JDM55

yeah i used 80 grit :)mite go over it again later with 60 or something, i guess if its starts slipping i know what it will be and deal with it then lol,cheap ,,,, my camera is very crapy ,are spigot bearings cheap? lol i was thinking bout painting it up a lil bit mite try change some of the mainfold gaskets and that, i have a new water pump the old one was totaly stuft

managed to get hold of an engine stand,so thought this be better than working on the ground, only thing was had to figure out how to get the engine on to it lol , put abit of cardboard over the fly wheel ,didnt want any more damage. managed to get the frame thing onto the engine ,took a while to sus how to set it up,because i kept the fly wheel on i couldnt just bolt the frame thing straight to the engine ,had to use thick washers to space it out slightly to clear the fly wheel , double checked and made sure the bolts were as far into the gear box mount holes as possible. I'm still a little confused on how the hell 4 bolts can carry the weight of the engine???????????????? but some how its holding the thing on there! :o so got the frame thing bolted down to engine then had to lift up the engine and slide it onto the stand , well that was the goal any way ,ended up a little trickyer than that. got it on the stand but a closer look shows what i had to do, had to rest the engine stand on the engine crain to get it close enough to slide the frame on,but then found when i lowered the wieght off the engine, i couldnt slide the engine stand off the crain :bash: , had to get a lttle scissor jack to lift it up and let me slide the crain out the way. hooray engine bolted to the stand and firmly on the ground finally! :dance:

so i guess that means i have to buy a new one :bash: also the fly wheel wasnt the best either :bash: realy didnt want to take this off if i could get away with it ,a new fly wheel and new clutch be a bit costly,plus ive read when changing the fly wheel its best to use new flywheel bolts, found a set but they cost like 80 dollars!!! for some bolts! :o so had to have a go at least to see if i could salvage it, started scrubbing and cleaning with prepsol and a brush ,alot of the grimeys came off, but a bit of surface rust still there, and a few not so nice places where the clutch plate had slightly dug in I'm guessing, after a realy hard scrubing most of the stuff was gone , used a scotch brite to help scrape off some of the surface rust and clean away the nastys,and was left with this::: not too bad but still a little marked up , being that i realy don't want to have to pay for a new fly wheel or get this one off and then machined and then put back on, i went the cheap option, :lolcry: sand paper ,haha dodgey maybe??? probably, not sure but it seemed to help alot, i used 80 gritt on a sander,and managed to get alot of it smoothed off alot better, still not one hundred percent but a hell of alot better than when i pulled it off,not sure if its ok to leave it like this but for the moment i think I'm going to .

so basicly i masked up the parts i didnt realy want water getting into ,and sprayed the hole engine with degresser,and let it sit for about 5 minutes then sprayed it again ,and waited another 10 minutes, then used a pressure washer to blast away the greasy grim, if your a cheap skate or can't aford degresser you can use oven cleaner ,it works pretty good :happy: so there got it all cleaned up looks a little better already , after the clean up i had a better look at the clutch,it didnt look to healthy :| not realy an expence that i wanted to have ,was hoping that it would be reasonable enough to get me going at least, needed to get a better look at the condition of it so undone the bolts holding on the pressure plate, took me a minute to figure how to do that as when i put the ratchet on the bolt the fly wheel wanted to keep going round ,i ended up using the rattle gun to get the bolts off ,they came off pretty easy with that. these clutchs are fairly large and heavy,the clutch plate thing was pretty worn out ,hadnt been changed in a long time by the looks may have even been the original item??? and the pressure plate prongs were pretty worn out ,none the less its cactus :n:

ok so well this is interesting ,a new layout ???? looks good , any way i thought what id do next on my build is i have the engine out for the 10th time so far, and i thought id have a go at give it a service and a tidy up etc , since i havent realy seen a whole lot of postings on this sort of thing,I'm going to document a few things with it, also will help when i need to go back over a few things later on, for those people who already know all about engines and how to do all the following sort of things, i apologize this next part probably be a bit boring ,but for those who arnt to sure ,there may be a few things you find of interest ;-) as I'm learning this engine stuff ,specialy turbo related, as i go ,i hope it all goes well, if I'm doing something wrong I'm sure someone can point out what i should be doing, the other thing is ive gone way way over my budget,if you remember way back at the start, i said budget was pretty much I'm broke lol more so now,this is a huge task ive been taken on maybe bitten off alittle more than i could chew,and afford, but I'm guessing I'm ruffly at least half way and if at all possible i want to keep going. bla bla so heres the motor out of the car yet again,i havnt cleaned it or anything since i got it so that was the first task.

you should spend what you can afford, 500 ish would probably get you a decent mig,get one with gas or hire a gas bottle to get you going, wont take long if you play around with the settings .

;) haha well your doing an awesum job,can't wait to see more,

thanks very much there mate,yes apart from the work its been a bit of a mission,alot of ups and downs!I'm trying to hang in there,money is the real hassle,seems to swollow every coin ,but yeah get yourself a mig!! i could barely weld when i started this,but now my skills have improved 10 fold, thanks for reading and the kudos :D

nices pics dude, its mad how they have swimming pools and tennis courts on there roof tops! :D

depends what your engineer is like, you know they make up there own rules these days, my boss has a 800 hp big block in a charger solid mounted fully engineered in victoria of all places,

thats pimping ,love the dishhhhhhhhh

yeah 10mm if you have rubber mounts ,solid mounts alot less, ive got 10 mm every where but about 13 or so from sump to crossmember,

dam you!!!! hahha jokes, good stuff man that dash is looking great ,think we are working on the same stuff at the moment , stuffing around with wires is fun isnt it :jamie: , keep it up mate

sounds good to me mate :jamie:

