400 RPM 13T-U

I'm sure you mean 3T-U. My dad put a 3T in my KE70 when I moved on to a AE71.

The problem is, when the 4AGE is spent and done...you've lost 50% of the value of the car. These 20's are between 36 and 40 years old and the value will just keep climbing from here. When someone goes out to buy a car like this, they look for something that hasn't been modified, so they can rebuild and customise the car their own way and become "one with the rolla". If you plan on keeping the car forever and consider yourself a true lover of 'make' then by all means cut, shut and f@$k the shit out of it. If you're the person, like many others, who gets bored after 2 years and tries to sell a half completed or half arsed project then I suggest you leave it ridgy-didge, keep it immaculate and sell it for increased margin.... ....at the end of the day, if you can't afford the engine you want, you can't afford to get it in there. 5K ALL THE WAY!!! :rocknroll: :rocknroll: :rocknroll: :rocknroll: :rocknroll:

also depends on how flat a 5k flat top piston is.

I sorted it out today. The idle screw was all the way out.

I started on the measly five spots of rust today. The interior is so good, yet the body so bad. I swear its taken a hit on all corners. It's sad that the previous owner felt the need to bush bash this beauty. Still, its under way. Got the 4k running smooth and quiet. Made a battery clamp. Swapped the rocker cover and found a rock in there. Flushed the cooling system and degreased the engine. The new to do list: Tie rod ends repack the wheel bearings finish the rust repairs respray where needed flush the brake and clutch fluid

It idles well but if you give it a boot full it will konk out when you back right off. When coming to a stop a the T section it will stop if you don't heel and toe that shit.

Got the beast running today! Woo Hoo! The previous owner had the dizzy 180 degrees out and had fitted the leads accordingly to make it run. 10 points for Evan-G. I took it for a blat and it doesn't miss a beat...until you come to a stop and it does to. Haven't figured that out yet but i've an inkling its got something to do with the vacuum crap that we've been f@$king with. Also did an oil & filter change and fitted my dash mat and fluffy dice.... WOO HOO!

Wheels are on with some new yoko's 175/70. Looks sweet. Still can't start the bastard. Changed the carby this arvo. It's got fuel, spark, timing and compression. It blows fire out the carby and farts out the arse but just won't run. I'd want to run if I had new shoes....

people brake down to, unfortunately someone else has to die to fix them...ie) a lung, kidney, liver, face or starter.

I'm chasing 70mm centre caps and so far i've found plenty of 50,55,60 & 80mm caps. Damn you Cheviot!!! The wheels look sweet though.

yeah one mag had a centre cap and 3 wheel nuts siezed into it. but that is all.