when i put my foot down to take off she accelerates really slow for about 2 seconds then picks up. I noticed the accelerator cable is a bit slack but wouldnt think this would be a problem. Would a good carby clean help? Fuel pump? New plugs leads? All of the above? Just old? It only happens from standing start. I was prob gonna do all the afore mentioned things at some stage but if there is someone who has had the same problem and can narrow it down..

 

cheers guys.

Dead stock motor is it?

 

..and what type of gearbox?

Edited December 4, 200916 yr by altezzaclub

yeah totally as far as i know. and has a 4 speed in it. it was originally 5 speed but gear ratios are the same till 5th yeah? Its done a heap of k's but been well serviced(so the chick who sold me it said). And still peppy when driving, as much as a dead stock rolla motor can be. Just that initial 5-10 meters when in first from stationary, then kinda pops into GO mode.

is this every time you take off?, like from traffic lights and intersections, or just occasionally?

every time. i've tried using the clutch different thinking it may be a quirk but na. high rev's, low rev's, doesn't matter.

Start by checking all your ignition bits and bobs. (leads, plugs, points)

Timing could be a factor, maybe a slight leak from your vacuum advance hose?

Maybe the dizzy itself is a little gummed up, hard to say, start checking everything from the beginning and see how you go......

*Edit* Could be something with the jetting in the carby too, overactive accel pump, partially blocked jet, who knows, start with the easy stuff though.....

Edited December 4, 200916 yr by Toy-Yoda

yeah- I'd look for an air leak for one, or over-rich would make it bog down as well.

 

This should be an interesting one to solve...

cool cheers guys. if i find the problem ill let ya know for future reference. more than likely ill fix the problem somehow and not know what caused it but hey...

sounds like you just got a block in the jets in the carby.

 

id start by giving it a good go with carby cleaner. rev the guts out of it while you spray it into the carby. works a treat.

 

check your base timing too, should be around 10 degrees BTDC. pull the spark plugs and give them a go with a wire brush. also check your points too. the gap is 0.5mm i think, check the reference section. just a general tune up should clear your problems.

sweet as ive got a workshop manual floating around somewhere too....

i found two hoses off the carb blocked off with screws, could this be the prob? they are on the passenger side of the carb

 

nah they shouldne be a problem, have your tried giving it a trash around the block?

when i bought it i thrashed it from ipswich to sunny coast and it did it the whole way. I just hope it wont be one of those annoying gremlins....

check dwell, ignition timing (adjust to 15degrees) contact breaker condition, and dissy cap for arcing out

I have almost the same problem with my 4K-C powered KE18. The engine is out of a 84 KE70 and by the pic it looks like we have the same carb. I am 100% sure that all my ignition gear and settings are spot on. What I have narrowed it down to is the vacuum secondaries. I would assume that you have the same set up. I have a diaphram that open the secondaries and when you suck on this tube it leaks somewhat, meaning it takes more vacuum than normal to open them up, also means that essentially there is a vacuum leak in the system.

 

I tried (just for the hell of it) holding it open with a zip tie and took it for a burn around the block and it took off like a rocket every time with no bog down, but the pay off was the car more or less wouldn't idle.

 

I concluded that I'm gonna have to go see my local Toyota parts man and try to get a new one of these diaphrams, but I'm in no hurry, the car runs just fine excepting this small detail and it'll probably cost me more for this part than the whole engine cost me!!

 

You MAY have the same issue, worth having a look at it anyway.

 

By the way, those blocked off vacuum lines look like emissions gear, nothing really to worry about being gone, it does however look like there is no vacuum control valve on the dash pot, if you want it to work properly you'll need a control valve. You want it set up so that when there is little vacuum it is allowed to extend and then when there is lots of vacuum (under braking) it is only allowed to retact slowly. This will result in having a slightly higher idle for 2 secs or so before it drops back down to the regular idle speed.