GJM85

If your looking for a solid oil that minimized smoke but still gives a relatively good visc rating Gulf Western Engine Extender is the shit... 25w60

Once I get the cam back I can drop in the followers, sit the head on top with the rocker gear assembley set at centre adjustment. From there I should be able to get a perty close pushrod length by using the shorter pushrod and measuring the excess distance. It shouldn't matter if I'm a f@$kteenth out because the rocker gear is adjustabl.e :blinks: Got the sump off the 4k today. Wire wheeled it back and painted it. I still have a few coats to go. I also dropped the pistons in and tensioned up the big ends only to fond about a mm worth of play with new bearings... uh oh! The crank bigend measures in at 41.42mm. It's obviously had a crank grind, so we measured the crank out of the donor 4k. It stands at 42.42mm. The result is.... where swapping the cranks... should save me buying a set of oversized bearings :jamie:

Well it's common knowledge that liquid thins out at high teperatures.... the test would there for become, which oil thins out the most, at the average temperature. If you heated both oils to a constant 85C I would bet the 20-60 engine oil is still thinner.... I'm using the same penrite in my engine assembly process.

Did you get your falcon springs in the back? What else did you do up in there?>

Unfortunately with 3 kids, a wife and work, I don't have time to f@$k around. But yeah the trick with the cam, lifters, rockers, valvesprings and head is all going to come down to the pushrods. The lift of the cam should be within the limits of the springs and clearances. The saving grace is the excessively long 4k pushrods which will be shortened once it all comes together. So the combination stands at- 5k block and bottom end. 4k sump and shimmed oil pump. Tighe 104 cam & 202 solid lifters. Ported and polished 4k head and valves(grind and reseat). 4k rocker gear and 5k valve springs. The hard part is working out the pushrod length. As for the blower... it's probably the last thing on my mind. I .eally need to get the car back together and run the motor in before I start worrying about it,

My first look at the the legendary OKE20 & the 20 at full song 3/4 track.

Had a real good look at this...

This is the damage on the lobes of the blower.... uncool and most likely unusable. :blinks: Also got the crank back together today.... i'll hopefully get the pistons in tomorrow. Took the 5k cam into Tighe this morning. He's recommended the Tight104 25/65 grind... $150 pick it up Tuesday! Also some pics from Jamboree! I'll also post the respective vehicles pictures on their respective threads.

My home port job. I bought a $38 die grinder and a $45 alloy cutter.... The head went in for a reface, valve grind and pressure test.... they polished my ports :blinks:, pressed and changed my cam bearing, honed the gudgeon bearings to suite the acl gudgeons and milled out the throats on the big port maniold.... I also managed to pick up my 4k twin timing chain.

Got the laptop back so here's some photos of the 20 in MSR Kustoms and the surpise that was waiting for us.

Yeah i'll have to give them a call. I did some research on it though. Solid lifter cams have a quitening ramp and hydraulic cams don't. This I think makes it difficult to convert a hydraulic cam into a solid cam. If you use hydraulic lifters with a solid cam you'll end up with lifter pump. If you use solid lifters on a hydraulic cam you get valve float. Both result in excessive tappet noise. Gonnn have to pull the 4k cam out tomorrow and run it down to tighe....

Not sure what happened with the blower........ it might still be ok. Took the cam into the recon shop where they were doing my cam bearings, gudgeon bearings, head and manifold. I asked them to get the cam ground to the Wade169 spec. 30-70, 280 degrees, 0.405" valvelift. They told me they phones Watsons Cam Grinding or some place and he told them he'll do it but i'll have to use hydraulic lifters. Original toyota parts and new ones at that. I told them I want it done for solids and i'm using new holden lifters. They told me he won't do it because the cam will wear to fast. Are they shitting me or am I retarded?

neat... i love corolla...

Doesn't appear to be peeling. Looks like a rock or something has gone through it a couple of times.

As Des said the auto are shit... get a manual. Tough manual gearbox :) The exaust systems rust out real quick as well. I know a couple of people who've had their mufflers rust right off. Driving my bosses trayback, you can't see the car behind you if it's closer than 100m.

the paddles in the blower look like someone's tried to replace airflow with nuts and bolts. messy. but i still may get away with it.

Just got the SC12 in the mail..... doesn't look i'll be supercharging this engine anymore..... :jamie:

I'm obviously someone who f@$ks around with shit they don't know. I'll sort this out my own way...............................

I'm using a 4k head so even if I use the standard hydraulic lifters won't I have an issue with pushrod length anyway? I can still run with the hydraulics i'll just have to let the shop know before they do the cam. This k motor business isn't as easy some people make out....

aahhhh No! I can't find any info to say that a 4k lifter will work in the 5k. I'm not interested in play trial and error with this motor either so as far as I've worked it, i'll continue with the 202 lifters and shortened pushrods.... ...still trying to find a good cam spec.

interesting.... indeed. the only difference I can see between the 4k and 5k is the lifters, pushrods and the rocker gear. I didn't know the 4k had solid lifters. There is 30mm difference in pushrod length and the 5k rocker assembly isn't adjustable....

Looks like a like it may have operated driving lights or spotties. Though it could be dRIFT switch!

OK, late update. dropped the laptop. Busted the screen. It's now in the shop so I had to set up the old PC and get a wireless adapter so I could get online.... The rust in the 20 is bad, really bad.... The arse end is finished and the moved on to the sides where they found rust from the start of the weather channel near the windscreen all the way back and around to the front of the rear quarter glass. Both sides, hidden by about 50 tins of bog. I have decided to move on with the project though the estimate another 2k on body work.... there goes the budget. The engine is under way. Got and ACL rebuild kit and holden lifters. Took the block and conrods into the recon shop for the cam bearing and gudgeon bearing change. Also took the head and valves in for a pressure test, shave and valve regrind and reseat. The 3k-b manifold is also in for a beadblast and to have the throats milled out. Taking the cam so they can get the regrind and possibly the flywheel if they can shave it for me. Using the 4k pushrods, rocker gear and valves in the 4k head but with 5k springs. My old man is going to rework the 4k pushrods for me as they'll stand almost 20mm to long with the solid lifters. I'll try and get some photos up tomorrow...... PEACE

I think they define "sexy" as that which you are most likely to attempt to mount and/or dry hump. Now we must make comparison as to a woman.... I can't say i'd be interested in mounting a large discruntled sounding beast with flared nostrils and thunder thighs.....

taking the cam for my 5k in tomorrow. need the cam specs pronto! I'm converting to solid lifters. The bottom end is all standard ACL gear. Using 4k head, valves, rocker gear and shortened 4k puhrods with 5k valve springs. Ported the head and will be supercharging this motor. From the FAQ's on camshafts I'm running with the 25-65, 270 degrees, 0.423" valvelift. The question is will this be ideal for my engine???