ausca62 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Now its time to have a crack at the real motor. Remove rocker cover etc. Remove chain tensioner Before removing cam gears take note of cam timing. Because I'm getting old i find it easy to take a quick photo of things before I pull them apart so if I'm not sure I can go back and check. Stuff a rag down between the timing chain just in case you drop a washer or one of the dowls. Then remove the cams. Remove the cam followers but be careful to keep them in order and don't loose the shims. This is where I had my only problem. Working on a motor on a stand is not the same as a motor in a car. I had to modify the tool slightly as it did not clear the strut towers Away we go. BTW. (I rapt tape around the pipe to protect the cam bearings) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 It all worked well and would not be hard to make something similar to suit different motors. Hope this help somebody and if not it will give some people ideas. Now I can rev the ring out of it and make it go like it was supposed too Cheers Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 One thing I forgot. Springs, $90. Flat bar, $4. Total $94. Budget Racer................... ONE SET OF BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY DOUBLE VALVE SPRINGS TO SUIT THE TOYOTA 2T, 3T, 18R, 2TG, 3TGTEU & 18RG ENGINE'S. THESE VALVE SPRINGS ARE A MUST WHEN BUILDING A HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE OR EVEN SOME INSURANCE ON A STANDARD BUILD. These springs are manufactured to a strict quality standard to ensure that you get the best for your dollar. These springs come to you already scragged to save you time (scragging is a process where the spring is compressed to solid before checking loads and our springs are scragged individually to ensure each spring is to solid height before checking, unlike most that are scragged to height somewhere close to solid.) The spring wire is also double eddy current tested to a depth of 40 microns and any wire detected with flaws is sprayed, the coiling machine picks this up and rejects these sections. These springs have also been rattled tested on a specially designed machine which we can put a cam lobe into and run a complete set up (lifter, spring, retainers, push rod, rocker and valve) and check for harmonics. Add to this the fact that these springs are also designed on SRAMA, a computer program from the Institute of Spring Technologies, which gives us all stress and pound loadings from installed height to coil bind. All our springs are chrome silicon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae824ate Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Nice work, spring compressor is nifty. Should inspire many people. Double springs will add a piece of mind too. We got flooded, but not nearly as bad as some. Thanks, Luke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Oooo springs look nice. What are you revving it out to now? Recently got the 2TG tuned by Fours n More / Sleeka for 7000RPM on stock motor, so should be interesting when we get the dual springs in :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Oooo springs look nice. What are you revving it out to now? Recently got the 2TG tuned by Fours n More / Sleeka for 7000RPM on stock motor, so should be interesting when we get the dual springs in :D Hi mate, I will be setting the shift light to 7300 and want to limit the revs to 7500. What car are you running the 2tg in? and how mutch did you pay for the tune? Cheers Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Its a TE71 GT from Japan. Orginally EFI, but converted to Carby. I think it was around $1800 for about 3 weeks work. Fuel system, about 3 dyno sessions, carbies overhauled including jets etc, couple of engine seals, bushes fitted, air filters, and a few other little things. Unfortunately mine has a slight problem on cyclinder 4, but Brenton (Fours n More) did his magic to make it smooth as possible. Should be plenty safe at 7300 with the springs in Cheers Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) Budget priced rear swaybar upgrade. Hi guys, been a bit slack latley but I have upgraded my rear sway bar. I used the rear swaybar off a VR Commodore. It was an ezy fit and not expensive. Swaybar from the wreckers $10. (They arn't in big demand so they will just about give them away). I used Nissan Patrol front swaybar links ( $38 a pair at Repco) or you could get them from the wreckers and a couple of bits of angle. The bar actualy mounts foward and with a couple of bits of plate on the inside of the floor ( under the rear seat so they are not visable from the inside) the job is done. The mountings I will add more pics soon, Where to mount the angle etc. My camera batery has died. Edited March 27, 2011 by ausca62 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 The Commodore bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takumi86 Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 awesome build man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doogs Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Build is coming along well mate. Could you give me some specs on the Commodore swaybar please? Diameter/length between arms, length of arms? Cheers, Dougal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollalicious Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Nice build! I'm in Bairnsdale, saw that you were in Gippsland. Just saw your request for fibreglass info etc a couple of pages back. Frecheville Heaney Boatbuilders in Paynesville is by far the cheapest you will find (trade prices), its 10 minute drive for me but I have no idea exactly where you are. I have some experience depending where you are. or can put some advice up on traps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Build is coming along well mate. Could you give me some specs on the Commodore sway bar please? Diameter/length between arms, length of arms? Cheers, Dougal Hi Dougal, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. The bar is 750mm wide from eye to eye and the arms are 260mm long from pivot point to eye center. It is 19mm diameter.If you need any more info, or photo's of particular things let us know. Cheers man. Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Nice build! I'm in Bairnsdale, saw that you were in Gippsland. Just saw your request for fibreglass info etc a couple of pages back. Frecheville Heaney Boatbuilders in Paynesville is by far the cheapest you will find (trade prices), its 10 minute drive for me but I have no idea exactly where you are. I have some experience depending where you are. or can put some advice up on traps Hi Mitchell. Thanks for the info. My main concern is getting the flare stuck in the mould. I have a PVA based release agent But I am not sure if I need to use wax as well. I rang the manufacturer but they where useless. There answer was, "I'm not sure but you can if you want to" WTF....... I am near Warragul but our track is in Newbourgh near Morwell. Are you interested in doing them for me? Cheers mate. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doogs Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Thanks mate, will look into it some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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