JDM55

fairly clean in the ports was quite happy about that, started cleaning this side,i used prepsol with a brush and soaked it all up , then used a red scotchy and sanded with that to get all of the oil dirt grease and crust off, here you can see the top part is clean ,just working my way down one side, this is where the small job turned into a huge job, i thought wouldnt take me long to clean and sand the block,,,,, i was wrong :lolcry: it took many many hours if scrubing and wiping , by the time i got to the front , i figued out to use the same scotchy magic wheel that was used on the polishing stage ,this made things go alot quicker but still took ages.... this is what one side looked like after the process:::: realy clean :dance: now the front......

yeah still researching that one mate apparently there are a c#$t so want to make sure i do it right,ill be screwed if i break an injector :bash:

some nice tasty oil dripping out apparently its a good idea to use a proper oil adaptor that bolts straight to the block rather than one of those universal round oil relocation things( apparently they restrict the oil flow a bit, so good move on removing this then next turned my attention to the exhaust side.... removed the water outlet .... then looking at the exhaust manifold, was a bit worryed about this because when i removed the turbo it self ,had a few dramas with the studs snaping on me :bash: :bash: wasnt looking forward to a repeat performance of that ,so sprayed the hell out of the bolts with crc and let them sit for a bit,then carefully undone the bolts ontop of the manifold holding the heat sheild in place, these were rusted to the s house,had to take it easy here, got them off there was only 4 of them they were stuft when i got them off tho, anyway done the same with the exhaust manifold, sprayed the hell out of the bolts , cracked them a little and sprayed again,so on and so on, most came out ok,but a couple of the studs came out completely,no biggy got it off with out snapping and destroying anything , :happy:

so i had a ruff plan to get the engine painted this week end, how ever as things usualy go a small job turns into a major mission, continuing with the stripping mission on the block.... removed the knock sensor and the water temp sensor housing ..... turn my attention to this oil filter block thing,ummed and ahhh about taking this off ,ended up deciding to take it off, probably get a remote oil filter thingo,and try get a better bigger oil filter, the sr20 ones are frigen so small as you will see.... that oil block thing was on there sooo tight!! has to use vice grips and allen keys at the same time and wack the @#$% out of it , just managed to get it off before the cap screws got rounded,feeeewwwwwww, heres the sr oil filter in compare to a hammer ..,.,., tinnyyy

exactly mate ,a lil bit here and there and the next thing you done a hole chunk ;-)

quicky removed the manifold tonight ,trying to get time at the moment,things are hectic,hopefully the weekend i can actualy make some sort of progress, it came off realy easy only 6 bolts and 2 nuts holding it on,this is what it looks like with out it on abit hard to see from my dodgey camera,grrr gona have to get a new one ,bit hard to get decent picture with my phone :bash: the intakes look very clean also, i little bit of blacky stains but hardly any at all , quite a big funky looking manifold, just have to figure out how to gett the injectors out of the thing

have no idea mate best to ask in the appropriate section ie general mechanical,cheers

haha find one and pull it apart and ill do it for you mate,just mite take a bit of time thats all lol

thanks mate! you should do your rebuilt one! probably come out better having not as many gaps and holes,they all ways make it a bit more trickey

woooo sick tits got my alternator back and looks rather good me be thinking,what you guys think??? first the old:::: then polished and painted, new bearings and bushes :rock:

yeah well its a full respray in and out door jams ,doors boot bonnet engine bay and exterior,and due to the colour being a bit on the see thru side need extra coats to cover,also i wanted extra for when i crash it, so i don't end up with differnt colours all over it,i can't stand that,i see it every day at work, so yeah thats why the excess in paint ,and it was free so what the hell :dancetall:

haha yeah I'm happy with it ,i have 18 litres of it mixed up ready to spray (also perks of the job):dance: ,should do my hard work some justice i think

so can't realy do anything else on the alternator till the parts are dry, going to send them all off to an auto elec to put new bearings and new bushes in it and get it running like new again, also they can assemble it for me,so till then, back to the engine,didnt get much time tonight to get alot done , work is chaos at the moment,but started a few small things... i managed to remove the front pulley,by using a 3 pronged puller, and heres the front pulley, abit rusty and crusty,but ill soon sort that out, again to my surprise behind the pulley where you couldnt see what was going on, was actualy very clean,no sign of leaks from the front seal, pretty much my idea here is to take off most of what i can get off and clean it , paint it ,recondition it ,what ever, just give everything a general tidy up, also I'm learning alot about the engine as i go so thats always a good thing too, so next thing i looked at was the plenum chamber thing,is that how you spell it?probably noticed already my a1 spelling hahaha , it was a little fiddley to get off and ended up having to remove the heater hosing and pipe work behind it to allow it to come free,dam japs and there small hands, have no idea how they get to some of those hose clamps if it starts leaking , and here it is off finally after working out how to navigate it off the engine,some thing i noticed straight away was how clean it was inside,was realy expecting to see alot of oily crap,as ive seen in other engines on the net, but strange enough it was very clean just a few little bits if oil ,

good spotting there mate ,yeah its a recent holden clolour,called voodoo,but ive thrown in a few extra spices to the mix :P

yeah i did evan, 4 coats of base coat, with 2 coats ppg deltron 2 pak clear, sure does looks nice and bright ,which is how i like my colours :lol:

nice! never new that one , would you need to calibrate the speedo at all with that set up? i got an rb20 gearbox not sr but i think the cable input thing are the same ,

if this happened ,would there be a freight option in there? ie buyers from other states hunting the very rare parts? i know in melbourne theres becoming a shortage of the oldies.... if not i still say do it I'm sure alot of the boys would benefit from something like this, how big is the back yard????

