Hello to everyone

 

Just a Quick Question about relocating the battery to the boot.....basically has anyone done it?

Just wondering how hard it was, headaches involved, materials required e.t.c

 

I tried doing a search in all forums and th FAQ but couldn't find anything, if there isn't a TECH article already on it i'd be more than happy to make one as i go, but before i start jst thougt i'd od a bit of research first.

Thanks

yeah i remember there already being a thread on this somewhere... apparently it isnt all that hard... sorry I'm not much more help

 

found the thread http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...Battery+In+Boot

Edited April 9, 200719 yr by smacko84

not very hard to do. a few points.

 

* use a dry cell battery or you will need to install some type of ventilation to atmosphere outside the car.

* a battery box from a boat shop will be cheaper than a car shop

* you can run the cables inside the cabin or outside

* you can run either two cables (+12v and earth) or just one cable(+12v)

* +12v goes to your starter motor

* if you use an isolator switch run the wire from the alternator to the line side of the switch (not the load side of the switch)

Sweet as thanks guys....

i'll give it a shot and we'll see what happens

 

if it all goes to plan i'll take some pics and put up a bit of a tech thread

Remember to run big arse cables as the voltage drop will make it a bitch to start if you don't. Use grommets to stop your cables from shorting out when you run them through body work and make sure you bolt your battery down securely.

Hey peoples , i am looking at getting this kit :Battery reloc. kit

just wondering if this is alot more expensive than getting parts individually for those who have done it allready , i've heard the cable is the expensive part

if you use an isolator switch run the wire from the alternator to the line side of the switch (not the load side of the switch)

 

I assume by "line side" you mean "battery side"? If so, why?

I believe it is so that if you remove the switch it kills the motor, otherwise the alternator will keep providing power to the load side of the switch and keep the motor running

 

i'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong. maybe i should try it and we'll find out for sure.

Edited April 13, 200719 yr by JC807

I believe it is so that if you remove the switch it kills the motor, otherwise the alternator will keep providing power to the load side of the switch and keep the motor running

 

This is somewhat correct, but the main reason is that the when the battery is isolated with the alternator running, it will still keep producing an output but have no load (such as battery) to accept the current its producing. It ends up burning the diodes inside the alternator, and it will not work again. ie, time to get new alternator otherwise

 

Dave

Interesting... I've got my alternator on the "engine side" of the switch, and if I turn the switch off when the car's running, it cuts out. But I do see where you're coming from. Oh well, maybe next time I build a car...

Yeh it can depend on different things, like the car and how much electronics you got on it etc etc... ie carby/fuel injection

'but as a safe rule i'd put it on 'battery side' of isolator

 

Similar thing can happen with alternator warning light circuit, where if there is no diode the alt will back feed through the ignition and can keep engine running wen u turn key off... hence why factory dashs have didoes built in.

 

Theres bit more pointless info... lol... sorry to temporarily hijack the thread

thanks for clearing it up! i wasn't exactly sure.

just remember, while running cables the length of your car, DO NOT connect it to the battery untill everything is all wired up and fused like a mofo.

 

cheers.

Coln72 said 'big ass cables'. Need to qualify that. Yes you will need big arse cables but what I think he meant is you will need high quality cables. Not the std crap that we all have. It's like when you fit a h/d stereo in your car. The wiring supplied is a far greater quality than the std radio crap. If in doubt see a auto electrician and get your wallet out. Running good leads is pricy. Is there someone here that can supply? Now if you want to get tricky at the same time fit twin batterys. U can have over 1000CCA for less weight than a single say 400CCA battery...........trikes