ahahah sweet as, i like to think i have a bit of muscle!, i might get my slightly stronger mate to come round and help me out, i had a feeling that it was a pretty light gearbox, but didn't want to find out when it was on top of my arm or something!

lol ok so its all going pretty well considering i can only get short periods to work on it, got gearbox out, and your right Taz, its light as.

So this arvo got back from school, got the clutch out. So i've been told to get my flywheel resurfaced, atm it looks worn and i can see the need to get it resurfaced.

 

I had a quick shot at loosening it, but alas now i have to get ready for work.

 

Problem being how do i loosen the bolts holding it on, without the bloody thing moving, when removing the clutch plate i just hit the spanner with a hammer and that loosened em, can't seem to do it with the flywheel, might be something simple but ya kno.....first time for everything :P.

 

 

Would a clutch change guide/gearbox removal guide be good for the ke70 faq section?, or would it be a bit of a useless thing. Cos if someone reckons its a good idea i coild get pictures and write up a guide on how to do so.....just my 2cents worth

the flywheel bolts are going to be aloott tighter than clutch pressure plate bolts,

 

one thing i did once to get a flywheel off a motor when it was out of a car, was wedge a large screwdriver into the flywheel teeth and to the ground and then jump on a larger breaker bar.

 

when putting the flywheel back on you should also torque the bolts correctly with a roque wrench

Spigot bearing should come with the clutch kit.

 

no no.. Thrust bearing comes with the kit, but spigot brg is a $10 bearing that sits inside the crankshaft and holds the gearbox input shaft nose. Buy separately.

 

I haven't used an alignment tool for years, just get a small torch and look inside the spigot bearing, making sure the clutch plate, spigot bearing, and pressure plate all make concentric circles. Mind you, sometimes I've struggled with a gearbox that just WON"T go in because I was wrong!

 

For flywheel bolts have someone with a big flatblade screwdriver jam the teeth against a bolt; and smack your ring spanner with a hammer. Always work on the bolt "across the circle" so you get maximum leverage against the turning of the crank.

 

Good luck, not too hard a job, and at least you will know it is well done if you do it yourself.

Edited August 12, 200917 yr by altezzaclub

ill eat my weetbix tomorrow morning, and then ill do my best to get those bolts off!, I CAN DO IT!!! :P , also cranking eye of the tiger will help!

Use a long or extended socketwrench on the bolt you want to loosen and a long/extended spanner on the oposite bolt for locking.

 

When you get to the 2nd last bolt just crack it loose and then move on loosen the last. 2nd last can then be loosend by hammer & spanner without locking

 

Hasn`t failed me yet

ooook so ive cleaned up my gearbox, gotten my flywheel resurfaced, now time to change over bits.

 

How do i go about getting the release bearing off so i can replace it?, it doesn't wanna budge off of its thing its on, is there something i'm missing or do i just need to try harder??

 

thanks

With the release bearing you should be able to hit it on the inside with a screwdriver or similar and it will start to pry apart from the bearing carrier. It really doesn't matter how you do it so long as you don't damage the bearing carrier part. If you damage the bearing it is no worry as you are replacing it anyway. I don't think I was very careful when I did mine :)

 

However, this is important...

 

When you put the new one on you need to press it on quite hard. I found the best way is to get a socket that is same size as the inside lip of the bearing and hit it with a hammer to get it on. Don't hit anywhere else on the bearing otherwise you have just screwed the bearing and will need a new one :y:

hahaha cheers man, ill give it a whirl now

Hey dude that worked like a charm, now trying to replace the seals, the one where the tail shaft meets the gearbox, how would i go about replacing that one??

 

Thanks

Umm don't know sorry...

 

Was it leaking? If not I wouldn't worry about just put it all back together. You can always pop your tailshaft out quickly another day to replace it. Tailshaft is only four bolts to the diff and two to the body in the middle section.

Hey dude that worked like a charm, now trying to replace the seals, the one where the tail shaft meets the gearbox, how would i go about replacing that one??

 

Thanks

 

grab a long hook and just pull the bugger out. you can take the dust cover off too to make things sooo much easier.

 

to install the new seal, smear a bit of gearbox oil around the outer edge (and inner edge too if you'd like). line it up and put a large socket (the same size as the seal) behind it. gently tap the socket with a hammer so the seal ends up flush with the gearbox output.

So... what does the flywheel weigh now?? While I had ours out we took it down to 6kg, not a lot off but it all helps...

Yeah i only took mine down to 6kg, I'm not after a powerhouse atm :P.

 

Sucks being sick, can't find the energy to lift that gearbox back up into the car -_-, hopefully tomorrow night maybe :P

Hey guys, been too sick to work on the ke lately, went back out to align the clutch, using my "special" clutch alignment tool, turns out i have NOOOOOOO idea how to use it......i've got a pic of the thing, and there's multiple little nobs that u can use. I can't seem to use any of the nobs to be able to hold the clutch disk in one secure location....on the box it just shows some dude sticking the tool in the clutch, not much help :bash: