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The Girl's Ke70


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Ouch- That ones 17meg! At 50seconds you can see the delay in the oxy sensors as the T-shirt moves when I change gear but it is a second later that the FMD suddenly goes lean. I've got used to reading it a bit delayed from what is happening.


Anyway, next was the airbox flap to see what that did. A change of camera mount was called for, and I outlined the corner of the plastic flap in white so it stood out. These results stunned me! It starts from the traffic island as I turn right onto the undulating bit and head for the big downhill, so it works up to cruising in 4th until I lift off going downhill. You can see each gearchange up from 2nd, and on cruise its perfectly balanced.


Seeing I was watching it with my jaw dropping open I hit the throttle a couple of times going down just to see what the motor would suck and it suddenly slams shut for a moment.


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Edited by altezzaclub
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Here's the return run up the hill just as the others were done. Its idling and sucked down until the motor tilts and I drive off. You can see each gearchange again, and it is just lifting at 100kph with the throttle open. The moment I lift off the flap flies up.


So, what to learn-


The needles need sanding at the very bottom to make them richer under power at 4000rpm+.


The slides can be modified to make them go right up and gain a zillionth of a KW.


The hole in the airbox could be larger to help stop it leaning out on over-run.


The plastic flap could be heavier without causing any real drama as the heat distorts it slightly and there is plenty of air pressure under it!


The intake tube could be closed off a touch more, although 100kph is pretty good as the flap doesn't really lift.


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Edited by altezzaclub
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I've just had the airbox cover off to cut the flap hole bigger, and I took the opportunity to lift the slide right up with a screwdriver and mark the bottom of the needle with a felt-tip.


So a couple of mm below that mark is where the needle lets fuel past the jet at full throttle... and surprisingly enough it is NOWHERE near the bottom of the needle. Full throttle mixture is controlled by station 8, and all the needle below this does absolutely nothing! I've put it beside a screen capture from that video yesterday. Obvously these needles are used in all the SUs up to 2" throat!


Now, which needles shall I hit with the hacksaw!! :laff:

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A couple of runs with a larger hole in the airbox have shown the leaning out problem is solved, it hauls 5000rpm or runs at 120kph without leaning out. I'll tidy up the black tape and leave the intake like it is now. If I can get a video editing program to d'load I'll shorten up those videos I posted, and do another run with the new flap.


Next up.. electronic dizzy, and I want to slow down the richening around town as I boot it. So if I press the throttle down at say a medium rate I don't want it going as rich as it does when I push it down hard. First up, mix the Johnson's Baby Oil 50:50 with turps, if that doesn't do it run plain turps in the dashpot, and if it still delays it too much then I'll start with little modifications to the shock absorber valve on the dashpot piston.

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hey alltezaclub


i have one of those jaycar afr meters and i was wondering how you hook up the o2 sensor to the display?


the sensor i have is out of my old mans NA fairlane, and it has 3 wires coming from the sensor. It has 2 black wires and one white.


I'm thinking that the white wire is the sgnal wire to give the 5v output and one of the black wire is 12v and the other a ground wire.


Any ideas?



I like the air box around the su's, looks good

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I'd guess the same, white for signal others for heater. What do Ford forums say?? The output will only be 1V max, and you can't afford to do some funny things like stick an ohm-meter on the sensor if it puts out more than that.


The airbox is pretty agricultural but it hides a full size air filter and a set of ram tubes, so I couldn't make it smaller... and I still run the PCV system in it too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A day or two back I fitted an electronic dizzy. It came via Twinky, (thankyou very much!) one of KEmotorsports units. I wired both wires to the coil, bolting one to the original dizzy wire so I could always swap back. I don't mind having a 12v live bolt hanging in the engine bay, maybe I'll fix it later!


It started straight away, but when I drove away it had lost it's sparkle and felt very flat low down. I was taking it over 3000 before it started to move, so I figured it was not advancing. It took quite some thinking before I found the vac advance delay valve the mechanic had fitted when he dyno'd the car initially. Once I ran a drill through the middle of that things improved. I reset the plug gaps to 38thou and stuck a few more degrees on the timing.


