JDM55

depends what your engineer is like, you know they make up there own rules these days, my boss has a 800 hp big block in a charger solid mounted fully engineered in victoria of all places,

thats pimping ,love the dishhhhhhhhh

yeah 10mm if you have rubber mounts ,solid mounts alot less, ive got 10 mm every where but about 13 or so from sump to crossmember,

dam you!!!! hahha jokes, good stuff man that dash is looking great ,think we are working on the same stuff at the moment , stuffing around with wires is fun isnt it :jamie: , keep it up mate

sounds good to me mate :jamie:

hi there mate,sounds like your serious about an upgrade,which is good to see for once,can't speak for the other conversions you mentioned but on the sr20 subject, 4000 dollars isnt quite enough for that conversion, try times that by 3 or 4 and you will be closer to the budget,I'm doing the sr20 conversion so know all about it,definatley get in contact with an engineer first before you go ahead chopping your car up to fit,said engine,will save many head aches and re working done the track,id go the 4 age for a closer to your budget range,anything with turbo your talking big dollars ,good luck with it

not sure on after market mounts for this set up, but myself and many others on this site have made there own mounts,its not to hard once you have the engine in a decent position, have a search thru the forum theres a fair bit of info in peoples project logs, but before you go jumping in may i sudgest doing some serious research in to the conversion, its not just as easy as slaping in a new motor and away you go,theres many things to consider, some of them being do you have the funds to complete this,the skills? theres many things that will need upgrading, body strengthing being one if you want it legal,suspention upgrades brake upgrades,fuel system upgrades,new exhaust,bigger brakes,new wiring etc etc etc etc,pretty much your putting nissan gear into a rolla,not trying to burst your bubble but being armed with knowledge will most definaley help, i know because I'm in the middle of it and ive been going hard at it for over 12 months now,have a search ,ask questions,gather alot of pics will all help with this conversion, good luck with it if you go ahead.......

thanks guys, yeah I'm much happier with the new mounts ,look way better, and some how managed to get a bit more clearances,always good,and always amazing what a lil paint can do to old rusty parts haha,pretty much starting at the back with the fuel system working to the engine ,then going to be going to the back again with an exhaust system, all very slow time consuming stuff but stating to see some progress i guess, come along way from last year when i pulled it off the road...

you should be ok if the guy is any good, i work with panel beaters and do a bit my self its not that hard,, probably be looking at doing this my self at some stage,good luck with it keep the pics coming

have just purchased an sr20 and auto for this beast, some will be happy i have gone with the sr, while other's won't be. but it'll do what i want at a decent cost :( congrats on the choice maybe you will finish be fore i do ,be interested hear your plans for the motor

dish and stretch good work should look good after a bit of beating

also started a bit of wiring ,I'm sure any one who has done there own wiring knows how much of a time consuming thing this is ,susing out everything and testing wires etc etc , any way this is a relay board i made up for the fuel pump in the tank, got it fitted and tidyed up

next bit of custom was the fuel sender itself,casue I'm using a after market fuel guage i can't use the ke30 sender(the ohms are wrong) so any way i got a rci 7060b fuel sender ,they use these things in fuel cells, but apon trying to fit it to the tank i found 3 problems, first the arm on the sender was all wrong for the tank and 2nd the sender it self wouldnt realy locate in a resonable place( it slided around abit when trying to clamp it down) 3rd there were lots of hole in the sender disk! :D :? :bash: after a bit of thought, i figured to cross breed the 2 senders, using the new senders guts and the ke30s mounting disk thingo, this way i get rid of the holes in the disk,and the sender will fit as per factory..... so chop chop................ a bit of modding to the disk and got the sender fitting up to it fine,and then made up a arm to suit the tank..... and fitted as per factory :(

