Here is the T3 mounts up close just rough fitted with old 4A block. The mounts are AE71 rubbers. I need to deal with the lip on the crossmember the K series mounts sit on.

 

Tim

I don't get it, I wonder why mine sat so high, got a sump on it yet?

i hope these work out i'd rather buy these than use the ones i fabbed. the ones i make are a thicker steel but these look a lot nicer and more professional.

 

sam they look extremely close to mine so at a guess they'd probablt be fine for height.

got a sump on it yet?

 

 

I too would like to see the engine with the sump bolted on. How much clearance is there between the sump and the crossmember?

 

all the best

I am putting dibs on the fact that the sump will sit above the crossmember line

I would like to know how much room there is, as I am planning on puting a 7A engine in my KE35 and they have the extended sump thing on the bottom of the block then the little sump bit?

 

If it has enough room I would buy these as I am too lazy to make mine.

 

Hey Sam_Q have you gotten any further with your KE3* to 4AGE mounts but then if T3 has them (I'm just lazy and just want a quick fix)

 

thanks

after that clearence issue I lost interest. I also wonder about the demand, I say wait for the pics of this sump install and then make your choice from there. A 7A into a KE35 would be a great combo. The way things are going I will need to mass produce 7A RWD cooling kits instead of just two!

Edited August 15, 201016 yr by Sam_Q

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Edited October 16, 201015 yr by wde_bdy

$160 US! Wow thats expensive

KE30 to 55 mounts might be the same but from what I saw the KE70 ones are slightly further apart, I don't know why.

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Edited October 16, 201015 yr by wde_bdy

oh yes you can trust me on that one seeing I pulled the K engine out myself and I modify these crossmembers on a regular basis. Keep in mind the difference was only about 3mm per side, your rubbers would of taken that up easily

I don't want to reuse my original rubbers, I want to make sure I have the correct parallel 0 degrees of offset, from your picture it looks like the rubbers don't meet the crossmember flush its off a couple degrees or its just the way the picture looks.

 

I bought some casting compound from McMaster Carr that is a 60A hardness which is close to the consistency of car tire rubber. I want a thinner rubber mount so I get better torque response.

 

I'll post pics in my build thread and link to it from here when the compound arrives and I'm able to mock up the engine.

 

I still need to pull the alternator and modify the mount, its not bolt in ready for the blacktop. There are 2 indexing pins I'll need to drill the mount to allow the pins to recess into the mount. I'll post pics of this also. Its hard to get the point across in words. I'll link all of it up on my build page.

 

Thanks again for all your feedback guys I appreciate it,

 

Mike