Trev Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 You have to manually put the car into diagnostic mode by shorting the terminals T (some are TE1) & E1, When you have the ignition switched to on the engine light will flash, With the info you just gave me I don't mean to be rude by saying take your car to someone who knows what they are doing, Someone doing something for free could cost more in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE80Rollaguy Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 No worries, I can understand your frustration! As I mentioned, my brother is a/and my mechanic and he will be looking at the car, he just hasn't had a change with getting back to work and finishing customers cars etc. He didn't think plugging into the computer would help any. He seemed to think that if an error code was logged, that the engine light would come on. In this case my engine light isn't on, which he suspects would mean no codes have been logged. Do you agree? Does the engine light ALWAYS come on no matter what code has been logged?? Obviously there's only one way to find out, plug in and see... But yeah, he's not an auto sparky, he's a mechanic. The other thing I wanted to know was (after browsing through the FAQ section of the site), for my model how will I know what codes mean what?? Where would I get a list of these? Just contact Toyota? Cause I'm assuming there would be different codes for my model compared to the Conquest/Levin models... I'm pretty sure toyota wont just hand them over..... but I'm sure your local mechanic will be happy to at a lil charge... as we use the DIL (diagnostics indicator lamp) method to test fault codes where i work quite easy to do aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 I have all the toyota fault codes and am happy to help, I just need the ones out of the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hiro Protagonist Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 The other thing I wanted to know was (after browsing through the FAQ section of the site), for my model how will I know what codes mean what?? Where would I get a list of these? Just contact Toyota? Cause I'm assuming there would be different codes for my model compared to the Conquest/Levin models... Can't hurt, apart from the turbo and piping (and maybe an extra sensor or two) the engine is 90-100% the same as a normal AE112 or AE102 7AFE, so I bet most of the codes would be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Update: Throttle body / butterfly has been cleaned as it had quite a bit of carbon built up in it. So the car idles a lot better now and is running alot smoother and we think this will solve the random stalling here and there. The clutch has been adjusted a bit as it was getting sloppy. Checked diagnostics for codes- nothing came up. Check the spark plugs - they are clean as. Battery - putting out the correct charge / working fine. So we're still left with the issue of the car 'choking' at high rpm's/heavy load. We thought this model had an in-tank fuel filter which would need changing but after Toyota looking into it, we've found out they don't. And that was our only real theory. So yeah, now we're back to square one :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Do you have a boost gauge? Could be over boosting or the knock sensor may be picking up knock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quadeyquade Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 it might not be getting enough fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 So, Friday I had the car back and it was driving fine, wasn't playing up at all. So Friday night we hooked a scanner / computer to the car and requested fault codes - there were none. While we had the computer connected the car shut down, a number of times and there was still no fault codes showing. We checked the spark at this point and there wasn't one. So we pulled the dizzy cap off and searched for any marks or cracks. We found a very very small hairline crack. So Saturday morning we drove to Slacks Creek and picked up a new dizzy cap and rotor button. Drove home, put the dizzy cap on and my brother too it for a test drive, once he got home and parked the car, it idled for about 2mins in the garage and then stalled. It has been consistently playing up since then. It'll idle for how ever long, then shut down, then you can't start it for a while, then it'll start and cycle continues. We decided we'd get the car to my brother workshop so his electrician could look at it. We made it from Capalaba to Belmont and it had already shut down about 5 times along the road. So we tracked down a car trailer and it shut down three times just getting it on the trailer... So its now in the hands of the auto electrician to have fun with and diagnose... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 :facepalm: Why hook a scan tool up to a car that has a perfectly good & readable diagnostic system, do the CARS own diagnosis test and going by what you are saying the car is now worse since you had the computer connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEI069 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 :facepalm: Why hook a scan tool up to a car that has a perfectly good & readable diagnostic system, do the CARS own diagnosis test and going by what you are saying the car is now worse since you had the computer connected. A scan tool plugs directly into the cars ecu (computer). Having it plugged in cannot make the problem worse. The scan toll should also be able to give you live or active data, and this is where you should be looking for the problem. Drive the car with the scan tool connected and when it stalls see if you can locate the missing input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 A scan tool plugs directly into the cars ecu (computer). Having it plugged in cannot make the problem worse. The scan toll should also beable to give you live or active data, and this is where you should be looking for the problem. Drive the car with the scan tool connected and when it stalls see if you can locate the missing input. I know what a fvckin scan tool is but why use one when the car will tell you what is wrong anyway and doesn't this mention that it was fine before it was connected: So, Friday I had the car back and it was driving fine, wasn't playing up at all. So Friday night we hooked a scanner / computer to the car and requested fault codes - there were none. While we had the computer connected the car shut down, a number of times and there was still no fault codes showing. Have fun fixing the car, It seems that you don't wanna listen to info that could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I know what a fvckin scan tool is but why use one when the car will tell you what is wrong anyway