JDM55

here ive moved to the vice ,makes life a little easyer when sanding for long periods, this is at about 180#/240# stage

awww yeah very helpful there mate ,thanks definatley look into those ,yeah probably better to replace them i think too, probably would get away with them but who knows if there still as strong as they once were,and yeah fly wheel chopping my legs off isnt my idea of a rip roaring good time :hmm:

so a basic run down of the grades for those who don't know would go something like this:: 80# very ruff and good for removing mold lines with out doing to much damage 120# 180# also a good starting grade for things that are say maybe flat with out mold lines or grain 240# 320# 500# 600 wet, :::::: this is where you would introduce using water with the sanding ,by this stage scratches are getting very fine and you want to keep the item very clean while sanding , even a small piece of metal or grit sliding over the surface of what your been sanding can leave a nasty scratch causing you to have to back up thru the grades in that area to remove that scratch, so heaps of water and clean sand paper are important here, 800# wet 1000# wet 1200# wet 1500# wet thats the basic run down if you wanted to do a realy nice job and take the time to sand thru all the grades, ive also found a litle trick for cheating ,that is around the 600-800 grade mark you could introduce red scotch brite, which is much more flexable than sand paper and makes getting into hard shapes alot easyer, i also developed that trick one step further and cut scotch brite up into disks and then would bolt 3 disks together and stick them on a drill, this way i could mow down that section alot quicker and get into alot more areas that the sand paper would other wise struggle to reach,,,,

you can see here how the rusty corosion is just about all gone and your left with raw alloy to work on, now check this shell half out,a lot more complicated than the front one,but again using the same process, ie air sander or electric first(realy help) then going over by hand ,getting the hard parts,maybe using a dremel for the realy small gaps can help too, ahh love the look of raw alloy , :happy:

so the basic process with polishing (this is how i do it any way) goes a little like this:::: you would start off with a fairly ruff grade of sand paper,now the first grade can vary depending on what it is your sanding and the condition of the item and if its resonably smooth or realy ruff,ie if its reasonably smooth with out much grain you mite use say 320# or if its realy realy corse and grainly you mite start with say 60# it all depends on what it is your polishing and what sort of overall look you want, so you got your starting gritt,just for agument sake I'm going to use 80# on this alternator to start with, 80# is corse enough to cut down thru the molding marks and ridges left from when it was produced in the factory, you can leave these but if you want a realy good over all look its best to knock them back the same as the rest and get it realy smooth, from there,you just work your way thru the grades ,if you want to do it unbelieveable ,then you would do every grade, if you want a quick job you can skip 2 grades in between , when you sand with each grade of paper you want to be realy consistant, and even,by this i mean ,say you start with 80 # then move on to 120# ,you would do the same amount of sanding with the 120 that you did with the 80,already can see this is a very slow process doing it this way, but ive done it a few times on various things and it realy does work well, you want to get out all the sanding marks of the 80 with the 120 before you move on to the next gritt, that part is very important if you want it to look like chrome,then from there move to the next grit,lets say 180# same again here, sand the whole thing exactly the same if not more than you did with the 120 gritt,this way your always moving up the grades and removing all the previous grades scratches, make sence???????? ok will I'm not the best at explaining things so i let the pics show what i mean,, so here ive striped apart the alt,got all the parts out and I'm left with 2 shells ,thats the parts I'm going to polish,the front housing and the rear housing , so starting with 80# dry sand paper on a air sander ,i hit the hole thing the best that i could, (keeping in mind the shape and little gaps on this alt ,most likely wont turn out as good as say a 4k alt that has very solid sides and not so many holes and fiddley bits )) non the less, sanded the hole thing with 80 and then went over the hole thing by hand with 80 again to get the hard areas, you can use things like a drill bit with sand paper rolled around it or a nail or things like that to slide into holes , and hard to reach areas, if your pimp then you may have several dremel fittings with the appropriate grades of paper to help with these hard areas, the key being to complete the 80 before moving on to the next grade and not being a slack ass, thats the hard bit :no:

