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whats what I was thinking with AVCR coz VVTL-i works in a similar way with V-TEC where power kicks in at high rev. any recommendation for places to go with this kind of stuff? since I wouldn't be able to do it myself and thinking of going to Top Racing for all the works with Uncle Lee.

 

I also just found out to have a full TRD conversion just for the parts alone excluding shipping, installation, labor would cost me $5,800ish... that kind of number looks like just forget it to me -.-;;

 

probably 50%-60% conversion would be more feasable and I also would forget about supercharging it since $3495 in US$ for the SC main assembly and installation kit. non-discounted price would cost $4,495~ish which is a big NO!-NO! for just a single upgrade.

 

Turbo would be the way to go I guess and will see what I can do in the mean time.

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i guess you just have to ask yourself how much money you want to spend on that car and how often you like to thrash around with other people in the car. R32 GTRs are getting so cheap now and i'm sure they would still whoop a supercharged corolla.

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whats what I was thinking with AVCR coz VVTL-i works in a similar way with V-TEC where power kicks in at high rev. any recommendation for places to go with this kind of stuff? since I wouldn't be able to do it myself and thinking of going to Top Racing for all the works with Uncle Lee.

 

An AVCR wont do it. A VAFC will.

 

AVCR = boost controller

SAFC = piggy back fuel

VAFC = piggy back fuel with VTEC control

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i guess you just have to ask yourself how much money you want to spend on that car and how often you like to thrash around with other people in the car. R32 GTRs are getting so cheap now and i'm sure they would still whoop a supercharged corolla.
well there are certain criteria that I look for in this case. I could get a good grade 4.5 R32 GTR for under $20k from some connection and it would be incomparable to a $22k Corolla Sportivo 2ZZ-GE but what I'm looking for now isn't anything like just for performance, but more to a practical car with a bit of power in it and thankfully I could afford a Corolla Sportivo the one I dreamed of few years back. its the same as my previous Fairlady 300ZX VG30DETT for $13k with full body kit and some mods could trash most V8 and mostly R32-R33 GTS/-T but isn't really what I'm looking for after some careful thought.

 

in regards of trashing the car, I wouldn't want to trash my car a lot and just driving for fun within appropriate way of driving it. coz I have been pulled over along with my friend and accused of racing just because my 300ZX's twin 3" exhaust was really loud and would draw attention from miles away and driving side by side with R33 automatically seems like racing or intention to race and accused of something that I did not commit which is reckless driving under hoon law. but anyway the trial still postponed long way in coming March and surely I will win the case coz its just stupid.

 

I wouldn't want to spend too much money on car in which eventually depreciate with wear&tear but just doing something for self interest. I just started to get into these things and will not do anything big untill I fully understand the importance of each steps and process.

 

An AVCR wont do it. A VAFC will.

 

so with the VAFC stand alone, meaning independent and could be fitted regardless? or is there some preliminary requirement for it to work properly?

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  • 1 month later...

G'Day

 

Just a few ideas for you to think off.

 

The ADM Delivered Toyota Corolla Sportivo is a southafrican built and assembled Car, from the Durban Toyota Plant.

 

All the Sportieve Corollas are Southafrican. The Normal 1ZZ corollas are (not exact figures, but approx) - well... lets say, if at work (I work at Toyota) 50 corollas come in, maybe 4 or 5 will be sportieveos, 15 would be southafrican 1zz built, and the remanding would be Japanese.

 

Basically, they are a pretty poorly built and assembled vehicle. (the south african ones) There are a few differences between the Jap models and SA models. Eg. Different panels, Battery's, Hydraulic assemblies, interior differences down to a water washer bottle thats different. I guess they figured it was cheaper to make there own in SA rather than get them from Jap. *meh*

 

Anyway, back to where this is leading - Personally, if i had the $$ , and you obviously have some $$ to play with - and wanted to have the 2ZZ corolla - I would get one thats got as Little Kms as possible, and is still in warranty. Because, your going to want to have warranty with this car. Seriously.

 

To make it go harder, as such, First thing i would do, is do some research onto what different gearboxes you can get. Simply because the ratios on the sportievo's box's are horrible. You get up into power band, change gear, off cam again. and they are such loooong ratios. I don't think its the final drive which is the real problem. But thats just my experience from driving them.

 

2ndly, this clashes with my first recommendation of warranty. Id be pulling the Cyl head off, and sending it to a machine shop. Get the thing ported and flow'd properly. Get the head shaved. Get the valve angles attended to. Etc. While you are at it, see if you can get a different camshaft setup. One that has the Lift kicking in earlier, and a more aggressive profile for the 2nd part of the cam (the high RPM setup).

 

3rly, Now, as the computer may be having a fit from what you have done to it, id be pissing that standard computer of anyway. Aftermarket for the win.

 

Remember, if its been done to a new celica, your corolla can have the same, provided physical size constraints are not a.. problem ;)

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  • 5 months later...
Basically, they are a pretty poorly built and assembled vehicle. (the south african ones) There are a few differences between the Jap models and SA models. Eg. Different panels, Battery's, Hydraulic assemblies, interior differences down to a water washer bottle thats different. I guess they figured it was cheaper to make there own in SA rather than get them from Jap. *meh*

 

Anyway, back to where this is leading - Personally, if i had the $$ , and you obviously have some $$ to play with - and wanted to have the 2ZZ corolla - I would get one thats got as Little Kms as possible, and is still in warranty. Because, your going to want to have warranty with this car. Seriously.

 

To make it go harder, as such, First thing i would do, is do some research onto what different gearboxes you can get. Simply because the ratios on the sportievo's box's are horrible. You get up into power band, change gear, off cam again. and they are such loooong ratios. I don't think its the final drive which is the real problem. But thats just my experience from driving them.

 

2ndly, this clashes with my first recommendation of warranty. Id be pulling the Cyl head off, and sending it to a machine shop. Get the thing ported and flow'd properly. Get the head shaved. Get the valve angles attended to. Etc. While you are at it, see if you can get a different camshaft setup. One that has the Lift kicking in earlier, and a more aggressive profile for the 2nd part of the cam (the high RPM setup).

 

The S/A builds are fine. I've had no major issues.

 

Warranty wise I've only needed the gear selector cables looked at, and that's it. Nothing else. Speaking of which Toyota are absolutely useless and they are never touching my car again.

 

The gearboxes are fine. I can land in the hi-cam range everytime. Practice makes perfect.

 

Finally, the head already has most of this done to it. Personally it would be a waste doing something like that anyway for smallish gains. The 2zz-ge is difficult to improve internally from the factory in terms of N/A work. That's why it's 141kw at the fly.

Edited by Lord Nelson Derpentstein
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