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The Girl's Ke70


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Next up was The Cardboard Air Intake! I put up a post asking about working in cardboard, as it was the easiest thing to make a model with. Usually I'd go cut it out of steel or alloy and rivet it up, but this time I figured I'd go for the modern composite style!


This is what I needed to fit behind the grille-

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When we got the inch & 1/4 SUs the needles were too lean for the motor. They were size AAP, of the 300plus needles SU carbs can have, so I bought a pair of richer ABH needles from SU Midel in Sydney.


These have been running around town at 10.3L/100km, and are nearly always showing rich on the oxy sensors (except at idle of course!) and if I leaned them out the idle was too lean.


So I sat down and sanded the AAP needles thinner with some #400 wet 'n dry and a vernier caliper. I went down to Sydney & back yesterday, over the Blue Mountains (Bells Line of Road in the wet, both ways!) and through the hills, and at 100kph it did 525km at 7.1L/100km. Its only on the really steep bits on Bells that it is a pain now, where you need third gear, as the gap from 4th down to 3rd is too great, about 1000rpm. It hauls up most hills at 100 in 5th or 4th.


The needle data ends up like this- I subtracted the diameters from 1.000 just so the graph looks the right way up, but these are all in thousands of an inch, and 10thou either way doesn't matter. All the needles atart off about the same size at idle, and get richer at varying rates. The difference between AAP and ABH got out to 50thou, and I just wanted the modified needles in between.


So, who else has got SUs and wonders about power or fuel consumption?

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  • 1 month later...

Well, after asking about the play in the steering rack on here I went out & bought a rack end. Then rego inspection came up before I fitted it, and the guy checked the passenger's side, then the drivers side (which was the loose one) then went back to the passenger's again and said I better replace both of them. So I bought the other one and we fitted them yesterday. They were shorter in contruction than the originals, so setting the threads the same gave an inch of toe-out, and it was out with the tape-measure for an alignment.


We marked the tyres at 165mm off the ground with White-out pen, the height a tape can clear under the car, then took a piece of alloy section each and measured front and back of the wheels. She set them to 2mm toe-in, but we can sort that later at a wheel alignment shop. The car feels much more attached to the road through the steering now, not so floaty, a lot nicer! A tape over the rear wheels in the same manner showed we have 12mm wider track at the front than the rear. That will be the Corona LCAs.


I took it down to Sydney for a day and over the 500km it ran at 6.9L/100km, so the SUs are running true to form- Ok around town at 10L/100km, but cheap to run on open-road cruise at 100kph. Now I can get back to that cold-air tube and airbox vent!

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A tape over the rear wheels in the same manner showed we have 12mm wider track at the front than the rear. That will be the Corona LCAs.


I've got gregory's manuals for the ke20 and ke55 and both have a wider front track than rear as standard. My assumption is that it increases the handling capabilites.

I'd assume it would be the same for a ke70...

Edited by GJM85
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In theory, rear track 1335, front 1320 listed as KE70 specs-




My Gregorys doesn't even list track, its the biggest piece of shit book I've come across!


But anyway, I also reckon a wider front track improves handlng and the Corona LCAs do that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, wheel alignment done- Now, this is on the springs from the manual g'box donor car, and they are cut to a free height of..


Rear, from 368mm down to 342mm, -26mm or a coil and a half.


Front, from 363mm down to 335mm, -28mm, but that's only one coil.


This puts both front and rear wheel arches 600mm above the ground.


With Corona LCAs that gives negative camber of -18minutes, or 1/3 of a degree.


Our tape measure toe was -0.4mm, which would have been hard to measure on a 5m tape! Its now 2.2mm in. The castor stayed at 3deg each side.


Interesting enough the rear axle toes out 0.8mm, which is either the error in the wheel alignment gear or the error in their diff building...


Doesn't feel any different to drive, handles just great!

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  • 5 weeks later...

OK, the cardboard intake works superbly.. too superbly at high speed, where it leans the carbs out!!


We disconnected the intake tube in Wyalong, moved it away from the airbox a bit and taped it into place with the odd spanner... A couple of tries and we knew what size hole released the pressure at 100kph.


Then I cut a hole in the top of the airbox and put a plastic flap over it. It closes below 60kph (in theory!) and the motor sucks in cold air, and can flap up at 100kph to let out excess pressure.

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Edited by altezzaclub
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It still had a leaning effect, which didn't worry me as I am using needles that were made for a 1000cc Austin Healey Sprite and I've sanded the mid-range to get it as rich as I wanted. I'd never touched the top end, I knew it leaned out above 4000rpm but I wasn't sure what part of the needle was working there. So I took an old webcam my son had tossed, and an old laptop we have, and went out to the hill coming in from Dubbo.


In the photo the hill goes up a long constant grade that the Rolla will just hold 100kph on if you start at that speed. There is no way it will accelerate up there. Where the blue line is there is a road to left which is the end of our climbing tests, and the road undulates a bit to the green line, where there is a traffic island we turn left at.


So we get a long hard climb, a cruise up and down, an island to stop at and then accelerate away from.

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The video starts at idle, you can see the slide moving up and down with the grumpy cam, moves off through 1st and 2nd, and I booted it when in 3rd at about 20seconds. That's the only time the throttle plate is horizontal. The mist around the needle is raw fuel being sucked up out of the jet.


You can also see the giant torque of the 4K tilting the motor away fom the camera! laugh.gif The slide drops down & up as we change gear. In 4th you can see the throttle plate isn't wide open as it holds 100kph, then it slams shut as I lift off and flips up each time I blip the throttle to change down at that side road where it stops. The piston never quite goes right up, which is how the HS2 carbs were made.


No mighty roar I'm afraid, I think that's why the son threw the camera out...


Nope- Imageshack threw it away.. sorry about that.

Edited by altezzaclub
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Let me know if that doesn't work- I've never used this high-faluting technology so I don't have a video editor & I don't know the best way to upload it.


Anyway- No big surprises there, so I video'd the FMD on the same road. It starts off with my spare blue T-shirt hanging over it so its dark enough for the webcam to see it, and while its idling I reach under it and flip the switch from one carb to the other. They both run sort-of 14 down to 17 on idle. As I drive away it goes richer, then shoots down to lean as I change gear, and up the hill it is constant around 13-13.5 as the load is steady. I'm afraid the T-shirt makes dramatic entrances as I hit it with the gearlever! laugh.gif Over the top I kept driving, and it wanders up and down from 14 to leaner as we drive over the undulating part of the hill where there is no load. It goes down to sit around 16-17 idle at the traffic island before going back up as I accelerate away.


Same Imageskank problem

Edited by altezzaclub
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