going to be jumping around a little bit with this hole section , thought id do a little bit of a guide on polishing stuff, most of you probably know how to polish and its not that hard realy if you have a fair bit of time on your hands ,you can do a very good job, in my case time is limited,and polishing stuff can take up a great deal, if i was building a show car then by all means would definatley spend at least an extra month or 2 on extra detailing ,but I'm building this as a daily to be driven car,so no need to get to rediculous with it,that being said, with a little elbow grease can turn rusty parts,specialy anything alloy,into a shiney master piece, :y: you can do metal as well but its not as good as alloy, pretty much a poor mans chrome haha so heres the alternator that i just pulled of the engine,have a good look at it, sorry bout the quailty of pics my crap as camera phone is all i have at the moment, see all that yuky corosion and rusty crusty crud,disgusting haha actualy when i got it off some how it was full of dirt??? must have been learning over in the junk yard or something , don't worry i got rid of the dirt :P

fly wheel off........... and again the kick your face in rattle gun saves the day with the removal of the front pulley bolt, :dance: then going back thru the wierd ass way of hanging the motor to the stand ,shes back on ,minus engine mount brackets, and fly wheel. job well done

pm sent mate cheers

any ways, i after a little thought on the advice from you guys,decided that it was in my best interest to remove the fly wheel and see if it could be machined to save it, very surprised actualy how easy this was!!! i had read a few threads on other forums about crazy ways to lock the fly wheel to stop it turning while cranking on the bolts, so was a little nurvous about running into dramas with the bolts them selfs, but to my surprise the rattle gun kicked ass yet again! stoked, probably the easyest thing ive done on this build so far, :dance: these were the 8 bolts in question,holding the fly wheel on.read horror stories of the heads being rounded,due to how hard they were to remove...... lucky the rattle gun kicked some ass and is now my new fav tool :laff: had a real good look at the bolts, some looked perfectly fine ,a few of them looked almost a little warped? strange, i think if i can find a cheap enuff set i will replace them, but I'm not paying 80 dollars plus shipping for factory bolts thats just mental! this is what it looked like behind the fly wheel, not to bad realy , was expecting to see alot of gunky leaky oily stuff, but there was none,just some dryed up dirt and crusty bits.... gave it a bit of a quick scubb to get a better look, everything looks fine behind there. question should i change this seal any way to be on the safe side or better not to disturb it at all?????????????

yeah i know man dear as aye but if it was going to help drasticly id seriously consider them,that is, if there were to actualy fit with my wheels, i think the ruff size of the spring is 3inches in diameter, i have less than 5 mm between the strut and the wheel ,shes tight like a tiger in there

so xt130 ,ke70 and ke55 struts are all the same basicly what your saying??? hmmm well i know for a fact my 55 struts didnt have the hell camber issue i have now with the xt130 struts in there, strange buisness, shes a tuffy .... my biggest problem i have is camber, the brake up grade itself is ok , not huge i would like to go the hilux option,just for some beafy stopping power, i looked at getting camber kits and coil overs probably would just about set the camber right,how ever i run into another issue and that is my wheels are far to close to the xt130 struts to allow the fitment of a coil overset, thus can't use camber adjusters, could use spacers on the wheels , but there already sitting out further than i want and the fact i need this car engineered means no spacers allowed, i guess i could change the wheels ,then i could have the big brakes ,the xt130 struts,the coil overs , and the adjustable camber kits, but i like my wheels and it would be another large exspence i most definatley don't need right now, more research more time should be able to work something out!!!!!!!

