Raven Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 clamp a;ll the lines and undo one by one, see what helps :( I'd love to do that, but it has a solid pedal when stationary and as soon as I drive the car, it loses the pedal, so thats not going to work unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 that doesnt make sense, how does the car moving affect the braking system? drive it with the handbrake on slightly, and see how the brakes are, could be the rears playing up with the drums not adjusted right, ive driven a datsun that you had to apply the handbrake to get some pedal pressure, because the rear drums were that far out of adjustment lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 that doesnt make sense, how does the car moving affect the braking system? drive it with the handbrake on slightly, and see how the brakes are, could be the rears playing up with the drums not adjusted right, ive driven a datsun that you had to apply the handbrake to get some pedal pressure, because the rear drums were that far out of adjustment lol Exactly, it doesnt make sense at all, but thats how it is. I've adjusted the rear drums properly as well and still lose the pedal. Having the handbrake on doesnt have any effect at all and the car doesnt have boosted brakes either, so its really strange that the brakes are fine when still, but then they disappear completely until you pump the pedal a couple of times and they come back again while driving. Anyone else have any ideas on this one besides rebuilding the front calipers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Exactly, it doesnt make sense at all, but thats how it is. I've adjusted the rear drums properly as well and still lose the pedal. Having the handbrake on doesnt have any effect at all and the car doesnt have boosted brakes either, so its really strange that the brakes are fine when still, but then they disappear completely until you pump the pedal a couple of times and they come back again while driving. Anyone else have any ideas on this one besides rebuilding the front calipers? Maybe try Checking these raven, 1 maybe one of your rubber brake hose that is "ballooning" when the brakes are applied. 2 Air still in system 3 tandem safety valve needs resting 4 front wheel bearings too loose. 5 Excessive disc run out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Maybe try Checking these raven, 1 maybe one of your rubber brake hose that is "ballooning" when the brakes are applied. 2 Air still in system 3 tandem safety valve needs resting 4 front wheel bearings too loose. 5 Excessive disc run out. 1 - All brake lines have been replaced 2 - Air has been bled out, as I have a clear line with no bubbles 3 - ?? If you mean the anti-lock brake bias valve towards the rear, I've bled that via the workshop manual's instructions and again clear fluid 4 - All wheel bearings were retightened 5 - New straight rotors were put on the front and I've also noticed I get a massive groan from the front when applying the brakes and turning right that travels through the front end and up the steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TE278U Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 I'm having the same problem, except i just had my calipers rebuilt, and after bleeding the system, i get clear fluid, but the caliper can be slid back and forth while the car is static. i have to pump the pedal to get the right amount of travel. -dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 1 - All brake lines have been replaced 2 - Air has been bled out, as I have a clear line with no bubbles 3 - ?? If you mean the anti-lock brake bias valve towards the rear, I've bled that via the workshop manual's instructions and again clear fluid 4 - All wheel bearings were retightened 5 - New straight rotors were put on the front and I've also noticed I get a massive groan from the front when applying the brakes and turning right that travels through the front end and up the steering column. jack up and slip off the calipers check for movement of the disc via wheel bearing and worpage, also check caliper mounts etc. something there is retracting the caliper whilst driving. that is all it can be. if the calipers were sticky the brakes would be dragging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 It feels as if the brakes are dragging a little. I'll be swapping over calipers on Wednesday night and seeing if that helps anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 I got told it had ke30 calipers on there when i had it. straight from the guy that owned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) KE25/KE30 calipers are exactly the same brand named Sumitomo. I've compared the calipers with my other KE25 and they're the same calipers. Edited January 11, 2009 by Raven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 oooooooooh. i see :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 sweet just what I wanted to know hehehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 there is one other possibility the rear brake circuit should have a residual check valve fitted so the cups don't suck in. in systems with disc and drums without a residual check valve the rear wheel cylinders will require expanders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Rear valve is definitely there and I have the bias valve on the firewall too. Guess I'll see how I go with the caliper change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Rear valve is definitely there and I have the bias valve on the firewall too. Guess I'll see how I go with the caliper change. if you want a quick diagnosis get some flexible brake line scissor type clamps, clamp the back take for a drive on a quiet road with handbrake ready , if no better swap to left front, then try right front you should be able to quickly identify where the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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