depends what the sr is put in ............. :huh:

pretty much decided on my colour today was forced into it as i needed these alt parts painted, so here it is,or at least something very close to this .....

yes you do sort of ,well you can't use the corolla one its a cable driven speedo ,where as the 180sx had a digial/electric speedo, I'm using a 180sx dash cluster, hopefully i can figure out how to wire in the speedo too ,lol theres a lot of wires coning of that thing, may do a little write up on it a bit further down the track, i think most people just go for autometer gauges and that, i wanted more a factory look ,so going to try the 180 dash......

so hopefully all that burble was of some interest to someone ,and learnt alittle about polishing, by no means was i say ing that is the only way to do it ,there are many ways ,that is just the process i use,since i know it works well for what i want, looks heaps better than rusty coroded crust covered in dirt any way you think????????????????????? :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

now just a quick reminder of what i started with and the state of it, to help compare, after the detail polishing the main big areas were polished with the big wheel,then cleaned up , rinsed in hot water,gets rid of the polish still stuck in gaps,an old tooth brush is useful to dislodge stuborn polish too( just don't go using it on your teeth afterwards) :blinks: oh yes she was a sexy beast of a thing,lol and then final products of the work done:::

there the tools you realy need to make this work properly,not terribley exspensive, the little buffs cost me 18 dollars the mop buff cost me about 21 dollars and the cutters were free from work the dremel was about 65 off ebay and the hand drill about 50 or 60 in bunnings so if you intend to do a fair bit of this sort of thing ,then thats your ruff start costs i guess, any way back to the goods,sanding done and on with the fun part, best to wear goggles or some sort of eye protection when doing this as the cutters can fly every where!, rubber gloves are recomended to,things get a bit messy and alot of black sludge is produced, some overalls or some kind of suit to protect your clothing can help to if you don't want to get covered in sludgey stuff, but most importantly is the eye protecting,if you can't see then you can't apreciate the hard hours of sanding and see the gleaming master piece yourve created hahahah :dance: so back to the alt :: i use a little bit of water in a spray bottle to get the polish to spread a bit,also keeps the heat down on the area your polishing,as for the best way to do this, ive found a touch of water on first,add a bit of compound/polish of your choice( don't need very much at all) then start by spreading the compound around the area you want to polish, going from there you can turn up the speed on your dremel and start to get a bit of a shine hapening, once the area has a decent shine, you can add a tiny bit more compound ,and speed the dremel up further to get a final shine, this is realy where you see the hard sanding pay off,or on the other hand where you see how slack you were,lol these ones i was using the dremel and a small tiped buff pad from the pack shown earlyier, and just going up and down the slots and holes,and some of the hard areas first, doesnt look like it from the terrible pictures,of my awesum phone camera, but the shine is almost instant,when you get the machine going... can see a little better in this one the top right hand slots starting to get shiny virginey :rocknroll:

after the hole sanding process ,starting at 80# working all the way thru up to at least 1000# ive also found if you can stretch it to 1500# you can get a bit more shine out of it, when you get to that stage ,it will almost look polished as it is! ,but all that sanding is realy just the prep work for the actual polishing , that is done in 2 stages, first stage is the detail stage,polishing the very small holes ridges,bumps,tight to get places, second stage is the over all stage ,doing the large areas that are easy ,and giving the item an over all shine, you could do it by hand if you didint have the tools ,but at the very least you should try to use a electic hand drill,actualy my weapon of choice, my ryobi 750 watt electric drill works very well, for the detail work you could use the hand drill iff desperate but its large and harder to use when trying to get those small areas, best option is a dremel,or an air drill or die grinder type tool, you can get a cheap rip off of the dremel on ebay for a bout 50 bucks from memory ,usualy comes with a hole bunch of polishing wheels and buff pads, very handy ,or if you want to do alot of detail polishing then definatley need one of these kits:: also the main polishing on the drill can be done using a buffing pad or mop ,also can find these at ebay but there a little pricey there, best to go to bunnings warehouse,in the tool section they have buff mops for between 15- how ever much you want to spend, your also going to need some sort of polish,theres autosol ,and many metal polishes out there,personaly i think these are best for bringing the shine back up on an item that has been polished before,and may have lost its shine from sitting a while, best option here is some cutters or compounds of a corse nature, you want to cutt the surface to bring up the shine,same theroy as a cut and polish on your paint, so auto cutters /polish works surprisingly well here also, this is my fav for this job, 3m perfect cut 3 ,its a white paste that feels rather gritty but it works extremly well on freshly sanded alloy,or tho a little pricey to get in the store,general compounds and cutting polishes would work rather the same....

this is what i was meaning when i was talking about the scotch brite, cut it up into disks and attach a couple to a bolt and create a mop sort of thing to go on the drill,works realy well for tight areas,,,