hi there mate,sounds like your serious about an upgrade,which is good to see for once,can't speak for the other conversions you mentioned but on the sr20 subject, 4000 dollars isnt quite enough for that conversion, try times that by 3 or 4 and you will be closer to the budget,I'm doing the sr20 conversion so know all about it,definatley get in contact with an engineer first before you go ahead chopping your car up to fit,said engine,will save many head aches and re working done the track,id go the 4 age for a closer to your budget range,anything with turbo your talking big dollars ,good luck with it

not sure on after market mounts for this set up, but myself and many others on this site have made there own mounts,its not to hard once you have the engine in a decent position, have a search thru the forum theres a fair bit of info in peoples project logs, but before you go jumping in may i sudgest doing some serious research in to the conversion, its not just as easy as slaping in a new motor and away you go,theres many things to consider, some of them being do you have the funds to complete this,the skills? theres many things that will need upgrading, body strengthing being one if you want it legal,suspention upgrades brake upgrades,fuel system upgrades,new exhaust,bigger brakes,new wiring etc etc etc etc,pretty much your putting nissan gear into a rolla,not trying to burst your bubble but being armed with knowledge will most definaley help, i know because I'm in the middle of it and ive been going hard at it for over 12 months now,have a search ,ask questions,gather alot of pics will all help with this conversion, good luck with it if you go ahead.......

thanks guys, yeah I'm much happier with the new mounts ,look way better, and some how managed to get a bit more clearances,always good,and always amazing what a lil paint can do to old rusty parts haha,pretty much starting at the back with the fuel system working to the engine ,then going to be going to the back again with an exhaust system, all very slow time consuming stuff but stating to see some progress i guess, come along way from last year when i pulled it off the road...

you should be ok if the guy is any good, i work with panel beaters and do a bit my self its not that hard,, probably be looking at doing this my self at some stage,good luck with it keep the pics coming

have just purchased an sr20 and auto for this beast, some will be happy i have gone with the sr, while other's won't be. but it'll do what i want at a decent cost :( congrats on the choice maybe you will finish be fore i do ,be interested hear your plans for the motor

dish and stretch good work should look good after a bit of beating

also started a bit of wiring ,I'm sure any one who has done there own wiring knows how much of a time consuming thing this is ,susing out everything and testing wires etc etc , any way this is a relay board i made up for the fuel pump in the tank, got it fitted and tidyed up

next bit of custom was the fuel sender itself,casue I'm using a after market fuel guage i can't use the ke30 sender(the ohms are wrong) so any way i got a rci 7060b fuel sender ,they use these things in fuel cells, but apon trying to fit it to the tank i found 3 problems, first the arm on the sender was all wrong for the tank and 2nd the sender it self wouldnt realy locate in a resonable place( it slided around abit when trying to clamp it down) 3rd there were lots of hole in the sender disk! :D :? :bash: after a bit of thought, i figured to cross breed the 2 senders, using the new senders guts and the ke30s mounting disk thingo, this way i get rid of the holes in the disk,and the sender will fit as per factory..... so chop chop................ a bit of modding to the disk and got the sender fitting up to it fine,and then made up a arm to suit the tank..... and fitted as per factory :(

so started looking at the fuel system , hoping i can do this with out having to pay some one,its a bit of a big job and first time ive stuff around with lines and hoses and stuff so fingers crossed can make it work some how, so basicly done a few searchs and found a guide in the faq for an intank pump set up,which is the way I'm going,, intank pump surge tank filter fuel pump check valve fuel pressure guage efi filter returns thats the general idea i have so far,pretty much just connect the dots ,with a few of the dots being a prick lol so using the guide and a bit of advice from a few people ,started my intank set up,first problem i came across was the 55 has the fuel sender and pick up tubes all in one piece,this makes for very fiddley stuff geting a pump and wiring and all that into the one piece, so ive done away with the 55 fuel tank and got a ke30 tank ,that gave me the option of having the fuel sender seperate to the pump set up,this helps alot and as i found out it was still tight , first thing i did was got some bundy tube, i ended up with 3/8ths, i had some 5/16 that i was going to use but found after a little research that the dash 6 line/fittings that i was going to use was a little harder to fit up to the 5/16s bundy so opted for the 3/:( also hoping that the 3/8ths size (close to 10 mm ) will give the fuel sysems a good flow and hopefully support any future upgrades ,ie turbo ,injectors bla bla, so sust the size of the tube needed, bent some into 90 degree angles, worked out how long i wanted each piece, got some tube sleeves and tube nuts and slide them on and had the end of the tubes flared, now I'm not very confident at all about this connection , people have told me it will work fine ,dunno just seems a little dodgey to me, i put the pipes in a bucket of water and blasted 50 psi thru them to see if i could see any air bubbles coming out around the connections, but i couldnt ,so guess have to wait and see if they are going to leak or not,, any one done these tube nut/ flare set up before??????????? so with the pipes in place and the connections fitted up moved on to fitting up the wiring terminal and the pump, i used a vl turbo pre pump ,its quite small but just fitts in the hole of the tank,so again fingers crossed to see if its going to be strong enuff to do the job....... and heres the finished part, ke55 petrol tank part with 3/:D bundy tubes and -6 speed flow connections,holden vn wiring terminal and wiring,and a holden vl turbo fuel pump and fitted to the 30 tank

well been a bit sick the last few weeks,so havnt got much done but back into it now ,and away we go, thought id deal to this hole in the floor ,and tidy it up a bit , so made abit of a cover up from sheet steel,,,,, covered it with a bit of sound proofing ....... got it all screwed down..... and gave the gear stick abit of paint and cleaned up the boot rubber ,and it looks like this

thanks guys ,yeah pretty much gona cover my hole back,alot if detail going into it,just need to get some more cash so can get some more done ,spent heaps on this already,ill try find a better picture, cheers