Axentrik Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) bought this around october 2008, from Japanese Performance Imports in Wingfield, it came with rosejointed castor arms, T series LSD a pair of SW20 MR2 Buckets, and some positive offset 14inch longchamps. Wasn't too happy with the pressure pack can panda paint job and rounded out rear quarters due to dodgy repairs so within the week a deal had been made with John and Simon from Phoenix Paint and Panel to fix up the dents and straighten out the panels. Before long the project had escalated into a full respray. John and Simon did a great job of the body and paintwork and i can't thank them enough. when i first got the vertex kit it didn't fit right but now it looks overrated. John actually raised all the top parts so there's virtually no gap between bar and car. there's still work to be done mostly mechanical and suspension now i've got the bodywork out the way. will keep thread updated. Body/Interior Current 1983 ADM Sprinter SW20 MR2 Seats Razo Gear Knob Buddy Parts Hand Brake Button Random Dished wheel + Rays horn button/ centre piece Stripped interior + sound deadening behind rear seats Dash/Console and Trim Painted Black JVC USB deck NavMan GPS Plans Bolt in half cage Engine Current 4AC 32/36 DGA Weber T Series LSD Plans S/T 20V 4AGE New Rings Bearings 0.5 mm TRD Head Gasket 4-2-1 Extractors Coil Packs Microtech/Adaptronic/Autronic/Haltech ETC Suspension Current Rose Jointed Panhard Rod Rose Jointed castor rods brand unknown Plans Front Camber Tops Front Coil Overs XT130 LCAS Sway Bar Power Steering Arms Rear Rose Jointed 4 links Rear Coil Overs Sway Bar Exterior Vertex Front Bar Vertex Side Skirts Vertex rear Bar Full re spray Bright Red (3E6) Black Bonnet (202) Levin Grill White Lines Wheels Current 4 14x8.5 -7 SSR MKII 2 14x7.0 +/- 0 SSR XR4 Long Champs Plans 4 15x8 0 Sport Max 501's 4 15x7.5 0 Kong B Bombs My original intentions for the car was to use as a daily driver but i figure by the time i'm finished with this it will be susceptible to the swine flu so i'm thinking about getting a clean ke10/11 for a daily. Edited September 5, 2009 by Axentrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chobis Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 All sounds great, but :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axentrik Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) Edited July 27, 2009 by Axentrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowler Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Wow. Looks impressive mate. GL with the build. what are the plans with the brake package? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axentrik Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) ahh A J P S do a brake kit with FC RX7 Calipers and EG civic rotors. will leave the rears stock, drum breaks are fine on the rear apparently better for hand brake entries. Edited July 27, 2009 by Axentrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae174agze Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 i'v just put on the rx7 break upgrade and its awsorm looks the part with the phat disks and callies, and peace of piss to put on makes the breaks feel alot longer, havent try actually breaking with them yet but the peddal feels alot longer, i'd probably go for the master cyl as well for that little more A j P s is the shiznik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeAE71 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Nice choice on the 20 valve, if you want enlightenment there is a good thread on here showing you how to do it. Also check my ride thread if you like I am in SA and I have done this conversion already :) This will be a nice rig, bound to get some attention on here as there aren't so many 86's round these parts :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axentrik Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 alright thanks for the help mate. I've already purchased a cheap Silver Top for $400 complete with quads and loom (just need a TPS). going to freshen it up before i put it in. new rings/bearings, lighten and balanced knife edged crank, new plugs and seals. and will be running a 0.6 or 0.8mm TRD head gasket. there isn't much info about head gasket widths online and the little info i find is conflicting. some people say running a 0.5mm is fine others say i risk valves smashing into pistons etc. there is also conflicting info about ECU's, some people swear by Microtechs and other say that the 500rpm load points is too low resolution and unsuitable for a 20v. i only mention the microtechs because i know i can get them really cheap off ebay or a few businesses in adelaide i know who can do my whole engine installation with a microtech ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowler Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 alright thanks for the help mate. I've already purchased a cheap Silver Top for $400 complete with quads and loom (just need a TPS). going to freshen it up before i put it in. new rings/bearings, lighten and balanced knife edged crank, new plugs and seals. and will be running a 0.6 or 0.8mm TRD head gasket. there isn't much info about head gasket widths online and the little info i