ausca62 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hi all. I thought it was about time to start a Rolla Club Technical Build. My name is Paul and my car is a 1971 ke20. It is a budget race car, but a lot of fun. We had a good year in2009 winning my class, [sports Sedan up to 1600cc] and my youngest son winning Junior Hill climb Champion, at our club [Gippsland Car Club]. So I decided to give the old car a bit of a tidy up. My son Dave is an apprentice panel beater, so his job is the body while I will concentrate on the mechanical side. The car ran a 2T for 2009 but having 3 X 2TG motors in the shed at home I thought that would be the way to go. That’s where the drama’s started. I chose a 2tgeu block and crank with an 8222 head, but could not find any pistons. Thanks to boganae71, a Rolla club member from S.A. had an excellent set of 30th oversize ones that he posted off to me. Next I had the block decked and bored to suit the pistons, a new set of rings, the crank machined and new bearings. I had the head, purchased from gearbOx, a R/C member, machined and a mild port job. Last year while I was in Tassy on a fishing trip, I picked up a set of big cams and a gasket set from ke20rolla, also a R/C member. I then did a dummy assembly to check piston to valve clearance and found not enough clearance between the pistons and exhaust valves. Pulled the whole thing apart again and sent the pistons away to get fly cut. Got the pistons back today so will start re assembly soon. While all this has been going on my son started on the bodywork. I will post more when I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 If this is in the wrong spot, feel free to move it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 If this is in the wrong spot, feel free to move it. Looks great, and lots of good work happening. Carry on. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 Started to re assemble the motor today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 Ah- so if he's doing the body & you're doing the motor, who's doing the suspension?? Do you find the leaf rear end handles it OK? What sort of mods are in there? Love the pistons! They look like they're going to punch the head clean through the bonnet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 Ah- so if he's doing the body & you're doing the motor, who's doing the suspension?? Do you find the leaf rear end handles it OK? What sort of mods are in there? Suspension is a work in progress. Rear leaf spring setup works well. It is that low that the bump stop on the nose of the diff is only about 15mm from contact, so as soon as the springs start to wind up, the diff contacts the bump stop. this seems to elininate axel tramp. Also being a locked centre, gives good traction on take off and in cornering. I also have a K Mac stabilizer bar. In the future I am looking at making my own 4 link setup, but thats still a while away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 Ah- so if he's doing the body & you're doing the motor, who's doing the suspension?? As for the front suspension, I have made my own LCA's that are adjustable. They do not have to be removed to adjust them, it is all done on the car. With ke20's it is pointless puting adjustable strut tops on unless you intend to convert to coil overs because there is not enouig room in the towers to make a differance. With a track car, by adjusting camber from the LCA's also has the added advantage of giving you a wider track while also adding caster. The biggest problem is the sway bar no longer lines up with its mounting hole in the LCA. I have overcome this problem by modifying the sway bar. I cut the loop end off and then ground two flats on it. Then drilled a hole in it and used swaybar links off a Nissan Pulsar N13. Then I just welded a piece of angle to the LCA and jobs done. An added advantage of this is the fact that by shortening the sway bar, you remove some of the mechanical advantage, thus making the bar stiffer. If any one has any thoughts, feel free to put your 2 cents worth in. I am all for different opinions, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 Front and rear shocks are Koni adjustables and front springs are out of a Capri V6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robj Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 Nice! I've found that an early celica (think TA22, or RA23/28) swaybar fitted my KE2X. They are thicker at about 19mm, the one I'm running is 22mm, not 16.5 for the standard. Might help if you want it stiffer. However of course they are not the blade type. Rob J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 Nicely done! I did that on a Mini Cooper years ago using truck tie-rod ends, one end LH thread and one RH thread. You changed camber by loosening the clamps and turning the rod, just as you do. Have you machined a thread down the end of the castor rods? ..or will that interfere with the sway bar if you pull the strut forward? I suppse its no good getting too much front-end grip and having it oversteer everywhere! I love the exhaust clamps on the rear sway! Maximum fun, minimum cost! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 (edited) Have you machined a thread down the end of the castor rods? ..or will that interfere with the sway bar if you pull the strut forward? I suppse its no good getting too much front-end grip and having it oversteer everywhere! I diden't have to thread the caster rods because pushing out LCA's, shortens them anyway.I shortened the spacer between the rubbers to give a tighter fit and less movement. I am running 5 deg caster. As for oversteer, I LOVE oversteer. You can control oversteer with your right foot but understeer you are just a passenger. Edited February 26, 2010 by ausca62 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted February 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 Getting Closer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boganae71 Posted February 27, 2010 Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 Getting Closer awsome stuff mate glad to see the pistons go a good home myne is all running sweet now too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 awsome stuff mate glad to see the pistons go a good home myne is all running sweet now too Good to hear mate. Sorry I couldn't help you out with the valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 Time for a few picks of the bobywork. Its coming on slowly. This is the car at the end of the 2009 seasonStart work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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