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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

All 4age heads have the same size exhaust port . For the waste gate run a t piece from a vacuum line .

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

why did you buy the silvertop to begin with? I'm pretty sure the block is the same as all the 7 rib blocks. Why not go 20 valve turbo for something different? Most engines with forced induction will have slightly lower compression than an NA motor.

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

silvertop is the early 20 valve and has quad throttle bodies. are you sure you don't have a small port ae92 motor?

 

wouldn't you want to run an after market computer if you plan on sticking a turbo on there?

Edited December 29, 200619 yr by JC807

As long as you haven't bought a rwd 20v turbo manifold youll be fine. ALl 16v's are the same, but a bolt si different on 20v heads :y:

SIlvertop 20v's are fine if bosot is 7-9psi or so. Low bosot and they run fine, very similar rods to gze. If you want to run alot of boost get a gze bottom end.

Unless you want to run high boost, you don't really *need* to decompress the engine.

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

wouldn't you want to run an after market computer if you plan on sticking a turbo on there?

 

It is a 4age 16 valve with silver rocker covers and 16 valve in red writing. Won't the standard computer work? This won't be a dragster, just something with a reasonable bit of go. Thanks for the help.

 

You will need either a remap (if the ecu can take it) or go aftermarket. Fuel and ignition maps are completely different to NA motors.

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

On another forum I'm on a guy is actually running (was running) a standard smallport ECU and has replaced the map sensor with a GZE 1.

 

I found a post of his:

 

I ran a nissan t02 turbo on my 7agte small port with all stock internals and the turbo spooled up really low (1500rpm) but started to run out of puff at about 6000rpm which isnt so bad.i also was running a smallport ecu with a 4agze map sensor,the only prob with using the computer set up is that it fuels up a bit at idle,but its not to bad if you you a rising rate fuel reg,i have now gone back to a 4age with bigger turbo and more boost 13psi,but still on standard smallport internals and are now using a 4efte starlet ecu and loom.

Edited December 30, 200619 yr by Trev

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

That exhaust housing looks like it came off a bloody truck....good luck spooling that thing :no2: Specs don't tell me a whole lot.

 

Edit:

 

If its this one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/T3-T4-T04B-V-Band-T...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Its too big...by far. You'd want a turbine A/R of 0.64 this things a whopping 1.15. Id love to see it try and make even a reliable 20psi on those hydromatic bearings. :yes:

 

Perfect for any 4-6 cylinder.

Mitsubishi Eclipse, Honda Civic, Prelude, Integra, Ford 2.3L Turbo Etc.

 

The guys a f*&king liar. Get your money back.

 

Theres alot of cheap nasty turbos going around particularly on ebay. I personally will never ever ever buy a performance part off ebay, new or second hand. A good brand new turbo should cost over $1000. Bigger ones up around $2000+. Second hand ones are sometimes a few hundred dollars depending on how desirable they are.

 

I would suggest you find a T25 off a CA18DET. They're better suited to the engine size, cheap, plentiful and plenty of upgrade options right up into the 500hp range. If you want something brand new and bigish for the engine. Go for a GT2560R (GT28R) with a 0.64 exhaust housing. Even that will be laggy (up around 4000rpm). If you go with a T25 you can always upgrade to the GT28R later (its essentially bolt on).

 

If you ever need to ask someone about what you're buying I'm always (usually :y:) happy to answer questions.

Id go for the T28 BB of an S15, they are great turbos and cheap too if you can find a low klm one that hasnt taken a thrashing.

are you changing pistons?