HIGH ROLLER Posted August 9, 2007 Author Report Posted August 9, 2007 look up odyssey battery hey jc, yeah iv seen theyr website...they have some great stuff... in the end it will be a choice between optima and odyssey... theyr both great batteries, it will just come down to price i guess... cheers guys.. MarkM Quote
HIGH ROLLER Posted August 11, 2007 Author Report Posted August 11, 2007 i got an odyssey. was about $300. thats a good price...i think odyssey are better value for money... i took some pics today, the car is looking mad, gave it a wash, wax... I'm thinking of sticking with the colour havanna gold...looks sick in the sun... Quote
HIGH ROLLER Posted August 11, 2007 Author Report Posted August 11, 2007 Here's a few of the pics i took today....the car came up great... ENJOY! Quote
Jono Posted August 11, 2007 Report Posted August 11, 2007 Looks like you could invest in some glass cleaner... :y: Quote
HIGH ROLLER Posted August 12, 2007 Author Report Posted August 12, 2007 Looks like you could invest in some glass cleaner... :wink: HAHA i used Windex, but it made it look worse...hahaha last time i take tips off "my big fat greek wedding"...hahah it looks sweet tho...thinking of finding a havanna gold metallic, with a pearl through it... thanks for the support JC, even if it is constructive criticism... KEEP ROLLIN! Quote
Jordan Posted August 13, 2007 Report Posted August 13, 2007 Unless you've already bought a GT3076R, don't they are very large on a 1.6L and even with a small turbine houseing will be rather laggy. It's do do with rotating mass. If oyu want I'll map what a 1.6L looks like on a GT30R compressor map. if you plan on making anywhere near 300RWkW's (400BHP at the wheels) you'll need to do some serious body modifications to an E20 chassie, including seam welding, cage, tub or SLR rear fenders to fit tyres wide enough, hilux diff, Stiffend rear leaves and dampers, hilux front brakes, a brake booster installed, along with a larger master cylinder, W58 or R154 box. The motor will need be rebuilt with late model GZE pistons, forged rods and a head worth >$2000 to hold on to that kind of power. And Ebay manifold will melt if you consistantly run 30Psi through it, thus you'll need to get a proper steam pipe one made. You'll need a Triple core radiator. My TA22 powerd by a CA18DET with a GTiR T28 made 150RWkW (200BHP at the wheels) on 10psi, and lit up 3rd in a straight line (ok it has 195/50R15's on 8" rims so there a little stretched.) The point is that in a car that weighs ~120kg more than a KE20, that kind of power is very potent and the TA22 has better suspension design. be realistic with what you want to do, a GT3071R wold be a better option and more streetable but still offer plenty of legs, but I'd personally recomend a GT2871R or GT2860RS. These turbos offer great response, good top end and most of all very useable power in a light car. Cheers Jordan P.S: there's a reason I don't want any more than 225RWkW's in my TA22, and that's becaseu any more is just a waste without taking the car to the next level. Quote
HIGH ROLLER Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Posted August 13, 2007 Unless you've already bought a GT3076R, don't they are very large on a 1.6L and even with a small turbine houseing will be rather laggy. It's do do with rotating mass. If oyu want I'll map what a 1.6L looks like on a GT30R compressor map. if you plan on making anywhere near 300RWkW's (400BHP at the wheels) you'll need to do some serious body modifications to an E20 chassie, including seam welding, cage, tub or SLR rear fenders to fit tyres wide enough, hilux diff, Stiffend rear leaves and dampers, hilux front brakes, a brake booster installed, along with a larger master cylinder, W58 or R154 box. The motor will need be rebuilt with late model GZE pistons, forged rods and a head worth >$2000 to hold on to that kind of power. And Ebay manifold will melt if you consistantly run 30Psi through it, thus you'll need to get a proper steam pipe one made. You'll need a Triple core radiator. My TA22 powerd by a CA18DET with a GTiR T28 made 150RWkW (200BHP at the wheels) on 10psi, and lit up 3rd in a straight line (ok it has 195/50R15's on 8" rims so there a little stretched.) The point is that in a car that weighs ~120kg more than a KE20, that kind of power is very potent and the TA22 has better suspension design. be realistic with what you want to do, a GT3071R wold be a better option and more streetable but still offer plenty of legs, but I'd personally recomend a GT2871R or GT2860RS. These turbos offer great response, good top end and most of all very useable power in