I don't know why the stock dizzy ran OK with that valve, I suppose the advance curves and the vac units are different. There is scope for more tuning there.


Today I noticed it handles slow 3rd gear intersections when cold much better, no hesitation or misfiring, and generally runs cleaner low down.


For the SU guys, I've been thinning the dashpot oil down to try and stop it running rich on accelerator/cruise, and had gone from Johnson's Baby oil (thinner than ATF) to 50:50 baby oil & turps... The other day I took the springs out and found it ran fine, just on 14.7 with a constant throttle around town, but leaned out hard as revs increased! So, the springs are more important than the dashpots in determining acceleration/ cruise mixture. The dashpot's function is over very quickly, only a second or so. Now I want lighter springs!

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Ported Felix, on one SU carb. I've been at it today for a quick timing light curve shows 18-20deg up to 3000rpm with no vacuum line, and with a vac on it kicks off at 18deg 1000rpm, 1500rpm, then hits 20deg at 2000, 25deg at 2500 and 30deg at 3000.


I fitted the hose while it was at 2000rpm and you could see the timing jump 5deg. I can check manifold vac effects over the weekend, and also grab Rob's vacuum guage to check what the SU port does.


I'm just about to mark the pulley carefully and re-do the curve, as I had to "measure by eye" the degrees over 20.... Once I have it pinned down I'll put up a post and have a think about it.

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OK, I marked the pulley out to 40deg... not enough it seems! :o


I was running with 18deg static, having just added advance w/o reading it out on the road yesterday, so the first measurements went off scale.


Then I knocked it back to 15deg, read the advance and have subtracted 7deg off all the readings as I've taken it back to 8deg now.

(and it feels a bit flat for sure)


This is sitting in the driveway, so it doesn't count throttle demand just empty revs. I'm sure 3500rpm going up a hill has a different vac curve. The 4000rpm reading I judged to be 43deg, as it was 50deg at the time on 15deg static!


You can see the vac adds more advance the higher the revs get. I'm wondering if the SU port works like any other carb, or does it have a different effect with the floating piston and keeps adding vacuum. To get 3500rpm in neutral wouldn't open the piston very high. It certainly doesn't mind lots of static advance, maybe a bit of the 2500ft altitude and the ground cam, but it would be a worry going up a hill foot flat at 110kph.


I'll ask everyone when I've though some more.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well- The vac guage showed that empty revs do not tell you anything about vac advance!!


Once we were driving the vac guage (on the manifold) showed around 12"mercury at idle, dropping to zero on acceleration, and maybe coming back to 5 to 10 for cruise. That is a very low vac signal for the dizzy, the Pintara has 18" at idle and Rob reckons his VK Commy has 30 odd!


So the piles of advance at higher revs were just a product of high air flow at tiny throttle openings. It takes almost no throttle to run up 3000rpm in the garage, so the manifold vac stays high and adds 10deg to the timing. On the open road it needs a greater throttle opening to get to 3000rpm, so the manifold vacuum is much less.


Lesson learnt, all timing shall be done with vac disconnected! (it also showed that my PCV works well and shuts off at idle, like it should!)

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  • 2 months later...

Back again! My two week holiday in NZ for Mum' birthday turned into two months as the roof needed painting and few other jobs had to be done.


Was loaned an AE95, originally my Aunt's & when she died my brother got it, back around 2000. Its been passed around his three daughters for 250,000km, never touched except for added dents front & rear. Ran fine, a bit smoky, but was fine going Rotorua to Auckland and back every weekend.


Funny spot was coming back to Aussie and driving the girl's KE70 from Sydney up to Orange. I stepped from a smooth and floppy auto FWD into a hard and direct manual RWD, talk about chalk and cheese!! ..and it was raining over Bells Line of Road, and dark! They both did trips OK, at about 7 to 7.5L/100km, but in entirely different styles.


Battery died while I was away & big sister hollered for a Marshall for me.... $180 later.... :(

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