jason12 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Yeah i imagine with a cam itd make more of a difference, my only mod is an exhaust (no extractors) Can you remember what combo of jets you used? I'm guessing 323 primary 929 secondries? Will have to learn how to pull the jets out first haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 (edited) Yeah I'm pretty sure that was it, nice guess, was a massive cam though. I also fitted a small bolt to the vacuum secondaries actuator to have them open a bit early too. Was an 88-42 cam or so I was told, extractors and 2 1/4 system. Was gutless down low but you would zoom past V6 commo's once it got on song. Edited May 19, 2010 by beerhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason12 Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 So the stock jets were too big even with the mods you had? Interesting... this is making me want a cam lol.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 (edited) Anyone got pics of the crimping the accelerator cable bit? The extra pics on the first page don't work :rolls: Edited May 20, 2010 by blzbub666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 I just went to a push bike shop and got a screw down brake pedal cable attachment. Cut down the cable and bolt it on together with loctite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 Sorry I still can't see how it works. I get what ya all mean but struggling to visualise it. I'm guessing its to take up slack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 Here you go - Pics say 1000 words. You can get crimp on ones too. I Googled "bicycle brake cable end" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 Got ya, makes sense now! Too easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suziefox73 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 To put my experience of Nikki conversions to use, i used to own a RA28 Celica brought stocko with extractors then fitted a Nikki from a Datto 280c! Swapped to a 32/36 DGAV but lost power had it checked by a carb recoer who rejetted it but still no improvement! So i swapped back to the Nikki, then Saturday morn when i was at the local wreckers with a mate i noticed a Nikki sitting atop an old Mustard yellow 74 180B, not bolted down! Lifted it up just out of interest as it looked quite big, turned it over and was dumbstruck! Paid $20 for it at the counter and took it home, fiited it within half an hour and went for what i planned a short blocki to check if it was any better! 1/2hr later i returned jumped out in the driveway popped the bonnet and stood there shaking my head! Damn thing went like the stink, in that half hour i'd out run a mild port 12A RX2 and a mild 6cly VH to 100kmphr in a 100km zone! Speeding is Deadly ok!!! So if you want the best Nikki ever made look towards the early 180B and fit a weaker secondary vac spring so the secondaries open sooner! old Gemmi trick!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason12 Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Where would i be able to grab a different spring? i think mines missing altogether at the moment... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 one member is saying that they are poo (clonk out before going around a bend) couple of member is saying mad induction and better fuel economy another member is saying go 180B carby I'm confused? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Never had a drama with mine, Don't listen to them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 I'd advise if considering fitting a bigger carb to fit a vacuum gauge first. Hammer the car through the gears and take a note of the lowest vacuum reading gained. If you are getting 0-1" vacuum a bigger carb won't be of any benefit as the carb is not a restriction. If you are getting readings of 2" or more of vacuum, remove the filter and try again to see if the readings drop... If so the filter is the restriction, fit a sports element. If even without the filter you are pulling 2" or more of vacuum at full throttle through the gears, then yes the carb is a restriction and a bigger carb will be of use to your combo. I ran a stock rejetted 3k carb on the warm 5k in my car for a bit. It would pull 3-4" of vacuum at full noise through the lower gears. With my DCD weber it pegs the needle at 0" of vacuum... LOL, you can hear the ping of the needle as it hits the zero stop through the gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Where would i be able to grab a different spring? i think mines missing altogether at the moment... http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=105645 here man this might help i started of thinking the spring was on the outside :) lol then google showed me the light hahaha there's some pretty interesting stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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