a light car. Cheers Jordan P.S: there's a reason I don't want any more than 225RWkW's in my TA22, and that's becaseu any more is just a waste without taking the car to the next level. thanks for the info Jordan, i haven't bought one yet... yeah, iv spoken to GCG Turbo's and Mick @ Mick's Motorsport who is actually running a gt3076R on a 4agte... he thinks it works well on the motor and is good for all around performance...lag will always be more then a gt28... I'm well aware of the other mods needed when i hit such a big power level, including engine internals and body mods... Before doing any rebuild i will just be running it on 14-15 psi with stock internals... Mick made: 250hpATW with 15psi stock internals and gt3076r and 450ATW with 28psi, pistons, rings, copper headgasket...with gt3076r i'll be happy with 200hp atw for now, till i rebuild it... i'll be looking at the supra w58 box and minitubs later on aswell... keep the info coming mate, thanks for the input...BTW id love to see your celica one day as my best mate is building a ca18det in a 70's 323... KEEP ROLLIN! Quote
Jordan Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13990 have a read of this, there is serious time and even more serious money invested in this project, and the results still arn't in. Build something that is realistic and drivable so you can enjoy time behind the wheel rather than covered in grease. Jordan Quote
HIGH ROLLER Posted August 14, 2007 Author Report Posted August 14, 2007 http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13990 have a read of this, there is serious time and even more serious money invested in this project, and the results still arn't in. Build something that is realistic and drivable so you can enjoy time behind the wheel rather than covered in grease. Jordan wow that engine bay is extremely detailed...hopefully mine will be as clean as that... my plan is realistic, and will be still drivable...and i guess my plan is my plan....everybody has different tastes... once the car reaches the power i want it to, then i'll tune it down for street use... I want to have the motor/box/diff/suspension/brakes all finished and running good power and reliability... then just do the looks side, with paint, rims and interior... Quote
beerhead Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 Dyno time is only intented to tune a vehicle, the amount of random HP quotes getting thrown around this tread is ridiculous, so I should join the bandwagon :hmm: There's an SR20det powered KE30 on the forum that just went from around 240 to 280whp, and now doesn't get much traction. The scary part is no-where in your thread have you talked or even asked about brake upgrades, I suppose they'll only slow you down, I must be getting old or something. Jordan is giving you some really really good advice on the turbo too, smallest possible for the power goal will leave you with a much faster car. Fast isn't rated in HP, its rated in the smile you get from a well designed motor that has a power band that is accessible and is able to transfer most of it to the ground. I've seen some interesting vids of dead stock Silvia's lined up, no suspension mods, but with with Standard power - 400bhp. Guess what, the standard car ran the best 1/4 time, peaky wheelspin down the strip is terrible for times. 250bhp, is around 250 flywheel KW, is heaps for a 750kg car. That's enough power to twist a KE20 end to end under torque. You need seam welding and a cage. I hope you know some old school leaf sprung drag racers, you're going to need heaps of work to get the car to bite. Get some suspension, brakes and a cheap little turbo and learn to drive this thing before trying to break records. FFS if you're profile is right you're not even 20 yet and think you need a 10 second car :wink: Quote
Jordan Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 (edited) ^^ is partly the reason i'm using twin Solex PPH40's on my 4AG that's going into my 1968 RT40 corona (not replacing the 2R with a 351 winsor or a 1UZ-FE for example, which would fit.) It wont be the fastest, it'll never handle great and probably use heaps of fuel, brake upgrads are limited due to front suspension design and the fact that the car is 40 years old. But boy when twin side drafts open up with a free flowing exhaust it's a grin from ear to ear. I'll be spending close to $600+ for an old guy with grey hair and some really weird instoments to tune it so that it'll provide the most enjoyment and the most reliability. best of all the conversion is completly legal, no if's or but's because the 2R was a 1.5, the 4AGE is a 1.6 and the T4X/5X chassies