Check Brake Booster :o

Fitted cover to throttle body, nearly all good, idle is under 1500, but there is very loud whistle under full vacuum, obviously a small air leak, but stuffed if I can find it. Have removed the bolt on covers, makes no difference, can't see any holes in the welding, anyone got any ideas, or how to find the bastard?

 

spray Areostart. around the joints the tone will change

thanks guys, didn't push clamp down on brake booster hose, so here's hoping, will get Aerostart if that don't work.

soapy water is better cos you can see it bubbling, if you don't have a mechanics ear you'll hardly notice Aerostart or carb clean

soapy water is better cos you can see it bubbling, if you don't have a mechanics ear you'll hardly notice Aerostart or carb clean

...agreed; if you were looking for positive pressure leaks, this will be a vacuum leak somewhere, although I guess I could use this technique by blowing compressed air into the plenum while the engine is stopped, cheers.

...agreed; if you were looking for positive pressure leaks, this will be a vacuum leak somewhere, although I guess I could use this technique by blowing compressed air into the plenum while the engine is stopped, cheers.

 

 

If you think its a hose leak get your oil can and put a bit of oil on the join see if it disappears or quietens the noise. don't use soapy water that is just plain stupid.

If you think its a hose leak get your oil can and put a bit of oil on the join see if it disappears or quietens the noise. don't use soapy water that is just plain stupid.

 

Too late made a bloody mess! Really freaky, I hooked the brake booster back up properly and the whistle got less, started trickling soapy water around and as it trickled around the throttle body, the noise stopped! Revved it up and noise started again, trickled more water, stopped again, this time I think for good! I reckon the hole must have been microscopic, and the "thick" soapy water has blocked it. Idle is now quiet and 1000 rpm, the lowest its ever been since I've had it!

 

Fabricated cover, not bling, :lolcry: but may provide a bit more bonnet clearance.

 

 

One benefit of having the butterfly activator (what's the proper term?) on this side of plenum is that I may be able to use the existing throttle cable bracket rather than having to weld onto the other side of the plenum.

Edited December 19, 200718 yr by machg

Too late made a bloody mess! Really freaky, I hooked the brake booster back up properly and the whistle got less, started trickling soapy water around and as it trickled around the throttle body, the noise stopped! Revved it up and noise started again, trickled more water, stopped again, this time I think for good! I reckon the hole must have been microscopic, and the "thick" soapy water has blocked it. Idle is now quiet and 1000 rpm, the lowest its ever been since I've had it!

 

Fabricated cover, not bling, :lolcry: but may provide a bit more bonnet clearance.

 

 

One benefit of having the butterfly activator (what's the proper term?) on this side of plenum is that I may be able to use the existing throttle cable bracket rather than having to weld onto the other side of the plenum.

 

well i guess the inside of your motor had a steam clean at the same time.

Quick question: AE82; A=A series engine, E=body type? 82=model number. Does that mean that I will be able to use the twinky's steering rack and column in the TE71? How about pedal box, dash? Cheers, machg

Quick question: AE82; A=A series engine, E=body type? 82=model number. Does that mean that I will be able to use the twinky's steering rack and column in the TE71? How about pedal box, dash? Cheers, machg

 

Unlikely, no, and negative. AE82 are fwd and a completely different floorpan and body.

 

The 'E' just means corolla.

Damn, thanks for reply

Home at last, home at last, thank God almighty, home at last!

 

 

Anyone for 4wding?

 

 

Thanks to relatives for tow car (sorry about the paint off the rear bumper) and Andrew Bird of Don Towing (plug, plug) for lend of the trailer...

 

...real fun starts tomorrow :y:

 

Oh yeah, got a spare 4ag(z)e head and A series bellhousing from Jonny too.

Edited December 27, 200718 yr by machg

Phase 1: Strip car, removing all fixed glass except for hatch (fairly rust free) then strip all the paint except underneath (again, looks pretty solid)

Before:

 

 

After:

 

100% success, no broken glass, even the rubber seals around the small window came out undamaged. front and rear screens show no evidence of rust, so they are staying in.

 

Good news, on sides, rust is pretty much limited to outer skin; bad news, getting access with a welder is going to be hard...

 

 

next stop, paint stripper