so started looking at the fuel system , hoping i can do this with out having to pay some one,its a bit of a big job and first time ive stuff around with lines and hoses and stuff so fingers crossed can make it work some how, so basicly done a few searchs and found a guide in the faq for an intank pump set up,which is the way I'm going,, intank pump surge tank filter fuel pump check valve fuel pressure guage efi filter returns thats the general idea i have so far,pretty much just connect the dots ,with a few of the dots being a prick lol so using the guide and a bit of advice from a few people ,started my intank set up,first problem i came across was the 55 has the fuel sender and pick up tubes all in one piece,this makes for very fiddley stuff geting a pump and wiring and all that into the one piece, so ive done away with the 55 fuel tank and got a ke30 tank ,that gave me the option of having the fuel sender seperate to the pump set up,this helps alot and as i found out it was still tight , first thing i did was got some bundy tube, i ended up with 3/8ths, i had some 5/16 that i was going to use but found after a little research that the dash 6 line/fittings that i was going to use was a little harder to fit up to the 5/16s bundy so opted for the 3/:( also hoping that the 3/8ths size (close to 10 mm ) will give the fuel sysems a good flow and hopefully support any future upgrades ,ie turbo ,injectors bla bla, so sust the size of the tube needed, bent some into 90 degree angles, worked out how long i wanted each piece, got some tube sleeves and tube nuts and slide them on and had the end of the tubes flared, now I'm not very confident at all about this connection , people have told me it will work fine ,dunno just seems a little dodgey to me, i put the pipes in a bucket of water and blasted 50 psi thru them to see if i could see any air bubbles coming out around the connections, but i couldnt ,so guess have to wait and see if they are going to leak or not,, any one done these tube nut/ flare set up before??????????? so with the pipes in place and the connections fitted up moved on to fitting up the wiring terminal and the pump, i used a vl turbo pre pump ,its quite small but just fitts in the hole of the tank,so again fingers crossed to see if its going to be strong enuff to do the job....... and heres the finished part, ke55 petrol tank part with 3/:D bundy tubes and -6 speed flow connections,holden vn wiring terminal and wiring,and a holden vl turbo fuel pump and fitted to the 30 tank

well been a bit sick the last few weeks,so havnt got much done but back into it now ,and away we go, thought id deal to this hole in the floor ,and tidy it up a bit , so made abit of a cover up from sheet steel,,,,, covered it with a bit of sound proofing ....... got it all screwed down..... and gave the gear stick abit of paint and cleaned up the boot rubber ,and it looks like this

thanks guys ,yeah pretty much gona cover my hole back,alot if detail going into it,just need to get some more cash so can get some more done ,spent heaps on this already,ill try find a better picture, cheers

holy crap 500 horsepower???? thats serious in a light ass car like a rolla hahaha well done must be a lethal weapon to drive????

id be keen ,the choosen route looks like a decent run for sure, pity my car aint anywhere near ready lol,maybe next time

heres myne ,been getting bits done here and there still lots to go but taking shape...

so today i managed to get my engine mounts redone,after looking at my old mounts i kinda realised that they were ruff as guts hahaha ,took allday to redo these things ,had to keep the engine in the same position it was in as it was exactly where it needed to be, got another xmember,chopped off the old mounts and the base they were sitting on, welded a 3mm plate over the old base area, made up some engine mounts out of 3mm plate,bit better than the old corolla mounts that i used before, then had to figure out the angles needed for the mounts,then cut the mounts to suit, tack welded them on, pulled out the xmember and welded them properly with a few extra seam welds here and there, sanding the xmember and painted it , reassembled ,job done ;-) old mounts off steel plate on designin mounts cut out bend to shape angles cut and tacked in welding welding fresh back in wola

You got a great little car there to start learning on! looks to be in overrated condish, good luck with the plans and enjoy learning all about cars,welcom to rolla club :lolcry:

no worrys

ahhhh nice could be good news then ,go the 55 ;-)

yes the ke30 are differnt ke35 will bolt up to ke55 as i have done the mod your looking at doing

you need a ke35 brake booster to do that mod with the pajero master,the ke35 has the correct bolting pattern for the pajero master.... also there is an adjustment on the steering box that can help a little .....