Clutch is slipping like crazay on the ke70, when replacing it, is it possible to just get a clutch, or do i need a clutch replacement kit?

 

Cheers guyz

Edited August 3, 200917 yr by ke71-rolla

buy a kit (pressure plate, friction disc and throwout bearing) and a spigot bearing as well. Take the flywheel off, get it machined (resurfaced) and if you are adventurous and have some other engine mods get it machined (weight reduction) as well. If the rear main oil seal appears to be leaking at all then replace it. Do a nice thorough job of cleaning the bellhousing/gearbox up, and fit it all back together. I'd use the opportunity to change the gearbox oil as well (nobody ever replaces gearbox oil these days) and you are all under control. not too big a job in the scheme of things either, and a corolla clutch is reasonably priced, I payed $130 trade for a heavy duty clutch kit a few years back. My subaru's clutch is worth $300 trade, and the later models especially dual mass flywheel clutches can go up to $1000 or more...

 

Robert.

shicko, i was considering taking it to the mechanics, buy all of the parts myself and get them to fit it if they agree, middle of year twelve isn't the best time to spend a day cleaning the car up....as nice as it would be to do it myself. I have a feeling that my seal might be leaking, nice moist patch around it.

Edited August 1, 200917 yr by ke71-rolla

as long as you take it go a good mechanic that you know will do a good job. I have problems sometimes with the standard of work that comes out of mechanical workshops, I personally like the job to not only be done but to look like it is done and done well, ie clean the parts properly!! I know a lot of people that wouldn't bother cleaning the gearbox up, and even wouldn't bother replacing the rear main despite it leaking.....

 

Robert.

Ok called the mechanics today, gonna cost 650 -_-, screw that, ill do it myself. Now what will i need

 

-Hydraulic jack

-Wheel ramps

-Clutch Kit

-Spigot Bearing

 

What should be used to clean it all up?, also what about a clutch alignment tool, is this necessary.

Is the job pretty straight forward, as far as i know it is, just from looking at gearboxes and replacing them, although i've never had to replace the clutch.

 

Just wanna be prepared for any sort of mishaps i might have, or any odd bits.

 

Thanks guys

Spigot bearing should come with the clutch kit.

 

Clutch aligning tool isn't essential, just very helpful, and if you buy one, you'll have it for the rest of your life.

 

The further off the ground you can get the car, the easier the job will be.

 

Torque wrench would be helpful, but not essential. Make sure you do all the clutch bolts up evenly.

 

FWIW, I've seen the TRD brothers on here replace a clutch in 17 minutes in a paddock. Easy job on a 70, shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours. :hmm:

ahaha cheers, figured i couldn't really go wrong anywhere, thanks again

Ok taking the gearbox off, all going pretty smoothly, just a question.

 

I think its the starter motor??, is connected to the gearbox, i've bailed for the night (bloody family dinners digging into my car time! lol) and wont get back to it untill tomorrow arvo.

enough banter, my question is, will this just come off of the gearbox when i remove the bolt which is connecting it to the gearbox housing, or will i have to remove some other bolts?

 

Thanks guyz!

There should be 2 bolts holding the starter in place, once you remove those, it'll slide out of it's slot and you'll be good to go. :D

remember to get a replacement for your leaking seal :D You might loose some gearoil as well if you pull the driveshaft out

uh, how the hell do i go about disconnecting the clutch cable?, i can't really see anyway of getting it off of the bellhousing

 

thanks

Undo the c-clip on the clutch cable at the firewall, then you should be easily able to remove the end of the clutch cable on the clutch fork. After that you have to pull the cable through the hole in the bellhousing.

How has anyone lowered the gearbox outa their cars....ive done it previously with a hydralic jack, but i can't get the gearbox to sit nicely on this jack.... -_-, ah the joys of a shed with tools that barely do the job

put a tyre under it, without a rim, just the tyre, and once the gearbox is ready to be pulled out, get behind it at the back of the car, and pull it hard so it pulls out and falls onto the tyre,

 

can be easier with a helper at the front,

 

ke boxes are not to heavy, 2 people under the car should be able to pull it out onto a tyre fairly smoothly,

 

but be careful still!

As long as your not a little weedy kid so should be able to just lay under the car and lift it out!! One hand at the tailshaft end, one under the bellhousing, lift up a little and pull back.

K40's weigh bugger all, and I can normally just do the reverse of the above to re-fit. :lolcry: