Jump to content

Budget Racer


ausca62

Recommended Posts

Hi Mitchell. Thanks for the info. My main concern is getting the flare stuck in the mould. I have a PVA based release agent But I am not sure if I need to use wax as well. I rang the manufacturer but they where useless. There answer was, "I'm not sure but you can if you want to" WTF.......

I am near Warragul but our track is in Newbourgh near Morwell. Are you interested in doing them for me?

Cheers mate. Paul

As much as I would like to help, year 12 says NO. The wax is to prep the mould (kind of polishes, obviously the smoother the better, and has a film) and yes the PVA can be used as well but (to cover my ass test it first on small area as different brands could be different) so the manufacturers advice was about as good as mine :rolls:

This is all on you tube step by step. ^^testing on small area is always true, digital scales are good for mixing accurately, or syringes, and use masking tape to give you a nice area to ply it out of the mould (again covered on you tube)

If all fails which is highly unlikely get out the heat gun and it will soften- but again it depends on brands and type because some cure with heat!!

Anyone in the field has there one brand which they swear by and trust, but you have to do a combined amount of things wrong to mess it up :y:

Hope that was a little helpful

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Members dont see this ad

Hi Mitchell. Thanks for the info. My main concern is getting the flare stuck in the mould. I have a PVA based release agent But I am not sure if I need to use wax as well. I rang the manufacturer but they where useless. There answer was, "I'm not sure but you can if you want to" WTF.......

I am near Warragul but our track is in Newbourgh near Morwell. Are you interested in doing them for me?

Cheers mate. Paul

Hey mate if i was you I would use wax aswell you can never have to many release agents I used to make dashes and other conversion parts for hummers out of fibre glass and I always used wax and a PVC spray it just insures it will release with minimal effort

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate if i was you I would use wax aswell you can never have to many release agents I used to make dashes and other conversion parts for hummers out of fibre glass and I always used wax and a PVC spray it just insures it will release with minimal effort

thanks Brendan,

I went out and got some wax but again no instructions. can you tell me how you apply the wax. Is it just a case of applying with a rag or is there more to it.

 

Cheers man. Paul.

 

P.S. the product is called Nu - Cearawax Made by Huntsman Composites.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i wipe it on man then pva over the top

 

 

Thanks Phil,

I will give it a crack in a few weeks. I am racing on the 19th and 26th so it looks like next month could be the go. When you say wipe it on, I assume you mean with a rag? Then the PVA. do I also apply it with a rag or brush?

Cheers. Paul.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, been a while. I have new motovation. Last weekend I did a V8 Racecar drive day at Sandown (a Christmas preasent from my kids) and I relised that I haven't lost the bug. My poor old racer has been sitting there for the last six months and the only time some one goes near it is to stack some more shit on the roof. Time to get back onto it. I'm not getting any younger.

 

post-5916-0-00221100-1327633399_thumb.jpg

 

I went out to the shed and got a major supprise. My ars still fits into the race seat. It felt good to sit in it again. I turned on the battery isolater and then the ignition switch and to my supprise everything lit up. Next I hit the primary fuel pump switch and away it went. After 20 seconds to fill the swirl pot I hit the main fuelpump switch and the big Holley Blue wirred into life. Fuel pressure up to 5psi, a few pumps on the throttal, and hit the starter button. ...............Away she went. Now I'm realy pumped.

 

Where too from here. There is so much I have to do and I want it back on the track by August this year for her 41st birthday. The weak link in the car is the diff. It still runs the Corolla Borgy diff and although I have never broken an axel, I have done one centre. I am going to use a Skyline (R31) diff but that would mean that the rear brakes would be bigger than the fronts. My wife suggested I start from the front and work back, so thats what I am going to do.

 

Front brake upgrade

 

A while ago I purchased some brackets off caibs, (a rollaclub member from WA) But they didn't come with much info so I was flying blind. I knew they used Commodore calipers and Magna rotors but didn't know what model. I started with Vs Commodore calipers but they were to big. (I need to run 13" wheels because I use Formular Ford and Formula 3 tyres) I will try early Commodore ones next and see how I go. When I get it all worked out I will do an indepth guide on how to do them, including a detailed plan of the brackets so If anybody else wants to do the same conversion, the hard work will be done. If anybody has already done this conversion and can help with info, let me know. Also seeking info on R31 diff into KE20.

 

Cheers guys. Paul.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We used to get a Mini rear brake limiter from the wreckers & drill/tap the end of it. Then we would fit a bolt with a "T" piece welded to it in that hole.

 

When we wound it in it would push against the limiting spring, increasing the pressure that the rear brakes were fed. That way we could sit in the car and alter rear brake bias in a special stage.

 

So if your rear brakes are going to be too big, fit something like that where you can dial in the amount of pressure going to them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We used to get a Mini rear brake limiter from the wreckers & drill/tap the end of it. Then we would fit a bolt with a "T" piece welded to it in that hole.

 

When we wound it in it would push against the limiting spring, increasing the pressure that the rear brakes were fed. That way we could sit in the car and alter rear brake bias in a special stage.

 

So if your rear brakes are going to be too big, fit something like that where you can dial in the amount of pressure going to them.

 

 

Thanks again mate for your input. I am thinking of doing a twin master cylinder setup that has adjustable bias between the two, but this sounds like a good cheep alternative untill then. Cheers, Paul,

 

Thanks for the support Willis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Guys, back again. Well I got some VH Commodore calipers from the wreckers. They are the same size and offset as all commodore's from VB to VN so you could use any of these. There are a few different brands, Girlock, PBR etc. I have gone for the Girlock because they are a bit lighter.

 

 

 

These are the new mounting brackets for the calipers. I hope you can follow the diagram. Ifyou need any more info just ask me.

 

post-5916-0-06740500-1327809581_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-12254500-1327809602_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-06153900-1327809635_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-15524700-1327809652_thumb.jpg

 

Start by removing the old calipers. The old Sumitomo's were fine for Hillclimb's (a one lap dash) but when you start doing a few laps at Phillip Island or Sandown, you soon want more. I think the mounting for the drum brakes is the same so you could use this upgrade for drum brake cars aswell. {If some one could confirm that it would be good.} Remove the old brackets and bolt on the new ones.

 

post-5916-0-17869300-1327809803_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-35728400-1327809859_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-48602700-1327809882_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-50383800-1327809911_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-26165500-1327809931_thumb.jpg

 

Now to bolt on the new caliper and see if I can get the 13' wheel on.

 

post-5916-0-06898600-1327810124_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-43744700-1327810233_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-10347100-1327810157_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-21927000-1327810185_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-35142300-1327810281_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-00165300-1327810303_thumb.jpg

 

Better try both sets incase they are slightly different

 

post-5916-0-86545700-1327810364_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-91727200-1327810605_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-03912500-1327810417_thumb.jpg

 

All Good. There is about 5mm to 6mm clearance at the closest point, between caliper and wheel and a good preportion of the caliper is out of the wheel and in the air streem so will be good for cooling.

I got an old magna disc from the wreckers for $5.00 that I am going to use as a dummy, and if it all fits up ok, I will buy a set of new one's to use. The old disc diameter was 216mm and the new one's are 266mm so it should do the job.

Cheers for now. Paul.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Guys, I set up my dummy disc and all went well so I went on ebay to look for new rotors. DBA standard rotors were $70.00 delivered a pair or crossdrilled were $367 a pair. I couldn't justify spending an extra $297 for holes so I went for the standard one's and drilled them myself.

 

Here is a quick guide on how to do it.

 

post-5916-0-53124800-1328322106_thumb.jpg

 

I started with a blank disc and counted the cooling vents. Then worked out my pattern I wanted a hole in each vent and double up on every third hole. I then made a template that sat against the centre hub that I could use to mark my holes and then slide it around to the next set.

 

post-5916-0-65713500-1328322146_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-07642800-1328322198_thumb.jpg

 

Then it was just a matter of using a centre punch to mark out where to drill.

 

post-5916-0-11321200-1328322432_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-14620900-1328322442_thumb.jpg

 

Then drill your holes (through both sides) then using a countersink drill or a larger drill and countersink all the holes on both sides.

 

post-5916-0-19432500-1328322694_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-38802200-1328322718_thumb.jpg

 

And now the finnished product. I went for a spiral pattern and this is easly don by flipping over the template so the spiral goes the opposite direction. That way te disc's are directional as seen in the next pics.

 

post-5916-0-97099300-1328323036_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-27917600-1328323063_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-20193200-1328323087_thumb.jpg

 

There is a big difference between the old disc's and the new ones. Should stop very well.

 

post-5916-0-81659800-1328323273_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-17516500-1328323292_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-56743000-1328323302_thumb.jpg

 

post-5916-0-00382300-1328323338_thumb.jpg

 

I will have more when I get them mounted to the hub. Any questions, fell free. Cheers. Paul.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing mate! I'm also looking at upgrading brakes on the 20 and wanted the unlikely combo of 13'' wheels and vented rotors. This setup really helps me think of what options I have. I had previously wondered about using Magna rotors due to the size and low cost, this just confirms it is possible.

 

Thanks again for sharing,

 

Dougal

 

Edit: Just to clarify, you are still using KE20 hubs aren't you?

Edited by Doogs
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Dougal, sorry for the delay in replying. yes mate still use the KE20 hubs. Just need to redrill the new disc's to suit the mounting bolts from the hub. I will take a few pics when I get a chance and post them. Cheers mate. Paul.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...