GJM85

wheels aquired....

I purchased this '81 KE55 Sedan off ebay for $660 as a donor car for my KE20 build. 225,000KM. Fortunately but unfortunately i've decided to keep the car complete and restore her to orginal condition. I'm not entirely sure of it's history but its in need of panel work, veery minor rust repair and some paint on the front left quarter and door. I love the colour... It's a 4-kc, 5 speed gearbox, which may end up in my KE20. Runs well mechanically and no smoke. It still has leaded fuel in the tank, which I believe is the reason behind the idleing problem being 10 year old fuel. Plans for the car are- *4speed gearbox *cheviot meshies *3kb manifold *service brakes, engine and suspesion. *perhaps a slightly larger exaust but not loud. *and any other good bits left over from the 20 build. Not sure on any performance upgrades, I just want to get it register and drive it. Some pictures... haven't taken many since I got it and they were posted on my other thread.

Those holes are for pollution gear that runs from the exaust ports.... my 5k had the pollution gear when I bought it.

I see you plan on catching fire..... is that because your donk is red hot>??? ;)

Pull the bastard out and pull it apart. Piece by piece down to the block. It will blow your mind how basic these motors are. Your looking at about $480-$570 for an ACL rebuild kit and $135 for a timing kit. Head reconditioning for $300-$1000 depending on the condition. If your confident there is nothing wrong with the bottom end you can get a VRS kit and just do the valve seats, seals and gaskets off ebay for about $80-$170. If you want it rebuilt by a professional you can add labour at about $100p/hr for 4-8 hours. Plus add for any mods you want done. I'm rebuilding a 5k and the only tools i've bought are, a piston sleeve, valve spring clamp and a die grinder for the port work.

I recently had to sit down and weigh up the same thing. Looked at the DGV. You can buy a recoed one off ebay for about $600, full kit and kaboodle, ready to bold on! Gems Parts Australia quoted me $1095 for a single 45mm DCOM Webber and manifold, full kit ready to bolt on. I'd say a 40mm would be about a $100 less and $230 for the just manifold. A set of twin 40/45mm DCOM Webbers with manifold and full linkage kit was $1495 and $1595 respectively and $330 for the manifold. Big money! Big enough to make me hunt around till Dad decided to front up with what he was hiding. If you look hard enough and have some flexibility, you get what you need.....

Not entirely sure on the progress of the body. They've asked me to come in and look at the progress on saturday. It's been in for a month now so i'm hoping to see some form of magic.....

Picked up some more stuff today. One step closer.

This car is now for sale as per request of the owner... If interested please call JP on 0449591293.

Got the holden lifter in yesterday. We worked out the pushrod length with the venier caliper. Not sure on the overall length of a 4k pushrod they need to be cut down 31mm. We tried on one rod by hacksawing it down then milling the pushrod ball out of the off-cut. They appear to be spot welded in..... They will all be cut down, oxy heated, ends pressed in and then silver solded. Sweet as. Today, I went past Moss Street so I stopped in to Autobarn and I ordered a redline twin dcoe manifold and a BBR clutch. Sweet. Then I dash directly over the road to Right Price Exausts and enquired about some extractors. They just so happened to have a set of Hurricane short 4-1 extractors on shelf. New old stock, so they are a little scratched up, but that means 25% off!!! Perfecty Sweet!

don't soil the name that is TOYOTA with the name that is mazda. yes they are madaz. but i say NOOOOOOOOO!!!!! :rolls:

recieved my new dash pad today. WOOHOO! cheers Raven.

It's cool. the interior look clean. Buy some cans of degreaser and blast the shit out of the engine bay. Check all your vacuum lines around the carby and hit it with some carby/throttle body cleaner. Get new oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, leads, distributer cap, rotor button points. The timing and rocker clearence is critical so get it done. You could probably do all that for under $200 and would make it 5 times nicer to drive. Also if the AC doesn't work pull all that shit out unless you plan on getting it regased.

Yeah man. She turns clean and smooth. Timing is spot on. Dad helped me with that. The dizzy dropped in and we realised it was a tooth forward when we lined up the timing marks and the rotor button was ahead of the #1 cap terminal instead of behind. I'm beaming with confidence.

Certainly did. Zoe's older brother.

Much progress on the motor today. Thanks to my Dad for much useful engine buildings tips.I picked up the cam from Tighe's on Friday. Hot of the mill. Literally. I don't think he was impressed with how impatient I am. Tough titties. A few changes. Using the 4k fuel pump because its larger volume. 4k alternator and water pump. The water pump I pulled of the spare 4k was clean as on the inside so we decided it won't hurt to use it as with the fuel pump. Went to Dad's today and pulled the 5k back out. We got the spare 4k crank in, pistons, cam and twin timing gear. Then we did the rear main seal, electric dizzy, timing cover, shimmed oil pump, 4k sump and 5k harmonic balancer. We then moved on to the gearbox mounts, oil regulator, 4k fuel pump, 4k water pump and finally the 4k alternator mounts.... :lolcry: The head is sitting on and we were ready to do execute the exact math to determine the pushrod length when I realised I left the new lifters at home. That in turn put an end to my ever productive day. HOORAY! ....and the pics. PS: I don't think i'll be using the 3kb manifold I just had milled out (viewable in last image) so I am considering putting it up for sale. Also say "hello" to Rozza. He's the hairy VB drinking dude who sat there the whole day watching us work.

Good work Des. Good work.

You know what happened when they tried to bring frankenstien back to life... he killed, his master. I can imagine the story would be the same with......Frankenrolla.

I was 14 last time I looked at it.... :lolcry:

This thread is like rotten.com all over again.....kill it! KILL IT! :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :yak:

it will add 5hp and 12 style points... but really when it comes to pinstriping...whether it be a stripe 1" or 1' wide, it's all down to personalisation. When I bought my Seca I ran a silver stripe from the head light down to the tail light. After a year I decided that in itself needed to be broken with a black underlining stripe........ :lolcry:

1 million dollars!!! MUAHAHAHAHAHA!!! >pinky in mouth<

Picked up the cam today and started pulling apart the spare 4k for the crankshaft. Sunday being father's day and being a father the ball and chain should at least allow mme to spend some time getting the engine back together. I've been looking around for some induction all week. People just aren't satisfied with making a buck these days. They all want to make two. It looks like i'm going to set up a pair of twin 40mm solex's that have been sitting around in dad's garage for a few years to begin with. Until, the SC12, I can work out what to do with it and where to do get it done. f@$king ebay conmen. :hmm: Spoke to MSR yesterday. They've completed the left side of the weather channnel and just need to finish the around the B pillar. Completely remade the weather channels. So they say it'll probably be another 2 weeks before they finish the right side then another week or two on the front end.... I know these things take time but f@$k.... I'm paying a premium....

I see you have taste. Good stuff!

Each to their own buddy. My brother had an S14 Pulsar Ti import with an SR20 bigport, EMS, injectors, exaust. It was lowered on 17x7" rims. Fast little hatch I must say but when it came to cornering it would just understeer onto the opposite lane of the road. My ae92 corolla seca with 15"x 6.5" wheels left it for dead in the corners. Yes. they are front wheel drives but the principles in turning cirlce and grip are the same.