and doesn't this mention that it was fine before it was connected: Have fun fixing the car, It seems that you don't wanna listen to info that could help. Sorry, let me rephrase it... The car HADN'T played up again... But as my previous posts suggest, to date, the car hasn't been playing up with any routine anyways, so the fact that I'd been driving it Friday and it hadn't played up means nothing. The cars own diagnostic system was checked on Thursday (as stated in my previous post) and no flashes came up to indicate a problem. Its not a matter of not listening to the forums suggestions, it a matter of telling the forum what we've done and eliminating suggestions made by forum members. We did have the scan tool connected when the car shut down and afterwards, the data hadn't changed at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeLJ Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Computer mechanics..... Sometimes the best bet is to resort to the ways of old with actually checking parts and swapping things out unitl you can isolate the problem instead of just deciding to throw a scan tool on or check the diag. codes and hope that tells you what to do... Where was the dizzy cracked? From what I read, it seems you thought the initial stalling problem was fixed by cleaning the throttle body, but the car was still dying in higher revs? What sort of revs were you pulling before it started to miss? was it a missfire? or did it just seem like it had no more to give? could be the spark starting to break down over a certain RPM, but that wouldnt explain the other issues. Is the car modified at all engine wise? Never had any other issues? Its definitely eletrical IMO, but as others have said, its always hard to diagnose what exactly is the problem. I wouldnt take it to a dealership, most of the time they will just plug it into a computer and then stand and scratch their head when it doesnt tell them what to do. If you hadnt already resorted to the autolek then I would suggest grabbing some bits from a freinds sportivo and trying them bit by bit to see what might solve the problem (if you knew someone with one of course) Good luck with it, having a consitent pain in the arse problem is always.. well a royal pain in the arse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Computer mechanics..... Sometimes the best bet is to resort to the ways of old with actually checking parts and swapping things out unitl you can isolate the problem instead of just deciding to throw a scan tool on or check the diag. codes and hope that tells you what to do... Where was the dizzy cracked? There was a 5mm hairline crack in the plastic rim coming from around the centre pin From what I read, it seems you thought the initial stalling problem was fixed by cleaning the throttle body, but the car was still dying in higher revs? The throttle body was really dirty yes, and we thought it may have been getting stuck and causin problems with the idle etc. It hasn't been dying at high revs necessarily, its been 'chocking' at high revs, but shutting down where ever it likes. Its done it more often on idle, but when we attempted to drive the car to the workshop it was shutting down while driving it still in say 5th gear doing 80kph ish. The shutting down was happening regardless of the car being stationery or the revs. What sort of revs were you pulling before it started to miss? was it a missfire? or did it just seem like it had no more to give? The 'chocking' its been doing at high revs is like, it wants to go but can't and doesn't... Like it hesitates to make power. Hence why my original thought was boost leak somewhere. But since this shutting down has been happenin, we haven't been able to drive the car for long eough to determine if is still doing that or not... It was driving great, all day every day, even with the choking (only 'choked' when you gave it full throttle). Like it wasn't missfiring, wasn't using excessive fuel, was driving fine. Then it started this 'shutting down' business when there was those few really hot days and the car was parked out in the sun at work and over christmas at in-laws places could be the spark starting to break down over a certain RPM, but that wouldnt explain the other issues. Yeah, thats what we thought which led us to the dizzy cap and rotor button change... Is the car modified at all engine wise? Never had any other issues? Its definitely eletrical IMO, but as others have said, its always hard to diagnose what exactly is the problem. The car is completely factory. Not even an exhaust or an aftermarket stereo lol... The only mods its got are mag wheels. I wouldnt take it to a dealership, most of the time they will just plug it into a computer and then stand and scratch their head when it doesnt tell them what to do. Its been taken to my brothers workshop at Enoggera for his autotek to look at it... The suspect now is the imobilising system. As these have been known to play up this way in other cars... And I guess at least its a starting point. If you hadnt already resorted to the autolek then I would suggest grabbing some bits from a freinds sportivo and trying them bit by bit to see what might solve the problem (if you knew someone with one of course) We thought about that when we suspected it was the ditributor... But now we're certain its electrical. Cause he car doesn't stall really, it pretty much just 'shuts down' and there's no warning, no shuddering of the engine, its just BANG and its turned off... Good luck with it, having a consitent pain in the arse problem is always.. well a royal pain in the arse. Yeah, tell me about it... Thanks heaps for your help though. Its just got us stuffed why its playing up the way it does... But we're not autotek's :hmm: But she's getting looked at in the next couple of days... So I should have an answer one way or another soon... Has anyone else on here heard of imobiliers breaking down and causing this 'shutting down' type problem? Either in a AE112 or any other vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryton brown Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 No, not with those symptoms. I have never seen an immobiliser shut a car down once it has started nor make it lose power or falter. when it shut down, you said it had no spark. You also said in a previous post that the problem also affected the tacho. I have seen this symptom when an ignition module is breaking down. Pull the distributor out and pull it apart and inspect the coil for any burn marks or hot spots and have it bench tested, i have seen these give trouble from time to time. All the symptoms you describe point directly to the distributor! So as i said before, the problem is most likely in there somewhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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