came with 1.9's. It's my dayly and I want it to be fun. My Track (circuit) based car the CAA22 needs close to $5/6000 worth of work on suspension and breaks before I'll even consider driving it in anger, let alone on the track. Hell my old stock ST185 GT4 was more than a match for most cars on the road, it was frightnigly fast through the Adelaide hills, too fast and the car weighed 1500kg. That had 4WD, 2LSD, and 225/45R17 rubber on it. The difference is you could use every last bit of the power, none of the 120AWkW's was wasted due to the 4WD. Cheers Jordan just for clarification BHP is measured at the flywheel (unless otherwise stated, as is kW's) however 250Kw's (at the crank) is houghly 250BHP (at the wheels) as stated Edited August 14, 2007 by Jordan Quote
HIGH ROLLER Posted August 14, 2007 Author Report Posted August 14, 2007 Thanks for the input guys, TRUST ME, the brakes and suspension was first on my mind before i chose a motor.... I will probably be going big disks all round and all the upgrades needed to run them... suspension is being taken care of by Allsprings @ Moorebank...and diff shudder is first on my list of "get rid of's"... I know that on the street i won't be able to use 500hpatw.... that's why for the street it will be tuned down to 200-250... getting the power to the ground is a main concern of mine, and when it's finished i guarantee i will be getting it down.... I know that a good dyno figure doesn't mean good 1/4mile times... but it does when the power gets to the ground properly, which is my goal... What does age have to do with quarter mile times? How old r you beerhead.... listen guys, everybody has different goals with their cars... but i REALLY appreciate the advice, and information, please keep it coming... KEEP ROLLIN MarkM Quote
beerhead Posted August 15, 2007 Report Posted August 15, 2007 I'm really only a youngen too, about 26. 1/4 mile passes are great fun if its your thing. 1 tonne cars with over 200hp are nuts, not for the faint hearted, and yours is even lighter! With low weight, out goes some stability and down force. We're not here trying to break your enthusiasm, just want to make sure you know what your getting yourself into. I agree that time doesn't really exist and judging peoples ability based on age is probably a bad move. But I know what I was like till I had a decent smash to settle me down, I was going to be a temporary citizen. If this was from day one, a weekend trailer machine, fully stripped, full cage, tubbed and pushing 500hp, whooping ass down the drags I'd be impressed. I just don't think cars with this power should be street driven for shits and giggles blowing away skylines and commonwhores, you're better than them anyway! Quote
HIGH ROLLER Posted August 15, 2007 Author Report Posted August 15, 2007 I'm really only a youngen too, about 26. 1/4 mile passes are great fun if its your thing. 1 tonne cars with over 200hp are nuts, not for the faint hearted, and yours is even lighter! With low weight, out goes some stability and down force. We're not here trying to break your enthusiasm, just want to make sure you know what your getting yourself into. I agree that time doesn't really exist and judging peoples ability based on age is probably a bad move. But I know what I was like till I had a decent smash to settle me down, I was going to be a temporary citizen. If this was from day one, a weekend trailer machine, fully stripped, full cage, tubbed and pushing 500hp, whooping ass down the drags I'd be impressed. I just don't think cars with this power should be street driven for shits and giggles blowing away skylines and commonwhores, you're better than them anyway! it's never too young to start aye..haha yeah power to weight was a goal of mine, as well as being able to get it engineered... it will be hard to keep straight, i know that, and to keep it down... but i'm a pretty conservative driver on the road, aside from the odd fang... "cars don't kill people, people kill people..." a wise saying... I know i have much research and practice to do in driving this car right...but the best way to learn is to DO IT! HAHAHA Bommo's and skylines wouldnt stand a chance...but on the street my car will be just for show/sleep... and to get people scratchin their heads... talking about stripping it and taking it off the road, When i'm done with my power advntures with the 4age, i will be taking on a new project...same car tho... I want to do a 2jz or 20b turbo in the ke20.... just for something big for track only...but thats years away from now... KEEP ROLLIN! :wink: Quote
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