find is conflicting. some people say running a 0.5mm is fine others say i risk valves smashing into pistons etc. there is also conflicting info about ECU's, some people swear by Microtechs and other say that the 500rpm load points is too low resolution and unsuitable for a 20v. i only mention the microtechs because i know i can get them really cheap off ebay or a few businesses in adelaide i know who can do my whole engine installation with a microtech ecu. Nice score on the 20v - where from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axentrik Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) some guy in adelaide, had a few old school rwd lancers, and an ae92 with either a small port or silvertop. the S/T was advertised in the trading post. he was very helpful offered some knowledge and advice and seemed genuinely interested in my application for his engine. Edited July 27, 2009 by Axentrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeAE71 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 alright thanks for the help mate. I've already purchased a cheap Silver Top for $400 complete with quads and loom (just need a TPS). going to freshen it up before i put it in. new rings/bearings, lighten and balanced knife edged crank, new plugs and seals. and will be running a 0.6 or 0.8mm TRD head gasket. there isn't much info about head gasket widths online and the little info i find is conflicting. some people say running a 0.5mm is fine others say i risk valves smashing into pistons etc. there is also conflicting info about ECU's, some people swear by Microtechs and other say that the 500rpm load points is too low resolution and unsuitable for a 20v. i only mention the microtechs because i know i can get them really cheap off ebay or a few businesses in adelaide i know who can do my whole engine installation with a microtech ecu. I'm using a Microtech because I got hold of mine quite cheap and it was also brand new for the price :) That is a good price for the ST 20V and if you are only going to freshen it up then it was well worth the price. If you want any recommendations on businesses for this thing give me a hoy via PM. I had some interesting experiences having mine wired and tuned that's for sure. I did the rest myself though and I would recommend you do too, it ain't that hard and now I reckon I could do one within a day now I know what I'm doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axentrik Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 ok thanks mate, you sound like a champ. i might give you a holla when i'm ready to put the engine in. sometimes it can be a prick getting the engine and gearbox in the hole with only so many hands. my dads a qualified mechanic so i will be doing the rings and bearings myself with his supervision. but will still have to get a pro to wire up and tune my ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeAE71 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 ok thanks mate, you sound like a champ. i might give you a holla when i'm ready to put the engine in. sometimes it can be a prick getting the engine and gearbox in the hole with only so many hands. my dads a qualified mechanic so i will be doing the rings and bearings myself with his supervision. but will still have to get a pro to wire up and tune my ECU. You would be surprised how easy these things go in, in fact they are easier to work on and install than that lump of 4AC you remove to put it in there :) Are you looking to turbo the 20 valve later on down the track?? If so I would be thinking of throwing parts into the engine with that in mind. Not wanting to get all negative up in here or put you off but a standard or slightly worked 20 valve is not going to set you on fire if you know what I mean :) I like mine for the responsiveness and revs etc and it works well as a daily driver but it is no rocket ship :P I am definitely thinking of going turbo on mine, but I think I will wait until I can afford to build a motor to handle it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axentrik Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) nah don't feel the need for a turbo in such a light vehicle. i would port/polish, do the valves and go for some 272 cams before that. Edited August 11, 2009 by Axentrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeAE71 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 turbo is GAY. never in a million years will i turbo it. Ok then well what kind of power output would you like to see from this thing? Mine has 91 rwkw, and I don't consider it to be fast :) I have heard of (not seen or been in) a 20V in Adelaide putting 125kw at the wheels, with big cams etc. I would like to see it though so I can believe it. Apparently though it is a bit difficult to drive due to the cams etc. It all depends on what you want and also what you have driven previously. I personally think the 20 valve is worth it over the 16 valve (not withstanding the fact that every man and his dog now has a 16 valve so 20 valve is original) :P 20 valves are starting to pop up a bit now though and not just in the front wheel drivers :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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