bruce Posted May 28, 2007 Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 I want to change my denso alternator in my KE30 to a bosch one. There's been a mention of it here, but I just want to make sure I know the proper wiring, before I take it out. Here's the bosch alternator with the internal regulator: The bosch has got two connections instead of the three. I was thinking the B+ terminal (the one below D+) connects to the positive terminal on the battery, while the D+ terminal connects to the ignition warning light wire? The colour code of the wires at the external regulator in my car are different to the electric diagrams in the gregory's manuals, so its little confusing. I've got a multimeter though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted May 28, 2007 Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 Correct, The B+ connects to the battery post is (12V) the D+ is dynamo (charge light) External regulated alternators usually have a field wire that goes to the regulator (Rub it against the terminal it connects to and you can see the field flash of the field collapsing as a blue flash). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted May 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 I could use the existing wire that was connected to the B+ terminal on the denso, to connect to the B+ terminal on the bosch. I think that wire is from the positive terminal of the battery. Were you ment to say D+ instead of D- for the charge light wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted May 28, 2007 Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 Yep sorry, Fixed my mistake.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted June 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Had a bit of a delay in getting it going; the bracket used with the denso alternator to tension the fan belt was too short, when using it for the bosch alternator :wink: Had to get the longer bracket. I just unconnected the external voltage regulator, and plugged the D+ connection to a wire (white with yellow stripe) in the voltage regulator plug. That was for the ignition light. Then the B+ connection to the positive terminal of the battery, which use to be the wire for the B connection on the denso alternator). Goes good now; the gauge lights are a bit brighter :no2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Had a bit of a delay in getting it going; the bracket used with the denso alternator to tension the fan belt was too short, when using it for the bosch alternator :wink: Had to get the longer bracket. I just unconnected the external voltage regulator, and plugged the D+ connection to a wire (white with yellow stripe) in the voltage regulator plug. That was for the ignition light. Then the B+ connection to the positive terminal of the battery, which use to be the wire for the B connection on the denso alternator). Goes good now; the gauge lights are a bit brighter :no2: Your charge light doesnt tend to glow at all? I did the same procedure as you, however i had mine rebuilt to 70amps. Ever since that, the charge light filament tends to glow a little especially when the heater is on. You seem very happy with the outcome anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted June 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 What rpm does the charge light come on? I've set my idle to 800rpm, but sometimes it goes down to 500rpm, still idles. But I think its inconsistent, probably because of the cold weather down in Hobart (was ok in the summer), and the carby needs to be freshen up. Last night though, looking at the tachometer at idle, it just went below 500rpm, on the verge of stalling, and the charge light came on. I guess it works. I turned the fan heater on full and the head lights on, and noticed the variation in the engine sound, at 800 rpm, but the charge light never came on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Hi, I wrote the first article you linked to and put the 80amp one onto my KE30. I had a Bosch one on there so my wires were all ready there. But did you up grade your ma feed from the alt and battery to the starter when you were in there? I put better thicker cable in and find starts easier as it handles more current so just an idea. But with the alt tension arm you will need the long one. Also with your charge light turn your key to on in the ignition and with out starting the motor the oil light and charge light should be on. If the charge light isn't on there is a fault some where. As don't think oh light not on so its got plenty of power. As my 80amp alt now light NEVER comes on. Yet with no motor going and key in the on position it glows so I now the light works. Also I got brighter head lights when I put my new alt one so :wink: Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balaiz Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 what car is the bosch alternator from? and the brackets sorry to revive dead thread lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy43 Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) The k engines came out with both bosch and nippon alternators. I think the 4k ones had a bigger pulley ? Edited February 8, 2014 by Andy43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balaiz Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 I'm installing another internal regulated alternator on my ke30 but it has a ig terminal which do i connect this to on the old loom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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