ive been told the ae86 is a good option when it comes to the hole camber issue, the problem there is getting a set! very hard to come by and no doubt cost you if you find some, i think by the looks of the hole thing this is an issue that will continue to be debated till the end of time , i guess in the end its what works for your set up that matters,just wish there was some more genuine info to go off rather than try this try that, been there and it cost me a hell of alot of cash , just want a decent up grade in braking with out the camber issues , will continue to research i guess

aww yeah definatley worth a look,i realy want to keep my wheels and maybe the hilux brake upgrade, and maybe coil overs but all that wont work on the xt130 struts plus the camber is out :bash: ill give him a yell then ,cheers for the heads up

ra28???? jesus another one ,what size disks and brakes fit on those struts??? would the xt130 hubs fit with my brake combo or are the caliper mounting brackets different? very interested in any info on that ,also yeah i will neeed torque settings in the future ill keep that in mind mate, gona get the fly wheel machined,kind of a pain in the ass realy ,gettng it off and getting it sorted and then getting it back on with new bolts,etc i know its the right way to do it but christ on a bicycle how much more do i have to spend!!!!!!! i tell you all these little things are breaking balls, so ra28 celica ,betting there rare as hens teeth then as well

good guide Evan ,may have to give this ago on my daily,thats if it doesnt fall apart taking the alternator off haa :lolcry:

[email protected] real name ryan, up for chating ,to any one about anything ,specialy rollas and modding shizzz :rock:

wooa just found your thread and read right thru , congrats mate,excellent work!!, youve certainly come a fair way,from cutting out all that rust and repairs,well done, colour looks smicko,gota be stoked with that huh, its always good to read big threads like these,they always make me want to work more on my car lol, again well done :rock: :rock:

yeah its a tuff one mate theres a few options out there but not a hell of a lot of solid info to back up the theroy,people have used this and that and come up with there own combinations i guess, i use xt130 corona struts,think there a 1982 ish model, you can fit mx62 calipers to them struts with a few slight mods, the celica disks bolt straight on to the xt130 hubs, the struts arnt extremely hard to find ,just have to have a good hunt around the wreckers,the calipers on the other hand are getting a little rare these days from what ive seen, I'm still not 100 percent happy with the xt130 struts, they leave the camber not so good,i still have to figure out how to correct it , you can get coil overs and adjustable towers but then your looking serious money , by the time i stuff around looking at struts and buying vairous struts ,corolla ,corona,celica,calipers disks,bearings,brake pads ,hoses ,caliper kits etc etc etc i was up wards of 1500 bucks , so do your research before you jump in to a set plan , I'm think ing about going to the hilux caliper and purgoet disk mod at the moment ,but ill still be stuck with the camber issue,and i can't run coil overs becasue of the off set of my wheels,(to close to strut) so yeah good luck with your desicion , keep watching casue ill post up my findings and definite answers,

ahh yeah awesum,guess with some of the older cars you could use the wiring from the dome light ,rather than trying to hook up 4-5 seperate triggers, 70m not bad, had a quick look on ebay and found a few , 100 metres ruffly sounds like the average one,there was a garage door opener that could do 200m could possibly mod that to work as well i guess 100m: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Wireless-Portable-Doorbell-Door-Chime-2-Receivers-/310248665618?pt=AU_Home_Personal_Security&hash=item483c42f212 garage door:: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Wireless-RF-Electric-Remote-Control-Garage-Gate-Door-/400153372189?pt=AU_Home_Personal_Security&hash=item5d2affe61d

i think its an excellent idea,what sort of range do you think yourd get out of a wireless door bell thing? i like it,9 iron is good but i prefer my samurai sword :jason:

yeah i thought about it a bit and i guess ill take the fly wheel off and get it done ,just means alittle more time and a bit more money , so I'm looking at new bolts, a clutch kit and fly wheel resurfacing, mite take a bit to save up for all that, probably leave the fly wheel on there for the time being and get started on a few other smaller less costly things first,

which parts are those mate? you mean the mx62 calipers and celica disks?

haha yeah i know man just thought id could save a fair few dollars here is all, do you how much a new clutch kit and throw out bearing cost and how much would i except to get the fly wheel resurfaced? also is it safe to re use the fly wheel bolts????

sweet cheers for the link thats very clever :happy:

sick 9 bucks is all good ,ill see how we go, how do you get that bearing out?? it looks to be stuck in there some how? yeah mite have a go at polishing the manifold ,try and make it look better than it is now tho with out spending months on it, still heaps and heaps to do on the car ,