Dan Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Thats insane.. Probably be easier to throw around than a pocket bike too, I hate not being able to lean in far enough on 'em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Jib: It's hard to say how long it took, I planned out the driveline a year ago and bought my 2 bikes then. I also chopped up one of the frames and welded in a cro-mo pipe in the rear fork section. But the progress in the pics is about 6 working days worth. For me this is unusually quick, I am usually a very slow working but I did heaps of progress every day. I have many more days yet worth of work in it yet. Dan: yes I have always prefered a scooter over a pocketbike, no vibrations going into strange places, good control, excellent over bumps, I can bunny hop!!, easy to bail from, you don't look weird using one (well maybe a little less!) and easier to work on. I used my pocketbikes and they were ok but I still thought they felt awkward to use and a big one; my frame won't suddenly rip in half with a small amount of load. I want to weigh it soon and see how it compared to a pocketbike also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 (edited) my scooter as it was: I adapted the fat boy power pipe, but purposefully made it 10mm too short to tune it. Edited February 8, 2007 by Sam_Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 (edited) The section of the pipe I never liked, I thought this would be bad for it so I wanted to replace it. So I started to make up a new expansion section. Lining it up. One end welded in and marking out where to cut. The nasty step in the old pipe that I thought wasn't helping. All welded up. Bolted on and painted. How it is now. Edited February 8, 2007 by Sam_Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Des Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Can you notice more top end speed woth that pipe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 unfortuntely I don't know because it throws the chain off at 50km/h or so. I did start to make a chain tensioner but looks like I will be doing a drastic change of plans, updates soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 looks like I am going to sell off all my old cag engine parts and not use them ever again, because I have this..... a F1 Balata rep 40cc engine thats rated at 7hp standard. I also got a rep 19mm Dell'orto carb (original 14mm), different pipe and 2 x tripple stage reeds. It should tottaly haul arse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 the engine mount was no good to me in that position so I wanted to see if I could reverse it so it faced down. I took the head off and while I was at it I took the bore off to see how it was made and why it made so much power. Heres with the head off and the piston at BDC: the ports are absolutley huge in this thing, the exhaust ports take up like 1/3 of the whole diameter and there are 4 transfer ports and 1 boost port. Heres another pic of the bore with the barrel removed: and of the V stack reed system, its very large, very close ot the piston and most suprisingly it has had some aditional hand porting beween the intake and the transfer ports. I have never seen such quality in a 2 stroke and it came out of China which is downright scary. and yes I did manage to reverse the head. I have designed most of the new frame and I will have to do some major chopping to make it fit. I hope to do it this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 nice work there mate, let's hope the chain stays on :jamie: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 (edited) thanks, well with my chain tensioner on it that I made up and with the stiff links in the chain taken care it should be ok, well I hope so anyway Edited February 16, 2007 by Sam_Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 If the chain doesn't work, how viable would a ribbed belt system be in place of a chain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 yeah people have thought about that before but the problem is the ratio, I right now have a 6 tooth front sprocket and a 68 at the rear, you just can't have that sort of gearing with a belt, besides you lose more power. I didnt believe it at first but i have seen the graph of losses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 Very interesting. Lets hope the chain tensioner does its job. Maybe you could even fabricate up a chain guide to keep it all in place as well :jamie: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 I managed to do a real good days work, which I was quite happy with seeing that day was meant of been 38 degrees. Heres what I started with, engine out, top support bracket bent up: With the top part chopped off, it wasnt easy doing this when it was so hard to line up and worked so well. I made up a U shape out of cro-mo steel and I wanted to max out my clearences. So I decided to keep grinding it down till it only just cleared the wheel, heres how it looked when it was the right height and dead level: New section tack welded in and looking good Engine roughly in place without thrid bearing sprocket support, notice the curved rear pipe that I used to clear the wheel and have the side supports lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 ends of the bars shortened and chopped vertical, new U suport welded in for the front engine mount (also Cro-Mo steel), chain in place for basic alinment checks and also some of the pipe ground down on both sides to lower the engine even further. Front engine mounts in but not welded so I can get the alingment right. I later used some spacers at the front to get the heights right. Front section welded on properly (so to speak),front mounts tack welded on and one of the two rear engine mounts welded in. Thats all I have done right now and I will need to grind more of the pipe away to clear the engine and then weld a plate in to cover the hole. The other rear mount needs to be made but that should be real easy now the alinment is all good (I think!!!) it looks like I will be temporarily be using the pipe in the stock position and mount the fuel tank off the side, I do plan on modifying it the same as my last pipe but I want it to just run first and then maybe experiment with pipe mods before reshaping it into an elaborate shape to suit the frame. I also plan to make my own stainless steel fuel tank, should look and work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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